CRXsi

Your idea is mostly ok...I wouldn't run the higher current wires from the engine compartment into the cab and back out again. I would have the switches inside the cab as the signal wires for relays mounted closer to the components or battery. That way there is less current draw due to less wire and if the wires going into the cab short out they won't be shorting out 30A but rather .3A which can be less messy if a fuse fails to blow quick enough.

Ghost Ram

i have decided to use their supplied harness after removing all the loom and seeing exactly how they wired it. i did eliminate the extra wiring for the warning light since i wont be using it. i will trigger off of the stock pump power wire under the truck somewhere it is easy to get to if i ever have to reconnect the factory pump in a jam. and i will mount the ralay and fuse next to the battery.

i like the idea of plumbing the factory supply line into the tapped 90* fitting for a backup, but i would rather use the pressure gauge instead.

i trust the airdog pump to last a long time, but what i dont trust are aftermarket relays and wiring. i wonder where we would ever find a replacement relay if it were to go bad? i know i will be keeping a paperclip in the truck incase that ever happens

Bswope

Dude this is gonna sound stupid but where do i find paint to make up a drawling? My computer skills are very limited!

CRXsi

Most relays are pretty standard. Almost every Autoparts store will carry a relay that will work. Usually a standard fog light relay will work and they are usually made by Bosch (decent quality). You need a relay with minimum 4 terminals (#30, #85, #86 & #87). #30 goes to battery power (fused for fuel pump), #87 goes tot he fuel pump. #85 & #86 go to a switch (one side being battery positive, low current draw and the other side to ground or in the supplied harnesses case to the factory fuel pump connector).

Bswope

That is how i did mine! Its not really for backup but i wanna use the factory system with the fuel heater for really cold weather starts!!

Bswope

Could u make up a diagram of this and post it? So i need a new relay for the factory system to work?
Right now the only wire that is cut on the factory pump connector is the power supply wire, witch now powers the AD, i didnt cut it at the connector, traced it farther up the frame.

Fisherguy

So you're using a Liberty canister with the 150?

Sandaholic

Yep in my sig

Festus

You can use Microsoft Powerpoint as well - allows the same thing. I have trouble finding my Paint as well....they hide it.

53 willys

the relay on the AD harness is NOTHING SPECIAL....all it is is a 5 spade automotive 30amp realy...you can pick them up at any part store for cheap...go buy one and keep it in your glove box if your worried.

when you buy the relay you will notice the wiring schematic is printed right on the relay.

even if you have the water proof relay you can still use the regular non water proof relay on a water proof base.

53 willys

if you cut the orange with red tracer wire for your AD trigger then all you need to do to hook your stock pump up is to connect the orange wire ends back up, and attach your fuel lines

cgmorgan06

I am interested in seeing a writeup on how you did it.

53 willys

here you go...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=189220

cgmorgan06

thanks Mark

Bswope

53 thats what id like to do, since i already have the AD trigger wire(red) spliced to the factory power wire(orange with red tracer) just reconnect it to get power back to the factory pump, then in the red wire(AD trigger wire) splice in the rocker switch that will be in cab, power into the switch and power back out to the AD relay harness, so all im doin with the switch is breakin the current, and do the same thing with the factory wire(orange with red tracer) but splice the switch to the factory pump in after where the AD tigger wire is spliced to the factory wire. So now i have the ability to run both systems but at different times, dont wanna run both at the same time.
Or do ineed to put some inline fuses in the rocker switches somewhere?
Sorry if im bein a PITA about this but i got this idea in my head and now its one of those things where i have to see if i can do it, u know what i mean?