jasonh

Truck is under the company name and my acct. is pushing me to spend some extra $. So... the truck qualifies. Of course, I have no time to make decisions (have to order everything by EOD tomorrow).

Ultimately, I'd like to make 450-500 rwhp.

Truck is an 06 QCSB 4x4, 3.73 rear, Edge Juice w/a.

Tires are BFGs, 315/70/17 on H2 wheels. The tires have to go, I'm not crazy about the BFGs but price-wise they seem to be quite a bit less expensive than Nitto or Toyo. I'm kind of leaning towards Toyos in a 285/75/18 on XDs. I want to keep the taller wheel for highway econ. Couldn't find anything on weight but I would think an 18" wheel vs. 17" would make for less unsprung weight at the same profile. I don't really have any complaints on the BFGs but I get a lot of flak on the H2s from the wife (they're unpainted without center caps). I would like to think that if I upgraded to 18's I could dump 5 drilled h2's to help offset the cost a bit.

Clutch - consensus seems to be that it's the flywheel not the clutch, but I've decided to go with the SB Dual Street w/ 6 buttons per side (Southbend Clutch Ductile Street Dual Disk 3600).

Exhaust - read a lot of good and some bad about the MBRP cool duals. I love the sound stacks make on these rigs but they won't fly and since it's a work truck they don't really make sense for us anyway. So I like the dual exhaust sound, these seem fairly mellow. Thinking I'll go cat-back and follow up with the test pipe later if I want to tweak it. Aluminized, going to paint/coat it.

Intake - I'm completely lost here. There are so many options out there I just have no idea what to do. I've heard the stock box flows OK but I've never done an exhaust without doing the intake so that's out there too.

I'm not looking to do injectors or an aftermarket turbo (unless there's a turbo out there that is fairly inexpensive and bolts on - and doesn't require me to deal with increasing the support around it). I think, though obviously I'm posting here because you guys are the experts, that to get to 500 at the rear I'll need to make 6-7 at the crank and I assume that would require a lot of $ and support. I don't *need* to hit that number though. It's a daily driver and light hauler for the most part. I'm hoping to not kill the fuel economy too much but have a lot more bang when I get on it.

Tuner - Smarty or leave the Juice w/a? I haven't had any codes or anything with this on but I only run it in street because (bought it used) I think you need aftermarket injectors/turbos to use the more extreme settings. I do like having the attitude monitor. It's not the greatest but it's nice to be able to have everything up there since I don't have guages. Can I run the Juice in stock mode and then program the ECM with a smarty to use that tune?

Steps - truck isn't listed but the wife is vertically challenged. I wouldn't mind a little help now and then either. Leaning towards the AMP research power step. I have some steps already but they required drilling through the floor. Bought them open but uninstalled from someone and they're just sitting now.

I guess that's it. Man, you guys are going to see this wall of text and bail!

• Tires
• Clutch
• Exhaust - (Done - MBRP Turbo Back Aluminized Cool Duals)
• Intake
• Steps

Thanks to everyone patient enough to get through this ! Dammit, I knew when the clutch started to go it would only lead to trouble...

prlsnpsdodge

Welcome!, This is definitly the place for advice.

I have stacks and love the sound. But if you want a great sound with a better under-cab exhaust- I'd go with a turbo back exhaust and LOSE the cat and stock muffler.

Just my $.02

wap

If you only want 450-500 hp do yourself a favor and get the 3250lb clutch, not the 3600. And I dont know what all you plan to do with the truck but if youre not drag racing I would get the 12cb instead of the 6. If this is a work truck or DD the 6cb would get old.

I am in the process of putting in a new pressure plate and its a 3250. Why? Cause thats what Peter said he wanted me to run, and thats knowing I have a decent set of twins and plan on bigger injectors in the future.

I know you dont want to outgrow your clutch but the 3250 should be all you will ever need especially at the power levels you said you wanted.

On the intake get an AFE and be done with, best out there IMO.

jasonh

Thanks, I was looking at the 3250 but when I spoke to him he suggested the 3600. I asked about rattle/chatter and grab and he said it was really smooth. I know the pedal will be a bit stiffer but I don't mind that (so I say now), but I guess that'd be pretty close to the 3250, no?

EDIT:
Guess not, 3250 says light pedal pressure. When you say it will get old, what do you mean?

.boB

18" wheels are heavier than 17" wheels, all else being equal. They will increase unsprung weight. They will also increase inertia and rolling mass.

jasonh

Thanks Bob! - I'm slow, had to think about it, but I get it. Thank you.

jasonh

Thanks!

I was thinking cat back + test pipe but I guess i'm losing a bit of flow there.

Stock muffler is long gone, I like the sound as is, but love the sound of duals.

no_6_oh_no

Some are, some aren't.It reallydepends on the wheel.

The 18" tires available are lousy for weight ratings unless you jump to 35" or greater tires then you loose all the gains for efficency. Stay with 17 " to get the best of both worlds.

Don't know the year so not usre what trans you have,but,either combo will benefit with a 33-34" tire and actually maybe gain you something. By the time you get to 35's you loose anything you gained in height for efficiency.

A cam and 50-60 HP injectors area good investment for both power and efficiency. A Smarty instead of the EJA will help in adjustability and gain you some mileage.

OldDodgeOwner

Might look at the Goodyear Duratracs for tires. I'm pretty impressed with the set I've got on one of my work trucks so far.

Intake-Not really needed, but I like my S&B.

Clutch-I think a 3250 would be perfect for what you want.

Steps-If you aren't afraid of the price, AMP steps are great.

jasonh

Yeah I'm on the BFG AT/KO's now 315/70-17 and got a nice boost over the stockers but I was considering something closer to 33's.

Only problem with cam and injectors is that I need to research extensively before I buy and I don't know if I could come up with the info in time to make the purchase. Had the truck for 4 years and it's more or less stock, though it doesn't necessarily look it. Anyway, opportunities like this don't come along very often so I do want to make the most of it. What kind of power (roughly) would 60hp injectors & a cam net?

Turbos have been calling for me all day as well, but again, I wouldn't know where to start researching with no time.

Regarding the Smarty - I do like the attitude monitor, could I run the EJA in stock mode and tweak the ECM with the Smarty or would the EJA interfere with the smarty tune?

jasonh

I looked at the Duratracs, I hadn't been able to find anyone with significant miles on them to judge tread life, but maybe I missed it. They're only a few bucks more than the BFGs and significantly cheaper than the other options i've been looking at. Also D rated, which is fine for me. Just wish I knew how long I could expect them to last. My BFGs were H2 takeoffs and were pretty worn but I still got over 25k out of them. They're shot now, starting to crack, but they still have serviceable tread left. Thanks!

no_6_oh_no

What year\trans is your truck?

The 33's are almost perfect with an auto and the high OD, better than stock with the manuals but I think the 315 is a good choice for either manual for excellent mileage.

Forget the GoodYears and do NOT go with a D-rated tire. The sidewalls are not heavy enouhg for the diesels and your chances of death wobble go right thru the roof. Nitto and Toyo are the only 2 tires that are rated for weight and sidewal strength that work on these trucks well and the jury is still out on the Nittos.

Colt cams, lots of people using then and they work well. F1 diesel cams are another great choice. I would go with either without research as they have been proven by more than a few to be good. Cam won't net you any power but if you have the emissions engine it will help defeat some of the effect of the 3rd event alng with the injectors and Smarty some have posted as high a 40% gain. A flat 25% gain across the board is quit reasonable.

The 40-60 HP injectors should give that with stock tune. They seem to help the efficiency a little also. Either Industrial Injection or DDP for choices. DDP is probably tops but cost a little more. If you want to spend the $$ and need a choice Industrial Injection's SPS 62\12 is a great single turbo that should support what you want for power.

You can just run the Attitude monitor with Smarty loaded with no problems. Personally, I hate the digitalsbecuase they are not real reliable. I like analog ISSPRO gauages.

Another thing to consider is the CP-3 Bag of Parts from II or Arson and don't forget an LP upgrade. A few phone calls to Source Automotive and II or DDP tomorrow and your set.

jasonh

Truck is an 06 w/ G56. Sorry, I have a signature saved and Show signature checked but it's not showing up.

I've been very pleased with the 315's to date. Hand calc I average 18-22mpg on a tank. My commute to work is a pain but it's 35-45mph without too many stops so that helps. Weekends don't.

I've run into guys with Toyos that swear they have over 40k on them then read horror stories on here. At any rate, I guess I'd be looking for a wider wheel than the H2's to get the 35's on (aren't they 35x12.50-17?) because the H2 is only 7.5 and that can't be wide enough to get a nice profile. I don't run flares at the moment (but wish I did), but I'd think with a 10" wheel and 12.50 tires I'd need to or I'd be sucking joggers in... I also seem to recall that I'd require a lift to fit these and I'm not too keen on lifting.


This looks expensive.... Stage 3 from Colt Cams sounds great! I'd have to have someone do this install for me though.

My accountant is going to be ******...

Wow, thanks so much for all of this. I have a feeling I'm going to regret this in the long run...

no_6_oh_no

Usually to get the 315's to fit you need the leveling kit for the front. I am surprised you don't have rubbing problems now. The leveling kit is not bad if you do the good springs and new roll bar links. With the ratio in that trans you really need the 35's for good mileage. The .79 OD is a killer in the commute.

I have run Toyos consistently. The MT's were the best set of any of them, over 40k with a LOT of trailering and playing. If I had rotated frequnetlyenough I would have hit 50k easy.

The Toyo AT's, not so good of luck. They seem too soft in the bigger tires, but, the 285's I had went 40k so it is probably the tire size difference.

And yes, it be a slippery slope when you start buying parts. Enjoy!

jasonh

Man, so much information to digest. What is an LP upgrade?