I personally went for a moderate HTB2 62/12 and could not be happier. Sure I could have gone with a bigger turbo or twins, huge injectors, stacked boxes, and other mods but I need a reliable, daily driver, that can tow heavy loads without spending a small fortune. I'm not sled pulling or drag racing so my auto signature fits my requirements and pocketbook nicely. Just remember what do you wish your truck to do more than 51% of the time and build from there, IMHO. If you have excessive cash on hand, I will swear that I am a non-profit charitable organization that accepts tax-deductible donations and would appreciate any and all contributions for my SBC setup.

L8r,...........dogger

 

well i guess you didn't read my post very well. i said dusty hawk at HTS ran a 13.01 with a stock turbo. the best i ran with my stock turbo was 13.55. even if i ran 13.0 with the stock turbo id still change it out. its the same reason you have a b2 in the closet. never fast enough, i guess im stupid.

 

Dude all the info you need is in this thread. Make up your mind, there are some really good points here and some bad ones. It all comes down to realibility, and how safe you feel, and how deep your pockets are. Think ahead so you dont end up wasting money. My second mod on my 99 CTD after the drag comp was a $5K Billet DTT and I never once questioned its realibility and held up to all of my abuse of adding 200HP injectors and B1/b2 and 20psi 4X4 launches. I actually ran around for a year with Mach 5 injectors and the stock turbo. The turbo got hot when I raced but it was very controlable even when towing 10K.

So do what you want. You will learn either way, one way will cost you more though.

 

Whatever happened to the turbo topic? This one meandered off coarse just a bit....

 

Ya your right I keep trying to reply on this thread but I get confused everytime I try to, like building a 13 sec truck with a Holset whatever. There are alot of hairs being split.

 

Apparently you didnt read mine very well, I didn't ask why you kept your stock turbo when your running 13.00's, I asked why you changed it when it was capable of running one. I never said you ran it. Your the one that said someone did it with a stock turbo so i asked.

 

Viking,

If I read your thread starter right, price seems to be the most important aspect of your decision as it is the first point. A single turbo would be most cost effective and many are direct bolt ups. It sounds like this will be a daily driver but you wish to drag race at the strip. The majority of vehicles you will run into on the street will be pretty much stock so a lightly BOMB-ed truck will probably win more than lose. At the drag strip you are looking at many modified trucks and some highly modified. If you want to win every race at the track you better see if the federal gov't will back you because you are going to need money comparable to space shuttle mission. If you are bracket racing then consistency is the most important aspect.

It all comes down to desire, design, and dollars. Good luck.

L8r,..........dogger

 

Daily driver and occasional drap strip, but manily my races will be street or highway. I really can care less about bracket racing.....etc, thats what my drag ashpalt snowmobile is for. Just looking for something more power, but nothing to extreme, when you say the most turbos are direct bolt-ons, meaning it will just take minutes to install. Swap the stock for the bigger turbo and thats it? Everything else will fit right in? Now I know that a bigger exhaust doesnt mean anything unless you're pushing a lot of power, but I still want to add a 5" straight pipe, how would that work for the turbo? Our downpipes are 4" stock correct and the turbo outlet is 4" im guessing, how would the 5" work? Since I am looking to get a TST,new turbo and some trans upgrades so I can be somewhere in the mid 13s or so, would the bigger 5" be even worth it at all? Or would the 4" still be good? Another words, would the 5" make any performance difference at all besides sound and looks?

 

Im just curioius why cost is an issue when your running a 600HP Cobra and a Beemer, not to mention that your first car was new when you got it (if i did my math right), and you have one of those hi dollar drag snowmobiles, seems like cost is the least of your worries. Back on topic A 5inch exhaust might make cooler EGTS but probably wont add enough HP to even worry about it.

 

The mods in my signature put me low 13s(13.2s 1/4). I race at the track only and otherwise this is my daily driver and only vehicle at the moment. Over two years old and 50,000+ miles. Other than the 6k in the TC/trans everything else is bolt on or plug in and the prices for all the mods were normally in line with best deals at the time. Mine has seen over 150 hard 4x4 launches at the track. It has never been down and (knock, knock, knock on wood) I have not broken anything to date. Don't cheap the things necessary to get to your desired level what ever that is, unless you can afford the down time and double RR costs in the future. Just my .02.

 

I guess I am used to spending money on cars that will run 10s and 11s. My truck isnt that cheap to make go fast(like my cobra). It just a personal thing I have to get used to thats. I hated the fact that I need like $3-4k for a nice built trans when I have had the cobra, all I had to worry about was a clutch that would cost under $1k

 

Leave the truck completely stock. You will live longer.

 

Viking,

If by a few minutes you mean 180+/- minutes depending on your tools and how many other add-ons you need to work around. I think AK RAM holds the world's record for a swap. My HTB2 was a direct bolt on took me about 3 1/2 hours to do it. All my components that were on the stock turbo hooked up to the new turbo only requiring me to clock the intake side of the new turbo a few degrees and pull the exhaust back about 1 inch with a come-along. Since I have an 03 my down pipe is 3.5 but I'm going to upgrade to a 4 inch, but then I have pretty good restriction at the turbo exhaust brake. Since I tow heavy I would not be without the exhaust brake. The 4 inch is probably sufficient unless you go with the twin setup and larger injectors. You could always delete the muffler first which would be low cost and maybe give the tone you want. Again good luck.

L8r,.............dogger

 

who makes that turbo? Gotta link?

 

Ok, I normally do not post in these but, after reading 4 or 5 pages of it I am shocked at an answer that NO ONE seems to have mentioned?

Turbo in a Bottle!

Seems that it is pretty darn easy to get this guy what he wants. He wants to drag (street) race. He wants to run 12's so that he can anihilate most of the street ricers. Now he is also on somewhat of a budget. We know he can afford most of the things, but that extra 1500-2000 for twins is stopping the show.

So here is the formula.

Pick your choice of an electronic "Stack" TST+EZ or whatever it is.
Add:
1 Intake
1 Built Tranny
1 Set of Gauges
1 4" Exuast minus the downpipe
1 Turbo of choice the 64/12 seems perfect for what he wants
1 Nitrous Kit

Bam, 12 seconds and 650+hp. All bolt on, no spooling issues etc.

I cannot believe more people do not run the bottle. Is there a holier than thou approach to all #2? Sure it is cool until the guy you are racing hits the go fast button.

Now as others have said there are various ways to get where you want to go, and pro's and cons to each.

For what the original poster wants I cannot imagine a better way to go, or a cheaper way to get there.


Quad