glocklove

Fisherguy how do you like those Cooper 285 AT's???? Local guy is tryin to get me to buy a set..and thanks for the info about not havin to drop the tank I mean the drive shaft

Fisherguy

The tires are okay, I've got about 27k miles on them, they should make it to 50k. They're only D rated though.
If I was to buy that size again I'd look into Toyo ATs maybe, they're probly a lot more money but I've heard nothing but great things about them on here and are available in an E rating.

I hope to land some 315 BFG AT's on 2008 chrome H2's as my next set, that and a leveling kit one day.

BTW, click on the link in my signature for my install of the AD100.

glocklove

So I should due this while I have the tank dropped is what your sayin..

Fisherguy

If you read a lot of people's experiences on here with drilling a hole in the tank and using the draw straw that comes with the AD kit you'll learn many are having problems when they get low on fuel. It's a huge l-o-n-g tank so unless you get the length of the draw straw just right when you get to ¼ tank or lower you could find your fuel pressure drops to zero, especially cornering or on hills cuz there's no fuel at the end of the straw and it's sucking air.

A few people (including 53willys) modded the canister by putting the draw straw into it rather than the tank, some worked well, some still had problems, some ended up putting 2 draw straws into it (which is what I'd do if I put in an AD150)

I was hoping to avoid all those hassles by instead using the Liberty canister but found I had problems when I got down to just over ¼ tank. So (with a lot of advice from 53willys and Charlie) I put a new draw straw into the Liberty canister so the AD return is pumped back into the canister and that cured my problem.

I'm not saying my solution worked better than anyone else's but it did work for me even with less than 1" of fuel in the tank, my pressure never waivers now.

(Keep in mind though as well as the AD100 kit I had to by the different draw straw and a Liberty canister, it all adds up.)

It would be WAY easier just to install a Raptor to the factory canister but then if you add a 2 micron filter it's cheaper to just go with the AD.

Sorry, don't know if this whole blurb is helping or hindering your decision...

glocklove

Okay thanks, I'm not real sure of anything, this is my first Diesel and I am still learning a lot, so I should just go with the AD and the draw straw and be done with it..??

Fisherguy

If you use the factory canister you'll need to remove the factory pump form it first so you can save money buy not using the Liberty. (seems weird to spending $100 on something then grinding it and drilling a hole in it to make it work)
The AD100 pumps enough fuel to support 600HP or something (way more than I'll ever have), if you go for the 150 you'll end up adding 2 draw straws to the canister.

Hvytrkmech

You don't have to remove the shaft, but it makes life a LOT easier if you do.
Especially if your doing it on a lift, it takes all of 2 minutes to pull it.


Tim

glocklove

Okay, I think I would go with the AD100, I don't think I would ever reach that 600 horse mark(is that RWHP or at the crank HP??). But sounds like the truck will better off for it.

Fisherguy

The AD100 is probly all most people need, but the price of the 150 is the same (or at least it was when I did mine), and with the 100 you can use the factory pickup tube of the stock (or Liberty) canister, makes for a little easier install.

BTW, most people here only talk about the HP that counts, that's to the rear wheels.

ISB03

was doin some reading today, does the supplied kit eliminate the stock filter housing/LP? If it doesnt, what do you have to do to get ride of that **** thing I hate it!

Fisherguy

The AD goes right to the CP3, or VP44 (or whatcha call) in your case.
(bypasses the stock filter)

53 willys

if you wanna take your filter canister out of the truck completely then you need a GDP filter eliminator bracket

http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...x?pf_id=0306FE

if you do take your filter canister out let me know!!!!
I need a stock OEM canister for a new project.....
thanks

TriSum

Not to hijack, BUT......

Has anyone seen any mileage increase from either the AD or FASS. I believe both of them claim by separating the air from the fuel you will pick up mileage. Just curious.

David

rip 112

Well I can answer to an extent. Now that I have the AD my mods are working better together because the pressure is there to be had. With my truck turned up I get the best mileage because the truck requires hardly any throttle to run the truck, much less throttle than stock in my case. I believe with that and the extra filtration/ water separation not only is the mileage more consistent but the fuel is considerably cleaner going in to the engine and most importantly the sensitive CP3. So in shoter words, it is definitely worth it in my case and many others.

dodgediesel

How much quieter is the AD than the FASS???