JD Dearden

I think this is funny, this has alot to do with how you approach your truck. I say dump that stock garbage and go all out, but most people don't think like that. Also auto trannies produce heat constantly. I have owned trucks and have had the tranny just drop out of the blue and I have had them start to go and hang on for a long time, and this was never due to abnormal abuse. As far as the original question I say keep it until it goes and if it goes then replace the whole thing.

omaharam

Call and talk to Dave Goerend. Don't tell him you want to be at 450hp. Tell him you want to be 525-550, that will leave you some room to grow. Talk to him about what you plan to do with your truck and how you drive it. If you tell him the same thing you are telling us, he will tell you that you shouldn't buy shafts. He is turning down money for the sake of honesty. If you are under 600hp and truthfully use the truck as you are describing, you do not need more than a TC and VB. If you call around to the tranny places, most of them are willing to let you write a bigger check to them. Most of them are also big companies out for the most profit possible. Dave has taken over a family owned business and lives in a town of 100 people where everyone waves at even the stanger driving through town. Dave will tell you the truth. He told me to go with just a VB and TC, and I believe him. Why? Because I like to pull my 31' TT with everything turned up and leave a stop light with the guy next to me goin' "Holy Crap!"

Mcmopar

Sounds like I am in the CIA questioning booth---The truth and nothing but the truth!!! . Anyways he as drag racing it when it broke.

Normal driving??? Open ended--I tore up a tranny at 340 HP, it was bone stock, but none the less. I don't believe you have been at 450HP for all 47K either. It might last a year at that level with the TC/VB. Keep in mind a good TC "loads" the tranny earlier than that stock piece of junk does, and that will tear it up much sooner.
The reason Dodge has been able to keep trannies alive so long is that the TC is so loose it is great for a gas job. The one I just took out of my truck would "flash" to 2400 without the truck beginning to move.

omaharam

As long as I've got you tied to a chair with a spotlight over your head....

Ok, he was drag racing. I bet he was also doing boosted launches - yes? Tell the truth or I cut off a finger.

And no, I haven't been at 450hp for 47k. However, at about 5k I was 425ish and for the last 20k I have been well over 450hp.

Look, if I had $20,000 to just dump into my truck I'd buy the strongest tranny money can buy. Most guys are on a budget and I'm guessing this is no exception. The point is, if you are careful to what point you abuse it, a TC and VB will hold 450hp for 100k+ miles.

He can listen to us argue the point for days. My advise is still to call Dave Goerend - who knows much more about the 48re than either one of us - and go with what he recommends.

Here - let me loosen those cuffs a little.

rkelley

OK - called HTS Transmissions and Sun Coast Transmissions today and received pretty much the same response. My 48RE can run the Bully Dog Triple Dog on Extreme (130HP) setting with an upgraded VB, TC, and input shaft. Dusty (at HTS) recommended a Flex Plate while Joe at Sun Coast recommended the extra deep oil pan. Based upon my needs (daily driver, no track racing, weekend camper pulling, under 500HP), both guys said a full-built tranny is not necessary. However, if I get stupid with the truck (20PSI launches at the track), I will eventually need a better transmission.

As a point of reference, HTS quoted me approximately $2800 for the Flex Plate, Billet Input Shaft, upgraded Valve Body, and Torque Converter. Sun Coast quoted me $2523 for a Billet Input Shaft, upgraded Valve Body, and Torque Converter. Without the Flex Plate, both companies appear to be within a few dollars of each other. Both guys appear to be very competent and helpful. In the end, I would purchase the gear from one company vs the other if/when I can find a competent builder in my local area (Raleigh, NC) who knows the particular product. I suspect both products are equally strong - I just need to find a local tech who knows the product.

As an aside, I learned HTS actually uses the Sun Coast Torque Converter in their package...

I hope this helps other folks.

Mcmopar

OK, Yes, 10-15lb boosted launches.

I will agree with you, you can run "mild" power and get away with the VB and TC, but my experience with people has been " I never do this and I only want XXX HP" then the next time you see the truck the power is "way" above the original projection and the "I never do ______" has been done and stuff is broken.
I told you I tore one up at 340 HP, I was brutal to it, and I had the new billet unit on the floor!! The tranny in my truck now has tons on goodies and extra's-I built it myself with help from Dave. I know Dave quite well and know what he will tell you!! My father on the other hand a a 310 HP truck that I built a trans for, no billet shafts, only the apply servo. I did upgrade the Front (direct) drum to have one more clutch. He tows all the time at a GVW of about 24-26K, and has had no trouble. He did this with the stock tranny up to 60,000 miles, at that point the TC lockup died.

The way I look at it, if you are gonna spend $2,000.00 on the TC/VB, why not add another grand or so in parts and have a better "insurance" policy?? When the tranny is out to do the TC is the optimal time to do at least the billet input and posibly an upgraded drum.

I know it is a lot of money, I saved for a long time before I "jumped", I am only going to 500-575 HP and then turning my attention on my other truck. Yes I "might" have overbuilt my tranny, but that is what I do best!!

I don't see this as an argument, I see your point as much as my own!!

NB64

I'm waiting for the tranny to act up before going all out. I thought long and hard about the V/B and a T/C. But in the end my trans is working fine. So I decided to wait then do it the right way. It seems that if you go to either Suncoast or HTS you can a full built (minus the shafts and flex plate) for a bit over three K. If its the money why not wait until you have more and do it just once. Just a thought from somebody once in your position. I tow 11K regularly with the quad standard on the 60hp setting. plenty of passing/climbing power and 14mpg to boot. Never a hiccup. Good luck whatever you do.

973604x4

why no mention of DTT?

subspd

Thanks for all the input.
I have a good friend that builds trannies for racers all the time and I am trying to get a handle on the cost to do this right on a tighter budget. I think the VB/TC/BI and a double deep pan should be all I need. I will call Dave and see what he says about it.

rkelley

Not sure. Can someone call them and get some specific info (price, parts, etc)?

nfsommer

great post

973604x4

$1050....converter
$500....valve body


Those ARE NOT DTT direct, but through a DTT dealer....prices may have changed by now

Mcmopar

Be careful when comparing, that DTT converter is not a triple, is it?? Dave G's triple is around 1200 bucks, his singles are CONSIDERABLY less.

973604x4

these "singles" handle high horsepower daily across the continent. Call DTT and ask why they don't use triples. if they don't like to talk about competitors productors, PM me and i'll get you a phone number of a guy who will tell you why DTT is different (and IMO better).

another interesting bit.....i have a stock flex plate in my truck. theres an 800hp 12 valve in OK with a stock flexplate, most DTT trucks have stock flex plates. hmmmmm i haven't quite figured that out yet.

this comes across as a DTT ad....but trust me i have no affiliation. I'm simply a very happy customer...i've done the homework comparing DTT, Goerend, and Suncoast....ATS was never considered.

Mcmopar

Funny thing about that, I have heard from multiple people that DTT has been working on a triple!! I cannot back that up, but its been talked about.

There is nothing wrong with a triple, just like the number of folks using a multi-plate clutch.