trik396

Yes I did with pics and all... don't know where it's at though... maybe another site, as I can't post pics here for some reason...

I used a ratchet with a 3/8" socket on the end if I remember correctly. Most holes I tapped got the nuts flush with the top of the stud. Some studs are a few threads above. The outside studs on the exhaust side are the highest with maybe 3-4 threads above the nut. I just couldn't tap any deeper and didn't want to snap the tap...

jrussell

Has there ever been a case of someone not bottom tapping and the studs ripping out of the block?

I remember reading an old post/email from ARP and they said there was no need to bottom tap on a Cummins.

cquestad

Install error claims WAY more headgaskets than stretched ARP 2000's.

IS 80 psi of boost enough for you? LOL.

If I was going to run a bunch of drugs and shoot for the 1000's in hp...I would then consider the 625's...other than that why? Spend the time...pull the head...bottom tap....use a new gasket...clean/check/deck the mating surfaces and get the warm fuzzy feeling from bonding just a little deeper with the your mighty Cummins! Your arm will get sore anyways by the time you do the torque sequence...and then do it again after 500-1000 easy miles.

Justice4all

What is the most common install error?

lmills could you shed some light on your personal experience?

cquestad

Mistorque, cutting corners on the torque sequence, not retorqueing after 500-1000 miles of babied heat cycles, uneven, rough or not true/flat head or block, failure to clean mating surfaces...etc etc.

It seemed pretty simple to me...but I don't make a living doing it and was not looking to save any time! Slow and Steady!

Sniper05

Is it necesary to do a retourqe if you don't have to pull the head, i always thought you only did a re-tourqe if you had to replace the gasket, if the gasket is already seated then why would you have to do a re-tourqe? I am planning on installing studs soon and i think i read somewere on the site about bottom tapping to clear the injector harness is this true? I don't want to bottom tap if i don't have to!

Chad

jmccart

To retorque the studs, can they all be accessed by just removing the valve cover? Or are there rocker arms, injector parts, spring parts, etc. that have to come off to retorque them?

Thanx.

trik396

Everything has to come off again just as when you installed the studs. Having said that, I did 3 torque sequences when I installed my studs. And I haven't touched them since. My head wasn't off and my gasket remained in place. Talking with ARP before I did this and this is what they recommended. Once the studs were streched after the third re-torque they said they would not stretch anymore. They should know. Been to 52 psi boost too many times to recall with not a problem. Maybe... just maybe if I'm feeling ambitious this spring, I'll pull everything and go over them again.

cquestad

Heat affects the studs...

I would do the retorque no matter what...and like I said...why not pull the head and get to know your engine! You may not like what you see!

All you have to do is pull the valve covers and the rockers...retorque...and reinstall...no biggy. Gives you a chance to check valve lash again etc.

53 willys

so ARP says no bottom tapping needed and the dodge guys all say to bottom tap......so is it needed on the CR's or not??? tapping it would be easy and I got no problem doing it..but if you dont need it then I would skip it..
what do you all think...
Christen does a guy have to put a new gasket in.. I thought I read that a bunch of people install the studs without replacing the gasket??....seems like it would be better to change it while your so close..but what do you think???
Thanks

cquestad

You don't have too...

But, I wanted to inspect my cylinders...you may not like what you see and it would be better to find that out NOW then after the tiwns, injectors, cam, etc etc etc... The gasket is not that expensive and you will gain the piece of mind that all of the work performed is up to snuff. Sometimes OEM head bolts come unevenly torqued and who knows what happens to that gasket??

Good excuse to clean up the head...inspect valves, seats, injector tips, and change VALVE SPRINGS!

jrussell

Man...now you have me wantin' to pull the head off with 17k miles!

cquestad

jrussell,

You need to drive more! 17k? LOL.

I have almost just rolled 140k...

I am sure you are fine...

I just like to eliminate as many variables as possible when I do something...so the "unthought" never comes back to bite you in the ****...

jrussell

I hear you about doing it right the first time.

I do need to drive more. About 5k+ of those miles are from a couple of long trips too. I work out of a home office, so I don't get to leave the house as often as I would like.

jmccart

I would love to take the head off and do every mod I can, even the zz-fabs intake & porting. But there is now realistic way I will have that much cash anytime soon. I have to space this stuff out. I got my AD150 yesterday. After that a turbo. After that maybe the standard ARP studs and valve-springs. Maybe after that, when retorquing, some injectors. I think I will be happy with a better street/tow turbo and valve springs though.

I also want things like a front locker & free-spin hubs.