warriorboomz33

I've read several posts about the subject code and wanted to share my experience. A couple of days ago, my truck (2007 2500 6.7, stock everything) had some issues start. It would turn a little longer than normal upon start up but after it started, there was a feint clicking sound coming from the drivers side that would happen for about 5 seconds after startup and then it would go away. The "lightning bolt" indicator would light up along with the check engine light.

After reading several posts on this subject, I went ahead and did what worked for about 90% of everyone on this forum. I went to autozone and bought two Duralast Gold batteries rated at 850 cold cranking amps ($131.99 each). I wasn't sure how much I needed in terms of cranking amps, but the extra sounded like it would be good to have. I went ahead and changed the batteries, cleared the codes and she started up with no troubles. My concern now is that maybe something might be wrong with the alternator or there might be some other electrical issue that I might find out about in the near future. At that point, I'll just bring it to the dealership and have them figure it out. At least I have two brand new batteries. For now, she seems to be running like a champ.

I wanted to thank this forum for all the help. You all have been great.

-W

Gatorama

Sounds like you are good to go. One bad battery can raise all kinds of strange issues with the computers in these trucks, and yours is at the age where the originals generally fail. If your voltmeter reads about in the middle, I would not lose any sleep worrying about other problems.

warriorboomz33

Gatorama, thanks. I don't have a voltmeter. Know of a place I can buy one for cheap? Also, what are the steps to test the battery?

Thanks.

-W

Gatorama

The voltmeter I was refering to is the one in the instrument panel, although there are many resonably priced multimeters to be had from places like Radio Shack, any auto parts place, or any hardware store. They are easy to use, and are just darned handy to have around the house. The "Ohms" scale is for continuity, ie checking fuses. As far as testing batteries, the only way to really know the condition is to have them "load tested", a free service at most auto parts places. This test, as the name implies, actually puts a resistance load on the battery to calculate the amperage available. A dead battery can still read 12 volts, but not be able to produce any current/amperage.

Dodgetracker

This just happened to me thursday. Had to get a jump from guy at work. Changed out both Batts GTG now.