Best way to launch a 6 speed
#1
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Best way to launch a 6 speed
I know this question has been asked, but the typical answer doesnt seem to work for me. I cant build much boost witht the silverbullet at the line only 1 or 2 psi. What would be the best way to get off the line with out bogging first. The 35 inch tires and 66 turbo dont work so well together at first. Would an early stage of n2o help? Maybe launch in first and shift to third next? Im open to anything. Oh and Im running a single disk clutch so I dont want to use it it load the motor.
#2
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When you figure it out... let me know also.
Last Fall, I welded my disc to the flywheel trying a 3rd slightly boosted launch (8-10 psi) I got under the truck with a big screw driver and hammer to free it up.
I dont have a 66 but I have found revving the engine from 2500-3k and trying to time the lights to the boost with a 2nd gear launch provided the best 60' times for me. ( I could usually get 10 PSI or so) I think any use of 1st would put you further behind. If you have the extra cash, give her a big ol' shot of nitrous out of the hole and see what happens. I have heard mixed reviews but all seem to benefit from it to some extent.
Last Fall, I welded my disc to the flywheel trying a 3rd slightly boosted launch (8-10 psi) I got under the truck with a big screw driver and hammer to free it up.
I dont have a 66 but I have found revving the engine from 2500-3k and trying to time the lights to the boost with a 2nd gear launch provided the best 60' times for me. ( I could usually get 10 PSI or so) I think any use of 1st would put you further behind. If you have the extra cash, give her a big ol' shot of nitrous out of the hole and see what happens. I have heard mixed reviews but all seem to benefit from it to some extent.
#5
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Problem is single disks clutches aren't really the ticket for any kind of boosted launches. If you do it, practice caution. I agree 2nd is probably the safest to launch on a single disk.
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I may just have to live with the bog at the line. Maybe Ill try throwing some stock tires on when I head to the track.
I was thinking a little n2o would help. When you use n2o at the line do you inject small amounts constantly when your staging, or does it come on strong as soon as you drop the clutch and go wide open?
I was thinking a little n2o would help. When you use n2o at the line do you inject small amounts constantly when your staging, or does it come on strong as soon as you drop the clutch and go wide open?
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I may just have to live with the bog at the line. Maybe Ill try throwing some stock tires on when I head to the track.
I was thinking a little n2o would help. When you use n2o at the line do you inject small amounts constantly when your staging, or does it come on strong as soon as you drop the clutch and go wide open?
I was thinking a little n2o would help. When you use n2o at the line do you inject small amounts constantly when your staging, or does it come on strong as soon as you drop the clutch and go wide open?
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#8
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IDK what single disc you have, but you really need launch RPM for that 66.... at least 2500, 3K if the clutch will hold it.
That way, you can eliminate a gear change (key to better ETs with the NVs) for a better 60', and if you do run 285s with the widest tread you can find, you'll be able to wind out in direct and avoid the last gear change; plan your launch and effective gear ratio properly, and you'll be rowing a 3-speed down the track.
There's a LOT of kinetic energy stored up in a CTD's rotating assembly at RPM, so make sure the drivetrain is slightly loaded to prevent carnage-inducing shock, and of course a launch like that requires traction bars.
You should get the finer points of the 1/4 technique sorted out before you start trying to crutch the 66 with nitrous or something. If you do end up spraying, a medium shot (i.e. #75 pill) from just over launch RPM boost to your charger's boost threshold (for example, 7psi-15psi) will help as a first stage, and you can use the same pill as a second stage to help clear any smoke left after the 66 is lit.
That way, you can eliminate a gear change (key to better ETs with the NVs) for a better 60', and if you do run 285s with the widest tread you can find, you'll be able to wind out in direct and avoid the last gear change; plan your launch and effective gear ratio properly, and you'll be rowing a 3-speed down the track.
There's a LOT of kinetic energy stored up in a CTD's rotating assembly at RPM, so make sure the drivetrain is slightly loaded to prevent carnage-inducing shock, and of course a launch like that requires traction bars.
You should get the finer points of the 1/4 technique sorted out before you start trying to crutch the 66 with nitrous or something. If you do end up spraying, a medium shot (i.e. #75 pill) from just over launch RPM boost to your charger's boost threshold (for example, 7psi-15psi) will help as a first stage, and you can use the same pill as a second stage to help clear any smoke left after the 66 is lit.
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With my single I couldn't slip it at all.....other wise it wouuld just keep slipping.....So I would just set up a small single stage on a TPS switch. With a DD 3rd gear is the only way too do it....
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You can...but it isn't advisable......if you have ever heard or seen a nitrous backfire....it is usually doo too adding nitrous with not enough fuel or boost, so the timing gets all screwed up. Nitrous effectivly increasees timing just as adding pressure and larger injectors does.
#12
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IDK what single disc you have, but you really need launch RPM for that 66.... at least 2500, 3K if the clutch will hold it.
That way, you can eliminate a gear change (key to better ETs with the NVs) for a better 60', and if you do run 285s with the widest tread you can find, you'll be able to wind out in direct and avoid the last gear change; plan your launch and effective gear ratio properly, and you'll be rowing a 3-speed down the track.
There's a LOT of kinetic energy stored up in a CTD's rotating assembly at RPM, so make sure the drivetrain is slightly loaded to prevent carnage-inducing shock, and of course a launch like that requires traction bars.
You should get the finer points of the 1/4 technique sorted out before you start trying to crutch the 66 with nitrous or something. If you do end up spraying, a medium shot (i.e. #75 pill) from just over launch RPM boost to your charger's boost threshold (for example, 7psi-15psi) will help as a first stage, and you can use the same pill as a second stage to help clear any smoke left after the 66 is lit.
That way, you can eliminate a gear change (key to better ETs with the NVs) for a better 60', and if you do run 285s with the widest tread you can find, you'll be able to wind out in direct and avoid the last gear change; plan your launch and effective gear ratio properly, and you'll be rowing a 3-speed down the track.
There's a LOT of kinetic energy stored up in a CTD's rotating assembly at RPM, so make sure the drivetrain is slightly loaded to prevent carnage-inducing shock, and of course a launch like that requires traction bars.
You should get the finer points of the 1/4 technique sorted out before you start trying to crutch the 66 with nitrous or something. If you do end up spraying, a medium shot (i.e. #75 pill) from just over launch RPM boost to your charger's boost threshold (for example, 7psi-15psi) will help as a first stage, and you can use the same pill as a second stage to help clear any smoke left after the 66 is lit.
Its a full ceramic valair, the same one matago is running. The local track is only a 1/8 mile track so that kinda sucks. I know im not at all set up to run at the track its just something fun to do in the evenings.
#15
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Autos are fast, that is a fact. Thats what makes a win against one so much better.
Have you fried that ceramic clutch yet? My clutch squeals like a pig pulling out and downshifting since I welded her tight that one day. I guess blue flywheels make weird noises.
I know I cant wait for the end of the month when the local 1/4 opens back up. I guess I need to start painting the track-bite on the spare BFG's