2006, no Airdog 100 or Fass 95, right?
#1
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2006, no Airdog 100 or Fass 95, right?
Hello. I just want to double check this. If I have an 06, and I want a fuel set up, I have to go inside the tank, right?
Thanx.
Thanx.
#2
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You can install a low pressure helper pump without messing with the tank, but if you go with the high-pressure, high-volume units like the FASS, Air Dog, and Walbro you need to mess with the tank.
#3
Registered User
If you don't want to drill in your tank just get an 05'-06' CRD Jeep Liberty cansister and replace your stock one. Only need the draw straw for Airdog 150. Part is $92 dollars. That is what I am going to do when the time is right. Do a search and you can find the part number. Set the factory pump to the side and save it for when or if you sell it.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
If you don't want to drill in your tank just get an 05'-06' CRD Jeep Liberty cansister and replace your stock one. Only need the draw straw for Airdog 150. Part is $92 dollars. That is what I am going to do when the time is right. Do a search and you can find the part number. Set the factory pump to the side and save it for when or if you sell it.
Thanx guys.
I just read the whole thread on the Jeep canister swap. Was it definitely a successful modification? It said no spllicing was needed, and the plug fits. Did I read that a dremel tool is needed at some point? The last post was about 2 weeks ago.
#5
I don't see what the big hoopla is over this jeep liberty canister. You still have to drop the tank and tear into it.If you take your time and cut the pick-up tube to the correct length you can suck every last drop of fuel out!I have ran mine well down to the E with no problems.I made my own pick-up with a piece of 1/2 inch aluminum tubing.Measured 5 times,cut once. Picked up everything needed from a local race shop for $35.
1. 90* bulkhead fitting w/ 2 plastic washers
2. 20" of aluminum 1/2" tubing
3. 1 #8 compression fitting
Just drill a hole approx. 4" from the canister(toward the front of the tank) Flare one end and connect to fitting. Then measure carfully and cut to length.
I carry my factory banjo bolt and fuel pump relay in the glove box.If for some reason my fass quit working it would only take 5 minutes to put it back stock.
Also I have drove my truck pulling a GN w/7,000lbs for over 100 miles with the fass unplugged(not on purpose) and the truck ran fine.The cp3 can pull enough fuel on its (thru the fass even) to keep you going.
1. 90* bulkhead fitting w/ 2 plastic washers
2. 20" of aluminum 1/2" tubing
3. 1 #8 compression fitting
Just drill a hole approx. 4" from the canister(toward the front of the tank) Flare one end and connect to fitting. Then measure carfully and cut to length.
I carry my factory banjo bolt and fuel pump relay in the glove box.If for some reason my fass quit working it would only take 5 minutes to put it back stock.
Also I have drove my truck pulling a GN w/7,000lbs for over 100 miles with the fass unplugged(not on purpose) and the truck ran fine.The cp3 can pull enough fuel on its (thru the fass even) to keep you going.
#7
it's just a hole.... I cut two in my tank today![CoffeeTime](https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/images/smilies/new1/coffeetime.gif)
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BTW taking the bed off is EASY
then you don't have to worry about the tank flexing from the jack or just plain setting it on ground...makes for a perfect drawstraw cut...I hope![Duhh](https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/images/smilies/new1/duhhh.gif)
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BTW taking the bed off is EASY
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#8
I'm not crazy about spending a bunch of unneccasary money! A little fuel resistant rtv and no worries.If you ever remove the pump and don't need the pickup just buy a $2 cap and be done with it
#10
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Thread Starter
I have been waiting on your results. Glad to know you are underway. I hope it all goes well with your install. I can't wait to read your results.
Thanx.
#12
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Did you complete the install yet? I can't wait to see your results and see how the install went.
#13
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I will post up soon as I am done.
#14
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Well you guys are going to hate me because I must have deleted it I can find out tomorrow though, I do remember it saying the new instructions will be in the products as they ship but as some of you know warehouses have them stocked so some wont be new yet
#15
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I don't see what the big hoopla is over this jeep liberty canister. You still have to drop the tank and tear into it.If you take your time and cut the pick-up tube to the correct length you can suck every last drop of fuel out!I have ran mine well down to the E with no problems.I made my own pick-up with a piece of 1/2 inch aluminum tubing.Measured 5 times,cut once. Picked up everything needed from a local race shop for $35.
1. 90* bulkhead fitting w/ 2 plastic washers
2. 20" of aluminum 1/2" tubing
3. 1 #8 compression fitting
Just drill a hole approx. 4" from the canister(toward the front of the tank) Flare one end and connect to fitting. Then measure carfully and cut to length.
I carry my factory banjo bolt and fuel pump relay in the glove box.If for some reason my fass quit working it would only take 5 minutes to put it back stock.
Also I have drove my truck pulling a GN w/7,000lbs for over 100 miles with the fass unplugged(not on purpose) and the truck ran fine.The cp3 can pull enough fuel on its (thru the fass even) to keep you going.
1. 90* bulkhead fitting w/ 2 plastic washers
2. 20" of aluminum 1/2" tubing
3. 1 #8 compression fitting
Just drill a hole approx. 4" from the canister(toward the front of the tank) Flare one end and connect to fitting. Then measure carfully and cut to length.
I carry my factory banjo bolt and fuel pump relay in the glove box.If for some reason my fass quit working it would only take 5 minutes to put it back stock.
Also I have drove my truck pulling a GN w/7,000lbs for over 100 miles with the fass unplugged(not on purpose) and the truck ran fine.The cp3 can pull enough fuel on its (thru the fass even) to keep you going.
For every 1 person who has no trouble 9 other have fuel starving issues. I'd prefer to try the Jeep canister.