10 ply 35" tires (17" rims)
#61
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you have to compare apples to apples, i ran the BFG all terrians, which are a 315/70/17, D rated tire, its a great tire for everyday driving, and decent traction, its pretty close to a 35" tire, and hauled my 16' car hauler just fine, with no more then 6000lbs.
now, i had those tires on the truck when i bought my new trailer, 22' deck over, rated at 14000lbs, weighs 4200lbs with nothing on it. truck towed that trailer much differently then the smaller trailer. now when i loaded up the new trailer, with a truck on it, the rear tires were bulging, and were squishy, not a nice feeling when towing. i now have the vortrac's, and they tow much nicer, firmer feel. same size tire pretty much, these are slightly bigger, E rated, and take more psi in the tire. if i keep this trailer, i will stick with the E rated tire for sure. if i decide to go to a larger tire(37's) i might consider the D rated tire again, cause most of them still take the higher psi pressure, and have the same load rating as the smaller E rated tire. i most likely will be running a Toyo MT in a 37" tire, cause i love the looks, and decent traction, and i believe they are an E rated tire anyway.
buy what you feel safe with, and what the pocket book will allow, with your given situation and what you do with your truck.without rubber to the ground, you got nothing.
now, i had those tires on the truck when i bought my new trailer, 22' deck over, rated at 14000lbs, weighs 4200lbs with nothing on it. truck towed that trailer much differently then the smaller trailer. now when i loaded up the new trailer, with a truck on it, the rear tires were bulging, and were squishy, not a nice feeling when towing. i now have the vortrac's, and they tow much nicer, firmer feel. same size tire pretty much, these are slightly bigger, E rated, and take more psi in the tire. if i keep this trailer, i will stick with the E rated tire for sure. if i decide to go to a larger tire(37's) i might consider the D rated tire again, cause most of them still take the higher psi pressure, and have the same load rating as the smaller E rated tire. i most likely will be running a Toyo MT in a 37" tire, cause i love the looks, and decent traction, and i believe they are an E rated tire anyway.
buy what you feel safe with, and what the pocket book will allow, with your given situation and what you do with your truck.without rubber to the ground, you got nothing.
#62
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Ratings on tires are as follows C=6 ply D=8ply E=10ply, now weight ratings are based on index you will see a number like 125Q it is the weight which that tire can hold at max tire pressure for 2kilometers of travel cold. So for the non science guys and not pissing anyone off you could theoritically have a C rated tire that can hold 3000lbs at 50 psi but that tire is going to break down faster due to heat caused by friction than a D or E rated tire. Weight ratings are tricky but more plys is better due to these are trucks not cars. Flame away I know some will say well I have used D rated tires and they have 3600lb rating but it is not the same. Its in the plys.
#63
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You're the only person I've come across with the Vortracs pullin, sure wish I had some idea what they look like, the picture on their website sucks...
#65
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[QUOTE=coiler33;2400899]Ratings on tires are as follows C=6 ply D=8ply E=10ply, now weight ratings are based on index you will see a number like 125Q it is [QUOTE]
Now this can be a bit misleading as well, a load range "E" tire carries a 10 ply rating but doesn't neccessarily mean it has 10 plies. Check some tire sidewalls, the fine print lists how many plies and what they're made of in it's construction and quite often they don't have as many plies as you'd think. No question an E rated tire is better for heavy use but alot of "D" rated tires are more than sufficient for what these trucks can safely tow.
Now this can be a bit misleading as well, a load range "E" tire carries a 10 ply rating but doesn't neccessarily mean it has 10 plies. Check some tire sidewalls, the fine print lists how many plies and what they're made of in it's construction and quite often they don't have as many plies as you'd think. No question an E rated tire is better for heavy use but alot of "D" rated tires are more than sufficient for what these trucks can safely tow.
#66
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BTW...has anyone actually cut a sidewall open to look?
My last XAT's and the BFG MT's before...both 3500 lb plus rated had sidewalls pushing 1/2" thick vs the 1/4" of the OEM tires...
They also had much more substantial looking belts/cords and beads.
Smokey fun with a cut off wheel!
My last XAT's and the BFG MT's before...both 3500 lb plus rated had sidewalls pushing 1/2" thick vs the 1/4" of the OEM tires...
They also had much more substantial looking belts/cords and beads.
Smokey fun with a cut off wheel!
#68
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[QUOTE=CookieMonster;2401026][QUOTE=coiler33;2400899]Ratings on tires are as follows C=6 ply D=8ply E=10ply, now weight ratings are based on index you will see a number like 125Q it is
Now this can be a bit misleading as well, a load range "E" tire carries a 10 ply rating but doesn't neccessarily mean it has 10 plies. Check some tire sidewalls, the fine print lists how many plies and what they're made of in it's construction and quite often they don't have as many plies as you'd think. No question an E rated tire is better for heavy use but alot of "D" rated tires are more than sufficient for what these trucks can safely tow.
I wish the ply rating would just go away. It's redundant and misleading.
Now this can be a bit misleading as well, a load range "E" tire carries a 10 ply rating but doesn't neccessarily mean it has 10 plies. Check some tire sidewalls, the fine print lists how many plies and what they're made of in it's construction and quite often they don't have as many plies as you'd think. No question an E rated tire is better for heavy use but alot of "D" rated tires are more than sufficient for what these trucks can safely tow.
#69
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I can tell you from personal experience that a 285/75/17 Toyo with E rating is a MUCH stiffer and stronger tire than a 285/70/17 BFG. The Toyos easily carry the same weight at a much lower pressure if so desired.
The sidewall, before mounting, feels like it's already aired up in the Toyo. Very stiff. I ran a set of BFGs and got a small slice in the sidewall that was not into the cord and in a couple thousand more miles it blew out at that spot.
Someone here posted a video of a truck on a dyno with load D tires on it and you could see the sidewall of the tire wrinkling from the torque. Not sagging but the wheel winding up a bit and wrinkling the tire. Made me think about those hot days with a trailer in the mountains and pulling hard. No thanks.
So, after 100,000 miles + with D rated tires and discovering the real E rated Toyos I'm sold and will never go back to D rated regardless of what the load capacity is rated at.
Besides, picking a D rated tire just because that brand and size does not come in E is a poor choice. If two identical tires, size and brand, are there at the tire store and one is E and one is D, and you could have either one, would you pick the D over the E? Give me the E. The only advantage to D is price or availability in some cases. Not in performance. Get the E and be done with trying to say they are the same. Your truck, your stuff and your family are depending on them.
One final point: Using the terms "10 ply rating " or "8 ply rating", or whatever, on these modern radial tires should be illegal. They are all either 2 ply or 3 ply sidewall with about 5 plies in the tread area. Those terms are totally misleading and used as a sales pitch. It's false advertising. I've pointed it out even to tire salesmen and had them tell me they are actually 10 ply. They just spread that nonsense and keep selling the tires as something they are not.
The sidewall, before mounting, feels like it's already aired up in the Toyo. Very stiff. I ran a set of BFGs and got a small slice in the sidewall that was not into the cord and in a couple thousand more miles it blew out at that spot.
Someone here posted a video of a truck on a dyno with load D tires on it and you could see the sidewall of the tire wrinkling from the torque. Not sagging but the wheel winding up a bit and wrinkling the tire. Made me think about those hot days with a trailer in the mountains and pulling hard. No thanks.
So, after 100,000 miles + with D rated tires and discovering the real E rated Toyos I'm sold and will never go back to D rated regardless of what the load capacity is rated at.
Besides, picking a D rated tire just because that brand and size does not come in E is a poor choice. If two identical tires, size and brand, are there at the tire store and one is E and one is D, and you could have either one, would you pick the D over the E? Give me the E. The only advantage to D is price or availability in some cases. Not in performance. Get the E and be done with trying to say they are the same. Your truck, your stuff and your family are depending on them.
One final point: Using the terms "10 ply rating " or "8 ply rating", or whatever, on these modern radial tires should be illegal. They are all either 2 ply or 3 ply sidewall with about 5 plies in the tread area. Those terms are totally misleading and used as a sales pitch. It's false advertising. I've pointed it out even to tire salesmen and had them tell me they are actually 10 ply. They just spread that nonsense and keep selling the tires as something they are not.
#70
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Yeah, after my experience with the D rated Coopers I knew wanted E rated 35's to go with the leveling kit but didn't want a mud terrain so I ordered the 35x12.50R17LT Interco Vortracs.
http://www.intercotire.com/tires.php?id=17&g=1
Will post some pics once I get them mounted ontpo the H2's (after getting them machined) and get the leveling kit installed.
Thanks guys
Will
http://www.intercotire.com/tires.php?id=17&g=1
Will post some pics once I get them mounted ontpo the H2's (after getting them machined) and get the leveling kit installed.
Thanks guys
Will
#71
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Will,
Let me know what those tires are like on the snow / mud. I believe you are in the mountains occasionally - kinda interested in the results with gravel too. How much and where? (PM me with that if you wish)
Thanks.
Let me know what those tires are like on the snow / mud. I believe you are in the mountains occasionally - kinda interested in the results with gravel too. How much and where? (PM me with that if you wish)
Thanks.
#72
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Will do.
I've only found 1 other guy running the Vortracs and that was 'pullin hard' and he hasn't had them that long.
They were C$376 at NSOR:
http://www.nsor.com/
I've only found 1 other guy running the Vortracs and that was 'pullin hard' and he hasn't had them that long.
They were C$376 at NSOR:
http://www.nsor.com/
#74
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... I ordered the 35x12.50R17LT Interco Vortracs. http://www.intercotire.com/tires.php?id=17&g=1
My new Pro Comp Xtreme 35/70/17D's are 3 ply Nylon sidewall. Which tire is really stronger and safer??
After reading the Four Wheel Magazine report (above) the Vortracs sound great.
But with your main concern being strength, I'm wondering how there really compare.
RJ
#75
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"NEVER inflate beyond 40 psi to seat the beads".
I have never actually read everything on these sticky labels before. I'm curious why you think they say this?
Is this just covering their butts for saftey reasons or....?
RJ