Any Regrets on Pyrometer in Manifold?
#1
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Any Regrets on Pyrometer in Manifold?
Any one have any regrets on installing their pyrometer in the exhaust manifold? I understand there will be a temperiture differance from in the down pipe location but it just doesn't set well with me drilling the maniflod. Too big a chance of stray cuttings and the manifold cracking. Thanks for your input.
#2
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I don't have any regrets. Done a couple of them now. I just drilled it with a magnet next to the bit to pull the shavings off as it drilled. Then ran the magnet around inside until I wasn't picking anything else up anymore. No problems afterwards.
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the easiest way to drill the manifold is start the truck when you start drilling, be sure to wear a face shield or goggles at minimum to protect your face from shavings. I've done 3 this way with excellent results.
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My only regret is trying to see what kind of readings I got in different spots. Turned out the first spot was the best. Now I have three holes in the manifold. No cracking so knock on wood.
#6
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The manifold is the place to put it, you'd probably regret putting it in the down pipe.
The engine running and grease on the tap/bit are very common, and I don't think they are the best way to do it...
Not all of the shavings will be blown out of the hole as you drill, some will go out the exhaust. Even at idle the turbo is spinning at thousands of rpms. Even a small piece of shavings hitting a turbine wheel at thousands of rpms can do damage.
The grease on the bit has the same issues, the grease will hold most the shavings, and most of the grease. Now you have chips and globs of grease hitting a turbine spinning at thousands of rpms.
My preferred method is as follows. Drill the pilot hole, and the proper hole for the tap with a sharp bit at a good drill speed, this will produce fewer larger shavings. Have a vacuum near the bit to aid in sucking anything out. Next tap the hole with the vacuum nearby. Then you can put the vacuum over the hole, but really wont get anything. Next take a little pressurized air to the hole. Then install the probe, you may have tap a little deeper to ensure the probe is seated properly (about in the middle of the stream)..
Then start the truck. The initial air coming out of the cylinders will blow whatever small chips are present thru the turbo before the turbine wheel obtains idle rpms, and any damage occurs.
The engine running and grease on the tap/bit are very common, and I don't think they are the best way to do it...
Not all of the shavings will be blown out of the hole as you drill, some will go out the exhaust. Even at idle the turbo is spinning at thousands of rpms. Even a small piece of shavings hitting a turbine wheel at thousands of rpms can do damage.
The grease on the bit has the same issues, the grease will hold most the shavings, and most of the grease. Now you have chips and globs of grease hitting a turbine spinning at thousands of rpms.
My preferred method is as follows. Drill the pilot hole, and the proper hole for the tap with a sharp bit at a good drill speed, this will produce fewer larger shavings. Have a vacuum near the bit to aid in sucking anything out. Next tap the hole with the vacuum nearby. Then you can put the vacuum over the hole, but really wont get anything. Next take a little pressurized air to the hole. Then install the probe, you may have tap a little deeper to ensure the probe is seated properly (about in the middle of the stream)..
Then start the truck. The initial air coming out of the cylinders will blow whatever small chips are present thru the turbo before the turbine wheel obtains idle rpms, and any damage occurs.
#7
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Here's a thought. How about taking the manifold off? Probably a lot more work in the long run but the safest way. How many people have done by removing the manifold?
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#8
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I have done several by idling during the drilling process and tapping. Also duct tape the exhaust to increase the back pressure. Start with a small drill bit and slowly work up to the final size. Wear safety glasses, face shield and gloves because the chips will be flying out of the hole at mach one and will be hot.
MikeyB
MikeyB
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I drilled and tapped mine with the engine off. I used a little cutting oil, which does tend to keep the shavings with both the drill bit and the tap stuck more to them. I also had two small magnets near where I was drilling and tapping. I used a small pen-type magnet to get any shavings from inside the manifold.
I measured the length of the fitting that went into the hole, then marked my probe shaft for where it should sit when in the fitting and allowed for the tip to just barely protrude at the bottom of the fitting, then I tightened it up in place.
Never had any problems. All works good, and has for 4 years.
CD
I measured the length of the fitting that went into the hole, then marked my probe shaft for where it should sit when in the fitting and allowed for the tip to just barely protrude at the bottom of the fitting, then I tightened it up in place.
Never had any problems. All works good, and has for 4 years.
CD
#10
The manifold is the place to put it, you'd probably regret putting it in the down pipe.
The engine running and grease on the tap/bit are very common, and I don't think they are the best way to do it...
Not all of the shavings will be blown out of the hole as you drill, some will go out the exhaust. Even at idle the turbo is spinning at thousands of rpms. Even a small piece of shavings hitting a turbine wheel at thousands of rpms can do damage.
The grease on the bit has the same issues, the grease will hold most the shavings, and most of the grease. Now you have chips and globs of grease hitting a turbine spinning at thousands of rpms.
My preferred method is as follows. Drill the pilot hole, and the proper hole for the tap with a sharp bit at a good drill speed, this will produce fewer larger shavings. Have a vacuum near the bit to aid in sucking anything out. Next tap the hole with the vacuum nearby. Then you can put the vacuum over the hole, but really wont get anything. Next take a little pressurized air to the hole. Then install the probe, you may have tap a little deeper to ensure the probe is seated properly (about in the middle of the stream)..
Then start the truck. The initial air coming out of the cylinders will blow whatever small chips are present thru the turbo before the turbine wheel obtains idle rpms, and any damage occurs.
The engine running and grease on the tap/bit are very common, and I don't think they are the best way to do it...
Not all of the shavings will be blown out of the hole as you drill, some will go out the exhaust. Even at idle the turbo is spinning at thousands of rpms. Even a small piece of shavings hitting a turbine wheel at thousands of rpms can do damage.
The grease on the bit has the same issues, the grease will hold most the shavings, and most of the grease. Now you have chips and globs of grease hitting a turbine spinning at thousands of rpms.
My preferred method is as follows. Drill the pilot hole, and the proper hole for the tap with a sharp bit at a good drill speed, this will produce fewer larger shavings. Have a vacuum near the bit to aid in sucking anything out. Next tap the hole with the vacuum nearby. Then you can put the vacuum over the hole, but really wont get anything. Next take a little pressurized air to the hole. Then install the probe, you may have tap a little deeper to ensure the probe is seated properly (about in the middle of the stream)..
Then start the truck. The initial air coming out of the cylinders will blow whatever small chips are present thru the turbo before the turbine wheel obtains idle rpms, and any damage occurs.
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#12
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I got the hottest reading after #3... Though it is reported that 5 and 6 run the hottest, and I believe it, with the design of the stock manifold it can be hard to get a good average off the 2nd bank.
#13
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Thanks for all the input, I'm going to opt for the engine off and drilling in increments with a vacuum to catch the shavings. Another question, where all did some of you mount the amplifier box for the thermocouple? It almost has to go some where in the cab because it seems like the the wiring to the gauge is too short for out on the fire wall. The kit I have is from DieselManer with instructions but who ever reads them anyway. Thanks again
#14
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The amplifier boxes are not waterproof, needs to be in the cab. Most just tie it up under the dash on the left side, lots of space there, should be just enough wire to go to the a-pillar from that area.
CD
CD
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Thanks CD, that is what if figured but haven't gotten to ripping the dash apart yet. Probably going to opt out this weekend, need a couple of special fittings for my fuel pressure that I can pick-up Tuesday. I'm going to get everyting figured out how I want to route things under the hood and then move to the inside. Time to quit on this project and go was it. Have a good one and thanks again.