2006 blown freeze plug!
01-07-2007, 11:44 PM
#17
I blew the plug getting on the freeway. We were just doing a test run just got everything put on the new long block. I want to know why this happened i was not even stacking. My truck blew up a few months ago and I just rebuilt it so i want it to work right. I dont think the boost was that high it couldnt have been I only was running the edge on 5. I need more info on why this would happen. Pl
was your truck warmed up!!!!!!
01-07-2007, 11:53 PM
#18
they are all over the engine block silver cap looking thing recessed into the block.
I have never heard of reinforcing them???I don't think you can.
It could ruin your engine if you kept driving and did not notice your temp gauge buried in the red.
it's not a very common thing to have happen I would not worry to much unless you are bombed like blackbeast
01-08-2007, 12:41 AM
#21
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seems like the back plug (the one below the head and above the tranny) like to blow. ive heard of stock trucks blowing them but not as much as modded trucks. not sure if its because its the hottest cylinder or what. heres my post and how i fixed it from a when my blew.
lmills,
heres what i did and what youll need to do it. probaly other ways but this is how i ended up doin it. the plate i used is 1/4'' thick x 2 1/2 wide x 9 1/2'' long. the 2 bolts u need are m-12 -1.75- 30 . there are 2 bolt holes about 3 inches on each side of the plug. since its hard to get to and you cant see the holes without a mirror i drilled a hole in 1 side of the plate and the other side i just cut a 2 inch slot so i had some room for error. shouldnt hurt anything since im using washers. i put the plug in as far as it would go with my hand and pushed it the rest of the way tightning the 2 bolts. now that keeps the plug flush with the block but the other plugs are reccesed about a 1/8 inch or so. after i had it in flush i then took some scrap metal and cut it to fit inside the plug since the plug is cupped shaped. i let the scrap metal stick out about a 1/8 of an inch so when the plate went flush it moved the plug in that 1/8. hopefully it all holds well. i cant see how this thing would ever come out again on its own.
lmills,
heres what i did and what youll need to do it. probaly other ways but this is how i ended up doin it. the plate i used is 1/4'' thick x 2 1/2 wide x 9 1/2'' long. the 2 bolts u need are m-12 -1.75- 30 . there are 2 bolt holes about 3 inches on each side of the plug. since its hard to get to and you cant see the holes without a mirror i drilled a hole in 1 side of the plate and the other side i just cut a 2 inch slot so i had some room for error. shouldnt hurt anything since im using washers. i put the plug in as far as it would go with my hand and pushed it the rest of the way tightning the 2 bolts. now that keeps the plug flush with the block but the other plugs are reccesed about a 1/8 inch or so. after i had it in flush i then took some scrap metal and cut it to fit inside the plug since the plug is cupped shaped. i let the scrap metal stick out about a 1/8 of an inch so when the plate went flush it moved the plug in that 1/8. hopefully it all holds well. i cant see how this thing would ever come out again on its own.
01-08-2007, 12:52 AM
#22
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The plate is supposed to show up tomorrow and they are going to install it with the u bolts I suppose. IS it common for this to happen to trucks that are not warmed up. Im assuming the mechanic warmed it up. If he did is that why? DOes not seem likely. My main question is what happens next time when it wants to blow and cant becasue there is a steel plate there. WHere does the pressure go? DOes it just stay in or try to blow somewhere else. I know my truck will run better when the downloader is intstalled. Any new thoughts?
01-08-2007, 01:04 AM
#23
Here is my "thought" when the truck is NOT warmed up the coolant has no where to go when you floor it, the water pump is still pumping (pumping hard at WOT) but the thermostat is closed and the fluid can not make it's complete circulation of fluid and starts to build pressure (in just the block)until it pops the weakest link. weakest link being a small thin piece of tin that is made to pop out/freeze plug.
judge88, how long have you been running on that fix????
judge88, how long have you been running on that fix????
01-08-2007, 01:31 AM
#24
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They just put in a new long block. So I have not been runnin it long at all. This all happened on a test run. Im going to ask the mechanic how long he warmed up the new block before taking off. Im sure he did but your explanation makes so much sense. I got lucky by the time we got it back to the shop it never got passed 215 mainly was at 213.
01-08-2007, 08:14 AM
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Was it the freeze plug on the rear of the head? If so it is the first 06 I have heard of blowing out. The plug looks a lot different on 06s and there are no threaded holes back there other than your fuel return. Tim
01-08-2007, 11:09 AM
#28
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Hey timinva hows it going. Man I tho9ught or sure i would habe 700but with what you have compared to what I HAVE i THINK IM NOT GONNA MAKE IT. aNYWAY WHO CARES i JUST WANT THE TRUck to run right. It is the plug in the back of the motor. first one I heard blowing. Are those all the parts you9 used to make 662HP. Someday when i dyno if I dont make my quest to700 on #2 only I will look for bigger nozzles. Timinva why doese the plug blow . Is my truck running wrong?
01-08-2007, 11:47 AM
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I did not have the twin cp3s, cam or springs when I dynoed 662hp. I think the freeze plugs come out do to high rpm and the thermostat not opening fast enough(water pump pressure). I removed the brass plugs from my thermostsat to keep a small amount of flow even with the motor cold. This should help with the freeze plugs but does increase warm up time. I block about 2/3 of my radiator during the winter to help warm up and keep the thermostat open.
01-08-2007, 11:48 AM
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lmills,
heres what i did and what youll need to do it. probaly other ways but this is how i ended up doin it. the plate i used is 1/4'' thick x 2 1/2 wide x 9 1/2'' long. the 2 bolts u need are m-12 -1.75- 30 . there are 2 bolt holes about 3 inches on each side of the plug. since its hard to get to and you cant see the holes without a mirror i drilled a hole in 1 side of the plate and the other side i just cut a 2 inch slot so i had some room for error. shouldnt hurt anything since im using washers. i put the plug in as far as it would go with my hand and pushed it the rest of the way tightning the 2 bolts. now that keeps the plug flush with the block but the other plugs are reccesed about a 1/8 inch or so. after i had it in flush i then took some scrap metal and cut it to fit inside the plug since the plug is cupped shaped. i let the scrap metal stick out about a 1/8 of an inch so when the plate went flush it moved the plug in that 1/8. hopefully it all holds well. i cant see how this thing would ever come out again on its own.
heres what i did and what youll need to do it. probaly other ways but this is how i ended up doin it. the plate i used is 1/4'' thick x 2 1/2 wide x 9 1/2'' long. the 2 bolts u need are m-12 -1.75- 30 . there are 2 bolt holes about 3 inches on each side of the plug. since its hard to get to and you cant see the holes without a mirror i drilled a hole in 1 side of the plate and the other side i just cut a 2 inch slot so i had some room for error. shouldnt hurt anything since im using washers. i put the plug in as far as it would go with my hand and pushed it the rest of the way tightning the 2 bolts. now that keeps the plug flush with the block but the other plugs are reccesed about a 1/8 inch or so. after i had it in flush i then took some scrap metal and cut it to fit inside the plug since the plug is cupped shaped. i let the scrap metal stick out about a 1/8 of an inch so when the plate went flush it moved the plug in that 1/8. hopefully it all holds well. i cant see how this thing would ever come out again on its own.
Would a piece of hard plastic or hard rubber be a better idea? I'm picturing metal on metal + vibration on a thin surace might lead to a hole in the plug.