I realize that this is not a question that specifically pertains to a diesel equipped Dodge, but I thought it was related enough to ask it anyway.

Basically, I need to get some suggestions on how to remove a stripped-out NV242 transfer case fill plug.

The quick lube place that has been servicing my 1999 Dodge Dakota pickup for quite some time recently stripped-out the fill plug in my NV242 transfer case. What I mean by stripped-out is not the threads of the plug or the case, but the hex socket itself in the fill plug. The inside corners of the 10mm hex socket have been completely rounded-off so a 10mm hex wrench or 10mm male hex socket just spins around inside the hex socket area of the fill plug. I tried to use my largest extractor which is a #6 (13/32") unit, however, because of the initial smaller diameter taper, the extractor prematurely bottoms-out in the fill plug's shallow hex socket area before the larger diameter portion of the extractor can engage the sides of the rounded-out hex socket walls, so it can't get any bite. I don't have any larger metric or SAE hex wrenches (or larger extractors for that matter), so I am pretty much stuck at this point. I thought of hammering in a chisel into the hex socket, but decided against that as I might end up damaging the threads cut into the softer aluminum case of the transfer case.

Based on all of this, does anyone have any words of wisdom or suggestions as to how I can safely remove the fill plug?

 

drill it out, tap it with a reverse thread tap, reverse thread bolt bottomed out?

 

Thanks for the input. Based on another response I received elsewhere, I am first going to try sacrificing my extractor by cutting down the tapered portion until I can get a bite in the hex socket head portion of the fill plug. I will also heat the case area up around the fill plug with my MAPP gas torch when I go to extract the plug. If that doesn't work, I will likely try your idea.

 

Man, what a deal. Clearly, the extractor is heat treated & hardened. I first tried to cut it down with a hacksaw and it wouldn't even put a scratch in it. I then used a sharp tool makers triangular file, and got a scratch started, but after using two different hacksaws (one with a brand new high-quality metal cutting blade), they wouldn't even put a dent in it. I then switched to my small diameter cut-off saw with a diamond blade. After two cuts, it basically did the diamond blade in, but I finally got through it.

After heating the case around the fill plug with my MAPP gas torch, I then got the cut-down extractor to bite into the fill plug. I first tried a 12mm open end wrench, but it wasn't long enough, so I couldn't exert enough torque to break the plug free. I then moved up to a 1/2" crows-foot socket with a 3/8" socket wrench, and finally two longer Crescent wrenches, but none of them were able to break the plug free. It's getting pretty cold here now, so I am going to wait until tomorrow to try again with larger (longer) wrenches after I remove the transfer case skid plate which is hampering my getting a more direct purchase on the extractor in the plug.

I may be dreaming, but it almost looks like someone used some form of thread locker on the plug, as it looks and acts like it is literally glued in place. Hopefully I can get it broken free tomorrow.

 

I'll bet who ever changed it last left you a present then. I will bet that they cross threaded the plug in place.

 

I had the same problem w/ my 95. So...I welded a hex wrench to it. Now I never need to find the wrench. :-))

 

That's what I was gonna say. Weld a bolt to it. If that won't budge it you will need to heat up the case and then pop it loose. Doubt it is cross threaded. Most of the time this means it got real hot at one time or another.

 

I suppose it's possible, but from what I can see of the plug (which admittedly isn't much), it doesn't look cross-threaded. Hopefully it isn't, but I suppose I'll find out tomorrow.

 

Don't weld a wrench or bolt to it, weld a nut to it! Much easier and better result. It should come out then and the welding heat should help with any "sealant" somone may have used.

 

I don't personally have any welding equipment, so I am just going to try again tomorrow using the extractor with the skid plate off. If that doesn't work, then I may head into town to get someone to do the welding thing.

 

I was going to say grind off the end of the extractor to get a better match/fit in the hole but it looks like you got that information already. I would shy away from drilling it out as the debris would end up in the case.

Tell your quick lube place to buy you a new plug and to spring for a torque wrench to help prevent this in the future.

 

You bet! They were the ones who stripped it out at my last service when they were trying to get it out and told me about it. Once I get it loosened up and get back in their shop on Monday, they are definitely going to either supply me with a new fill plug or buy one.

 

why can't ya just put a box end wrench to it ? isnt it a torx socket plug ? my 95 is but it has the shape of a big nut.

 

If you are asking me, the end of the extractor is square, and I already used a 12mm and 1/2" open end wrench on it, but the length of both of those wrenches were too short to get enough torque to break the plug free. I then moved up to a crows-foot, and then larger Crescent wrenches, but they wouldn't do the trick either. As I previously indicated, I will remove the transfer case skid plate tomorrow so I can hopefully get an even bigger wrench on the end of the extractor to give it another shot.

And in the case of my NV242 transfer case fill and drain plugs, they are hex socket head plugs that take a 10mm hex wrench (that is, when they haven't been already stripped-out). They are definitely not Torx, nor any form of nut or protruding type of plug.

 

If you want to come to phoenix i'll get it out for you. TOM