Jerry R

OK, sorry I haven't responded to some posts but my modem craped out Sunday and I just put a new one in. Using a hole saw and a Hole Hog the way Wetspirit said is probably the best way but I didn't have one and tried using a heavy duty 1/2" drill and it did not work. I ended up using a 4" side grinder then triming it up with a die grinder and a flaper wheel. Worked OK but not perfect. When I went to Discount Tire to get them mounted and balanced I told the guy there wasn't much left to the bevel on the back and he said no problem. They bolted an 8 lug plate to the rims and balanced them lug centric which is what we really want anyway. I was out on the interstate and had them up to 90 mph and they are smooth as silk!
For making the Hub Caps work I mounted my 18 volt (battery) skill saw to the side of my work bench (blade parrallel to the top of bench) and set it to cut off 7/8" with the blade just out enough to cut thru the plastic. Then just spin the cap in front of it. Next you have to grind off most of the bottom portion of the L shaped clip that goes over the lug nut so it fits down in the rescess that the lug nuts set in. When you look at it you will see. And thats it!
Had the pinion factor changed yesterday, set to 601 revs. They charged me $42.00 (1/2 hour labor) You should have heard the BS they were trying to dazel me with. Anyway I love the way these tires lower the RPM's. Running 45 psi in the front and 35 in the rear right now, seems to be OK. Was going to lower the rear but I think I will wait to see how my trailers sit. I have to agree with Wetspirit, these are the perfect tires and rims for our trucks

Raspy

JerryR,

I'm glad it all worked out so well for you. It seems like getting the pinion factor reset is the biggest hassle! I agree with you about the lower engine RPM, it just sounds more relaxed. I went wheeling the other day and loved the traction off road. Even twisted up in a deep rut with one rear wheel two feet off the ground there was no rubbing.

Wetspirit

tcr

ok, the hummmer wheels look cool and they are in-expensive take offs, but lets face it....these bfg,made for chevy, we buy um cause they're cheaper, no white lettered 315/70/17 tires SUCK! They are just like the ford HD(harley davidson) supercrew 275/45/20, made buy the cheapest bidder to show up on 100,000+ to ?? suv's. I have 11,000 miles on mine and they are just about gone. Are they really the same bfg quality as the mud terrains??? I would never get another set, you get what you pay for......

Raspy

tcr,

I don't understand why you are so disapointed with the BFG's. I don't want raised white lettering (in the past I put that on the inside), I don't need to be a rolling billboard for some manufacturer. These tires have WAY more traction than the stock ones, are quiet on the road, have three ply sidewalls for wheeling, are cheap (as takeoffs), and look cool too. Plus the wheels are the perfect size with no rubbing. I haven't run them as far as you, only about 5000 miles, but they seem to be doing fine and they are smooth as glass on the highway.

Wetspirit

800summit

GerryR Why dont you raise the front of the truck 2" to level it out I did this and it looks the way a truck should cost is $129 from Tuff country and you dont need to realighn the front end

Jerry R

Well for me lowering the rear end would be better. It is too hi for getting things out of the back and getting in the toolbox. Also, and more important it will bring my trailers back closer to level without having to go to a deeper drop ball. As far as tires go I really like these BFGs and plan to get a lot of miles out of them. I rotate every time I change oil (5000 miles) and keep an eye on the tire preasure. As far as raised white letters go, I used to run Goodyear Wranglers back when they only came in raised white outline letters and they were ALWAYS turned to the INSIDE. I just think it looks better that way. I hope to get around to lowering the rear this afternoon.

Raspy

Jerry R,

I lowered the rear and it makes a nice difference on the looks of the truck and helps with the height of the bed and getting in and out. Of course the 315's raise it a bit and with those rear blocks in it is starting to get pretty high. I posted on an earlier thread the step by step work, but it's pretty simple if you have a good jack stand and a big C clamp. I used 1/2 inch Grade 8 bolts, I think 3 1/2 inch long and re-used the plastic (!) centering pin. That plastic pin seems like the weak link.
I think you'll be happy with the results.

Wetspirit

800summit

I have the stock BFG tires I was worried that they would be junk in the snow and ice, I even bought extra rims to put snow tires on. Well nobody makes a directional studless snow tire for 265l70/17 load range E . I ran the stockers last winter on ice and snow, I pull 24 trailer with snowmobiles, all I can say is these BFG worked very well. They wear good only problem is they like to pick up rocks.

Jerry R

Well, I got around to lowering the rear late this afternoon and I must say it is another great improvement! I didn't get around to hooking up any trailers to check the nose high aspect, but it should be a big improvement. I'll let ya'll know. But I can tell right off it looks much better! I like the level look.
Wetspirit, I followed your procedure and it worked very well, the only thing I did different was I just moved the two blocks from the bottom to the top. That way all the hardware stays the same and if I want to go back, everything is right there. I also coated everything with a good coat of Marine Grade Anti-size. One thing is for sure, you have to have good jack stands and floor jacks, even then the big boy is a little shakey when you have it up and separated like that. Maybe I'm just getting cautious in my old age. Anyway thanks for your great imput, I will try to get it washed and some new pictures posted this weekend for all to see.
800summit, I would think by looking at the tread they would be pretty good in snow and ice, but I can't comment because I have lived here in Florida all my life and know absolutely nothing about driving on snow and ice. I also can see where they would be pretty good rock throwers, but down here we just have them little rocks (sand) and I haven't had a problem yet. The real test for me is when the rains start ( June thru Oct) then we will see how good they can swim. Someday if I ever get to retire I plan to visit the rest of North America. Have a great weekend Ya'll

Raspy

Jerry R,

I'm glad that lifting block and 315 swap worked out so well! I just realized you have a standard cab too. What are those 4 door guys thinking? Are you thinking about flares next? I have a set of Zenon flares but am a little stalled out on installing them, afraid I'll get them crooked or something and they'll be so stuck I won't be able to fix it. What are you planning?

Wetspirit

hoot

I had the chrome H2 rims on my Dmax... 6 months of northeast weather and they were pitted to the point of worthlessness.

My advice is... if anybody is thinking about chrome.... think twice.

I loved the wheels on my Dmax though. The backspacing like you guys said is perfect. I'm considering another set but not chrome for the new truck.

Jerry R

Wetspirit, the only thing I am planning right now is to have the windows tinted. For now I think I will hold there. It has been really dry this spring so I haven't been able to tell if I will need flairs. I hope I don't because I really don't like the way they look, but we shall see. I live 2 miles down an unmaintained dirt road and when it gets wet..... well, you get the picture. As far as having standard cabs, I guess we are the only two fella's with real trucks, anything with more doors is a car/truck in my opinion and can you believe it. Dodge next year will not offer the standard cab, it is being discontinued. Maybe our trucks will be worth more in a couple of years?

hoot

Just hooked up a set on ebay.

Home Depot or Lowes does not carry 4 3/4" hole saw. So thats my next search.

Jerry R

Hoot, do you have access to a Hole Hog? Or a really heavy duty LOW SPEED drill? If not the 4-3/4" hole saw will do you no good. If you do I got mine from my Millwaukee Tool dealer, he had it in stock and I think I paid $47.00 with arbor. Way to go on the tires and rims! Hope you got a good deal.

hoot

I have a hole hog. Got the set for $460 Thanks for the tip on where to get the saw.... I have arbors.