Cam question for 2007 commonrail
#1
Cam question for 2007 commonrail
i saw a post that said
"Also an offroad use cam with NON-IN-CYLINDER-EGR-DURATION-OVERLAP changes the higher rpm sound too but it will affect your emissions." This was in reference to common rail exhaust note
Is it possible to swap a pre 04.5 cam into our later CR engines? Or is it better to go with an aftermarket shaft?
"Also an offroad use cam with NON-IN-CYLINDER-EGR-DURATION-OVERLAP changes the higher rpm sound too but it will affect your emissions." This was in reference to common rail exhaust note
Is it possible to swap a pre 04.5 cam into our later CR engines? Or is it better to go with an aftermarket shaft?
#2
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Basically what they are saying is that going with the aftermarket cam can cause your truck not to pass an emissions test since there are emission related features designed into the cam on ALL common rail engines.
To answer your question:
Yeah, an 03 cam would work in an 04.5 but you would be wasting your time with little or no benefit as the cams might in fact be the same or very similar.
I would only recommend an aftermarket cam like the Helix 2 if you go through the pain of swapping a camshaft.
To answer your question:
Yeah, an 03 cam would work in an 04.5 but you would be wasting your time with little or no benefit as the cams might in fact be the same or very similar.
I would only recommend an aftermarket cam like the Helix 2 if you go through the pain of swapping a camshaft.
#3
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dont mess with cams. if you dont like your factory 325 HP then get a chip. chips change timing, pressure, timing curve etc...all a guy needs. If we need more than 1000 hp then lets ask the question"Why not put a C15 in a dodge 3500 frame?"
#4
how can a chip change the valve timing?
im not after more power, i want efficiency
I just spent alot of time searching around on here and i found all the answers i need...looks like im going with a cam from Don M
Anyone have some info or tips on a cam swap in these trucks?
I have built a few big block fords and a small block chevy soo i have a decent amount of experiance..
My last BBF i built went into my rockcrawler....472ci 12.2:1 compression running on propane. Forged rods, pistons, aluminum heads custom ground solid cam etc etc....she runs nicely =)
im not after more power, i want efficiency
I just spent alot of time searching around on here and i found all the answers i need...looks like im going with a cam from Don M
Anyone have some info or tips on a cam swap in these trucks?
I have built a few big block fords and a small block chevy soo i have a decent amount of experiance..
My last BBF i built went into my rockcrawler....472ci 12.2:1 compression running on propane. Forged rods, pistons, aluminum heads custom ground solid cam etc etc....she runs nicely =)
#5
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I plan on installing mine myself when it arrives. I was told that when you remove the radiator and intercooler to get to the cam, you notch the sub frame so it will slide straight out, and it does just that, you pull it out. then, you have to remove your gear and press it on to the new cam, then bolt it down if thats the one you ordered. I too have built a few gassers before and it doesn't seem too hard to tackle.
#7
I heard instead of notching the crossmember you can jack the motor up a few inches???
I know a computer cant change valve timing...i was responding to Sallyman's remark
I dont have a shop manual and i havent had a cummins apart...
what all has to come off the engine? harmonic balancer? Water pump and timing cover? What is done about the tappets? I read somewhere they go in from the bottom?
Do i need valve springs? I dont want any more power than my smarty jr gives me...
I know a computer cant change valve timing...i was responding to Sallyman's remark
I dont have a shop manual and i havent had a cummins apart...
what all has to come off the engine? harmonic balancer? Water pump and timing cover? What is done about the tappets? I read somewhere they go in from the bottom?
Do i need valve springs? I dont want any more power than my smarty jr gives me...
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#8
a cam is gonna help lower your egt's ( not a lot ) and help with fuel mileage. It's not a easy job to do and yes, you need to pull most of the front end off to do it. You also will have to deal with the tappets which means you'll need to get the chopsticks out.
If you're doing the cam then it's a good idea to do the springs too. Then you have the valve seats to worry about. With tighter springs they're going to be slapping closed a lot harder and you could drop one or more. It's a good idea to install oversized seats if you're going as far as a cam with springs. You don't have to... just a good idea.
I wouldn't expect a whole lot of difference if that's all you do. Programming is the key to mileage and the Jr. isn't adjustable enough to accomplish that if you want more than it's preset settings.
If you're doing the cam then it's a good idea to do the springs too. Then you have the valve seats to worry about. With tighter springs they're going to be slapping closed a lot harder and you could drop one or more. It's a good idea to install oversized seats if you're going as far as a cam with springs. You don't have to... just a good idea.
I wouldn't expect a whole lot of difference if that's all you do. Programming is the key to mileage and the Jr. isn't adjustable enough to accomplish that if you want more than it's preset settings.
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