Anyone have FASS phone number or tech line?
#4
1-866 works but not 886. i phoned them. just to let u all know i read what u posted. my hands are tied. why should i drop the tank myself on my street (cuz have no garage) when they should do it under "warranty". i payed $1750 to get it installed so i took it back. they hosed me again and swore up and down that they installed like the fass manual and fass tech on the phone stated to do it. My word against theirs so they charged me $600 yesterday but after complaining I ended up paying $280. so yes $2000 so far. i know what needs to be done they just didnt wanna do it. now i guess i will. any tips on dropping tank on a gravel road? thats where i have to do it. i have no garage. will dust get into my tank?
#5
I dropped my tank on a gravel drive in a farmers field... at a DTR #8 Get Together. Was installing a Draw Straw!
Used a floor jack and a 2x8x6 to support tank as it lowered. Not a big problem... but had many hands to help... and a few beer drinking supervisors to give advise.
Seriously, not bad but extra pair of hands does help a lot.
RJ
#7
You should rent garage space, it would be cheaper then letting these guys take as much money from you as you seem to give them.
Remove the bed. Easier to do and you get better dimensions on the tank for the straw.
Remove the bed. Easier to do and you get better dimensions on the tank for the straw.
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#8
#9
^ I agree with removing the bed. After installing my airdog it seems like the only way to go with how much these tanks flex. Grab three buddies and pull the bed. I wouldnt be worried about doing it without a garage, Wyododge06 and I did my install last weekend in the parking lot of our apartment complex with basic handtools.
#12
I did mine in a gravel driveway. Just make sure you get the fuel level down as low as possible, it makes it a lot easier. I disconnected the fuel lines up top, put a jack in the middle (with a long board to spread the load), undid the straps and lowered it.
Don't worry about much dust or anything. Just don't do anything crazy like dump dirt into it... otherwise you'll be fine.
What I did to best simulate the tank being hung by its straps was to prop it up on a couple 2x4's at the strap location. It flexed some but not much. I'm sure this dimension changes depending on your fuel load too as much as the tank flexes.
I cut a V notch into my draw straw and placed it just so it was barely touching the bottom of the tank.
Thats been nearly two years ago and I've not had any problems since. I can run down to about 1/8th of a tank before I see my fuel pressure fluctuate.
If I did have to do it over again I would go for the modified fuel canister instead of the draw straw. Nobody had even thought about the 1/4 tank problem by that time though.
Good luck, just take your time and you can't screw it up.
Don't worry about much dust or anything. Just don't do anything crazy like dump dirt into it... otherwise you'll be fine.
What I did to best simulate the tank being hung by its straps was to prop it up on a couple 2x4's at the strap location. It flexed some but not much. I'm sure this dimension changes depending on your fuel load too as much as the tank flexes.
I cut a V notch into my draw straw and placed it just so it was barely touching the bottom of the tank.
Thats been nearly two years ago and I've not had any problems since. I can run down to about 1/8th of a tank before I see my fuel pressure fluctuate.
If I did have to do it over again I would go for the modified fuel canister instead of the draw straw. Nobody had even thought about the 1/4 tank problem by that time though.
Good luck, just take your time and you can't screw it up.
#14
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,640
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From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
Run it low as you can, undo the fass return from the filler neck, put it in a gas can, turn the key it will pump into the gas can and empty the tank.
Remove inner fender liner if you have one, undo wiriing and hoses from canister, undo 2 bolts and drop the tank onto your chest while layting under the truck, piece of cake, way easier than lifting the whole box off.
With the 150 you'll need 2 sraw straws into your canister, 1 to feed the Fass, 1 for the return or buy a modded canister or one of the new kits.
If you had a 100 you coulda used the factory feed like the shop did.
Remove inner fender liner if you have one, undo wiriing and hoses from canister, undo 2 bolts and drop the tank onto your chest while layting under the truck, piece of cake, way easier than lifting the whole box off.
With the 150 you'll need 2 sraw straws into your canister, 1 to feed the Fass, 1 for the return or buy a modded canister or one of the new kits.
If you had a 100 you coulda used the factory feed like the shop did.
#15
thanks fisherguy. i finally figured it out now. reason why my dealer hooked it up the way they did was because they were used to installing the 100 gph fass pumps. mine was the first install that used the new 95 series 150gph. it is way to much gph to be sucking from the stock canister.
with that being said the mechanic robbie at dsg shouldnt say he installed it according to fass or the install manual because he didnt.i think he threw the install manual out when he did mine because he was so used setting up the old smaller ones. he just doesnt wanna admit it. he maybe has a ego to protect.
ill let u all know what happens later on next week.thanks to all
with that being said the mechanic robbie at dsg shouldnt say he installed it according to fass or the install manual because he didnt.i think he threw the install manual out when he did mine because he was so used setting up the old smaller ones. he just doesnt wanna admit it. he maybe has a ego to protect.
ill let u all know what happens later on next week.thanks to all