built tranny over heating
09-15-2008, 11:30 PM
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built tranny over heating
my trans runs about 180 most of the time.then i tow with it, its about 210 220 most of the time.twice now on step long up hill climbs my gauge has maxed out.passed 250.trans light has came on both times.rpm were about 2000 to 2500 both times.any thougt on where my prob is.what are others temps will towing.
09-16-2008, 06:17 AM
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built tranmissions by nature run hotter than a stock one. Unless you had the VB built for towing, you're likely running too high of line pressure. I would talk to Goerend to see if there's something he can do for you, 250F is way too high
Talk to him about the need for a lock up controller too, that may help
Talk to him about the need for a lock up controller too, that may help
09-16-2008, 01:35 PM
#5
my trans runs about 180 most of the time.then i tow with it, its about 210 220 most of the time.twice now on step long up hill climbs my gauge has maxed out.passed 250.trans light has came on both times.rpm were about 2000 to 2500 both times.any thougt on where my prob is.what are others temps will towing.
The temps should 180-200, stock or built trans, as long as the TC is locked and there are no other problems. The temps you are seeing indicate the TC is unlocked or you have a major problem in gear train of the trans. Removing the check ball will help with temp spikes and give better lube flow. Start with check ball removal and a lockup switch so you can make sure the TC is locking, then chekc your temps again.
Saying a built trans runs hotter is just ignoring the issues, if anything it will run cooler in most cases as it shifts and locks better and holds it. With a tighter converter the only time you will see a difference in temps is fluid coupling, ie TC unlocked, and that should be minimal as it will spend less time in fluid coupling therefore generating less heat. If this is not the case there is a problem somewhere.
09-16-2008, 01:41 PM
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Did you have OD locked out? Was the TC locked?
The temps should 180-200, stock or built trans, as long as the TC is locked and there are no other problems. The temps you are seeing indicate the TC is unlocked or you have a major problem in gear train of the trans. Removing the check ball will help with temp spikes and give better lube flow. Start with check ball removal and a lockup switch so you can make sure the TC is locking, then chekc your temps again.
Saying a built trans runs hotter is just ignoring the issues, if anything it will run cooler in most cases as it shifts and locks better and holds it. With a tighter converter the only time you will see a difference in temps is fluid coupling, ie TC unlocked, and that should be minimal as it will spend less time in fluid coupling therefore generating less heat. If this is not the case there is a problem somewhere.
The temps should 180-200, stock or built trans, as long as the TC is locked and there are no other problems. The temps you are seeing indicate the TC is unlocked or you have a major problem in gear train of the trans. Removing the check ball will help with temp spikes and give better lube flow. Start with check ball removal and a lockup switch so you can make sure the TC is locking, then chekc your temps again.
Saying a built trans runs hotter is just ignoring the issues, if anything it will run cooler in most cases as it shifts and locks better and holds it. With a tighter converter the only time you will see a difference in temps is fluid coupling, ie TC unlocked, and that should be minimal as it will spend less time in fluid coupling therefore generating less heat. If this is not the case there is a problem somewhere.
09-16-2008, 01:57 PM
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The fact they run hotter is not only from the horses mouth, it's something I saw happen to mine trans. It doesn't run a lot hotter but, I've gone from never seeing over 170 to running 180 to 190. Higher line pressure will obviously make it hotter with a well built VB would have
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09-16-2008, 03:35 PM
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09-16-2008, 04:40 PM
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Just my $.02 worth....
How about a simple check before tearing into it....hows the
fluid level? Too much fluid will cause the tranny to run hotter then normal. Check it out, get tranny up to operating temp, park it then go through each gear including reverse and neutral. Then set parking brake and put tranny in neutral check level. Even a level slightly over the full mark may cause higher temps. And of course do this on level ground. Hopefully its just a case of too much fluid?
How about a simple check before tearing into it....hows the
fluid level? Too much fluid will cause the tranny to run hotter then normal. Check it out, get tranny up to operating temp, park it then go through each gear including reverse and neutral. Then set parking brake and put tranny in neutral check level. Even a level slightly over the full mark may cause higher temps. And of course do this on level ground. Hopefully its just a case of too much fluid?
09-16-2008, 05:28 PM
#10
The fact they run hotter is not only from the horses mouth, it's something I saw happen to mine trans. It doesn't run a lot hotter but, I've gone from never seeing over 170 to running 180 to 190. Higher line pressure will obviously make it hotter with a well built VB would have
, a 10% variation could be better grounding of the probe or numerous other nuances. You really can't even consider that as you were a bit low anyway.Mine has run 140 to 190 degrees in ambient temps from 0 F to 110 F, empty or loaded with 10k from mile 1 with a stock trans. With a built trans, tighter TC, built VB, more clutches, and twice the line pressure of stock, etc, etc, it has NOT varied. I still cannot break 190, TC locked, 10k load, unless I find the steepest slopes on the hottest day and just push it up and down it constantly, and then it will barely break 200 degrees. The only way to drive the temps higher is a lot of stop and go in unlocked TC conditions or brake standing it, THEN the 300 degree gauge is in danger of pegging if one is not careful.
What the OP is seeing is waaayyyy out of the norm for a built or stock trans. There is a problem or something not functioning correctly to read those temps.
09-16-2008, 05:39 PM
#11
Just my $.02 worth....
How about a simple check before tearing into it....hows the
fluid level? Too much fluid will cause the tranny to run hotter then normal. Check it out, get tranny up to operating temp, park it then go through each gear including reverse and neutral. Then set parking brake and put tranny in neutral check level. Even a level slightly over the full mark may cause higher temps. And of course do this on level ground. Hopefully its just a case of too much fluid?
How about a simple check before tearing into it....hows the
fluid level? Too much fluid will cause the tranny to run hotter then normal. Check it out, get tranny up to operating temp, park it then go through each gear including reverse and neutral. Then set parking brake and put tranny in neutral check level. Even a level slightly over the full mark may cause higher temps. And of course do this on level ground. Hopefully its just a case of too much fluid?
FYI, its normal and even reccomended by some builders to run these transmission 1-2 quarts over full for additional capacity. As long as you are not foaming it and slopping it out the vent, which is rather obvious, there have been no observed effects.
09-16-2008, 06:02 PM
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Care to explain just how that would effect temp??? I typically run 1 to 1.5 over full hot and see what my temps do.
FYI, its normal and even reccomended by some builders to run these transmission 1-2 quarts over full for additional capacity. As long as you are not foaming it and slopping it out the vent, which is rather obvious, there have been no observed effects.
FYI, its normal and even reccomended by some builders to run these transmission 1-2 quarts over full for additional capacity. As long as you are not foaming it and slopping it out the vent, which is rather obvious, there have been no observed effects.
09-16-2008, 09:35 PM
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i think so because i was running in high rpm with the od locked out,thats what tow haul mode dose on my truck.just driving around town or through the hills with my bobcat the trans runs 210-220 useually.
09-17-2008, 07:47 AM
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Without trearing it apart... you can start it and try reverse right away. If it drives ok... the ball is there holding fluid in the tranny overnight.
No check ball means fluid drains overnight and tranny clutches will not grab smoothly till fluid gets back up to moving parts (approx. 30 sec.).
Not a recommended test but shouldn't hurt anything trying it once.
I do a 60 sec warmup every morning. Good idea for any engine but required on a built tranny with no check ball.
RJ
No check ball means fluid drains overnight and tranny clutches will not grab smoothly till fluid gets back up to moving parts (approx. 30 sec.).
Not a recommended test but shouldn't hurt anything trying it once.
I do a 60 sec warmup every morning. Good idea for any engine but required on a built tranny with no check ball.
RJ