[quote author=Ram04 link=board=17;threadid=23121;start=0#msg221099 date=1071022821]
I want to switch over my Ram to synth. after break in but can anyone tell me if seal failures are covered under warranty with using any of the synthetics?[/quote]There is no cause and effect relationship between the use of syn oil causing oil seal failures. If a seal should have a tendency to leak, syn oil will have an easier time than dino finding that leaky spot.

A leaky seal is a leaky seal. But depending on the severity of it, location of the seal, you may get the standard reply from the service manager: "thats normal for those engines and trucks".

I'm running Amsoil in my diffs and not worried one bit about it.

 

OK, they are class IV but does that mean they are ester based?

 

[quote author=brillmtb link=board=17;threadid=23121;start=15#msg221563 date=1071089455]
OK, they are class IV but does that mean they are ester based?
[/quote]

Yes, class 4 = PAO/Ester base. Both D1 and Amsoil 15w40 are superior oils. They can easily be run 10k in a 3rd Gen, likely 15-20K with oil analysis testing of course to determine proper interval.

 

[quote author=bulabula link=board=17;threadid=23121;start=15#msg221166 date=1071029710]
[quote author=Ram04 link=board=17;threadid=23121;start=0#msg221099 date=1071022821]
I want to switch over my Ram to synth. after break in but can anyone tell me if seal failures are covered under warranty with using any of the synthetics?[/quote]There is no cause and effect relationship between the use of syn oil causing oil seal failures. If a seal should have a tendency to leak, syn oil will have an easier time than dino finding that leaky spot.

A leaky seal is a leaky seal. But depending on the severity of it, location of the seal, you may get the standard reply from the service manager: "thats normal for those engines and trucks".

I'm running Amsoil in my diffs and not worried one bit about it.
[/quote]

I know, I know, but.....

Honda motorcycle engines are not known (like a Harley) to leak oil. I bought an old Magna which did not leak oil. On my second or third oil change, I switched to Mobil 1 15w-50. Now it leaks as bad (or worse than) any Harley I've ever owned.

Coincidence? Maybe. But the old saying, "where there's smoke, there's fire" comes to mind. I find it hard to believe that people started circulating rumours that their engines started to leak after using synthetic oil just for grins.

 

[quote author=Ram04 link=board=49;threadid=23121;start=0#msg221099 date=1071022821]
Iron horse,
I have never used Amsoil synthetic but could someone comment on how dirty the oil looks after extended oil change intervals with this product. My Dakota's engine was turned into a sludge factory from only 4 years of Dino abuse. I switched to Mobil 1 and it is still getting dirty fairly quick by cleaning sludge out of the engine in my estimation. I want to switch over my Ram to synth. after break in but can anyone tell me if seal failures are covered under warranty with using any of the synthetics?

Randy
[/quote]

Amsoil starts out darker than most mineral oils. In my F150 I have not changed the oil in over 2 years. You can look down the filler cap and the valvetrain is very clean looking. The oil is a dark carmal color but not black by any means like a diesel. Also periodic analysis indicates the oil is in the proper grade(viscosity) with lower oxidation and nitration numbers. All wear numbers are in check as well. Now I do have a by-pass filter on this truck but even before I put the system on I went over 10,000 miles and 18 months with a normal filter, I have the analysis from that first run as well.

On your Dakota, I would have done a auto-rx run with dino oil prior to switching over to Mobil 1.

 

FWIW, I'd never run syn oil in a motorcycle engine that shares the oil with the transmission and clutch. My old Honda 750 SOHC clutch didn't like it almost 20 years ago. I prefer to use a high quality dino oil and change frequently.

I had a volvo that seemed to leak M1 like a sieve out of the rear main seal, and barely a dribble with Valvoline dino. Now if I ran the M1 oil level at the ragged edge low, the leak wasn't too bad. Nevertheless, I fed it dino oil.

 

Royal Purple makes a 15W-40 weight for diesels that I plan on using once my engine is broken in. I have used RP in the last 2 of my vehicles and my wifes car. Before I used Mobile 1 and saw a MPG improvement in all over the Mobile 1. I am sure Amsoil is a good lubricant, but I would like to see some independant studies and some dyno results posted on their site. I can also buy RP from my local Napa.

-Muzzy

 

Seal failures are NOT covered by most Synth Oil manufactures. If you read their info they tell you flush the engine first with their engine flush to help break loose all of the sludge and they usually tell you for high mileage engines go with the Para-Synth.
Oh yeah AMSOIL does offer Series 3000 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil

 

He said seal failure........

My understanding of leaking seals are the same as most posts here. The leaks usually happen on high mileage engines that have been running dino oil. What usually happens is that the detergents in the synthetic oils cleans the sludge from the seals and until the seals recondition themselves, they leak. Sometimes they are too far gone to recondition themselves. Most of the leak rumors are from 70's and 80's model cars. Newer cars/trucks have high amounts of silicone base material in the seals in order for them to last longer. On low mileage vehicles swithching to synthetic will almost never "cause" a leak. And, you will get much better protection from syn. My Ram only has 19,000 miles on it, so its running Premium Blue Valvoline for at least on more change. Then its getting switched over to Amsoil 15w-40 for life. I am currently running my 99 RT Neon on 5w-30 Amsoil and going 20k between changes, 5k between filter changes....and no leaks (120k miles and going strong).

Tim

 

I use Amsoil 15/40 HDD. I intend to get the dual bypass filter system when I can afford it, but right now I change the filter (Stratapore) every 6 thousand miles, and oil every 18 thousand. I usually use about a quart between changes, and I just ordered an oil analysis kit. Next change I'll send in a sample and post the results.

I live in Northwestern Lower Michigan, and I use the 15/40 year around and have no problems.

DeWain

 

cp,

latitud_rt is correct. The key in your thread cp, was that you bought an "old" Magna. Anything older than 6 or 10 years without regular use and good mantainance is going to have dried out or burned up seals.

Dino oil has a wax base and is made of organic particals, which take the shape of cones, rods and such. It plugs holes much better than synthetic. Synth oil is made of perfectly round spheres, so it flows much much better than organic oil. If you have a bad seal, you will find it with synthetic oil.

Imagine rolling an upright freezer across a garage floor on its' side. Trying using sand and gravel to help roll it across the concrete. That's what dino oil is like in an engine. Now try using marbles of equal size to slide that freezer across the floor. That's synthetic oil at work in your engine.

Synthetic oils reduce wear, decrease heat, improve economy and clean far better than dino. It works better in every application. I use it in my lawn mower, Honda Fat Cat, Polaris 500HO, wife's '94 Jeep, and daughter's '88 Tercel. Once I get 20K on this rig, I'm going to Amsoil 15w/40 HD Marine/Diesel.

The only time I would use dino over synth is during a new engine "break-in" period, or becuase an old worn out, leaky, oil burning pig wasn't worth the extra money. If it was just leaking, I'd fix the darn seals, run syth and never look back.

 

DODGE 2004 2500 Quad Cab 4x4, 3.73 rear, 6 spd manual, HO Cummins      

Dodge    Amsoil
      
Engine Oil   MOPAR 15-40W ($2.10)   15-40W($5.20QT/20.50gal) or 5-30W(8.35QT/31.55gal)
      
Eng. Oil Filter   Mopar 05083285AA ($11.38)   SDF-80(13.85)
      
Eng Air Filter   AF53032700AA    TS106($35.90)
recharge Kit AF-BC (2.80)
      
Eng. Coolant   5011764AB  &nbs p;
      
Transfer Case   Mopar ATF+4 ATF    Synthetic Universal
Automatic(ATF$7.80qt)
      
      
Manual Trans. NV 5600 ( 6 Spd)   Manual Fluid 4874464 (Still waiting for AMSOIL info, but all indications are to use 10-30w AMSOIL Engine OIL)   
      
Frt & Rear Axle   GL-5 SAE 75W-90 Synthetic. NO ADDITIVE   2000 Synthetic 75w-140 ($9.20 qt)OR 2000 75w-90(TGR$9.20qt/) AMSOIL recommends putting the 75w-140 in the rear end, better properties...
      
Engine Fuel Filter      FF1093($ 13.20)
      
Just passing along some info, starting to look at changing my 04 over at 7500k...

 

I agree on the synthetic oils in the areas that don't need to be serviced alot, tranny, rears, etc. But the Motor? That's one reason I bought the Cummins... 7500 oil changes for severe use. Shell Rottela is 8.00 (roughly) a gallon. Thats 24.00 for an oil change, vrs 65.00 for synthetic! Thats alot of money over 100,000 miles. Now I know all about the better lube properties in the synthetics but I've also seen alot of Cummins with well over 200k on them and all they have had is dino oil. My truck will be in someone elses driveway long before then!