aprilsuit

We had a GOLD 06 Dodge 3500 (AUTO)5.9L, we bought from a guy pretty cheap and it had some issues we thought may have had something to do with the fuel injector pump but we could'nt really pinpoint it, then when we had a guy who was going through and had a '06 dodge 3500 Dually (Auto) 5.9L,he said he had burnt the valves at 110,000 on odo, with a 2,000$ price tag, we jumped on it. We swapped engines and just our luck the engine is doing SAME THING IN BLACK TRUCK that it did in the GOLD truck it came out of.

Symptoms include:
Idle is FINE , HOWEVER, when you press accelerator and rev it a little and take your foot off it keeps revving up on its own, almost as though its sticking, and then back to normal idle.
It will idle fine until u press accelerator.
Then when you drive it, just as it did in the truck the engine came out of, it will hardly go anywhere, it's more than sluggish, more like dead pedal,
I cycled the key and the following codes came up in this order:
1749
0148
2509
0524
0480
1755
0513
0113
0107
0073
0462
0237
0300
2122
2127
0532
0646
0301
0302
We are open to any suggestions, please help!!!

RamGazer

Would it help you out any if you had description of each code?

aprilsuit

i have the descriptions of each and they cover everything : the electr. ctrl pressure solenoid failed low,
02 sensor,
ecm/pcm,
engine oil pressure too low,
fan 1 ctrl circuit,
intermediate speed sensor(ISS) malfunction,
incorrect immobilizer key,
intake air temp circuit high input,
manifold absolute pressure circuit too low,
ambient air temp sensor high,
fuel level sensor A circuit low,
random multiple cylinder misfire detected,
throttle/pedal position sensor/switch D circuit low input, throttle/pedal position sensor/switch E circuit low input,
a/c refridgerant pressure sensor A low,
a/c clutch relay control circuit low,
cylinder 1 misfire detected, and
cylinder 2 misfire detected
is this a voltage problem? I need suggestions or tests or any troubleshooting experience or advice that I can try here at home , I presently have no scanner available on hand and extremely low funds due to hospital/Physician visits and medications I have had to purchase out of pocket recently for my daughter, so I need to try what I can to avoid the dreaded high priced dodge dealer. Ive been reading everything I can on the forum.

06RAM2500

You got 2 or more injectors that are shot.

aprilsuit

I was hoping not but would be bout my luck, I have a 04 3500 also that had all new injectors put in by palestine injectors $ 2600 and then bout 500 miles later left me stranded in louisiana and towed back to palestine injectors who said water in fuel caused 3 of those new injectors to go south and i have water separator, and another $1500 it was.so i sure wasnt wanting it to be injectors.
But the diff between now and then is there is no rough idle or anything, sounds so good when sittin in park at idle. just no pedal when trying to move and the sticking like activity when accelerates during idle.

aprilsuit

i have ohm'd the injectors and all were between .5 and .7, took a laser thermometer with trucked running and the temp was 130 on 1st cylinder and 2,3,4 and 6 read 165 to 180 and the # 5 cylinder was reading 230. is this bad?

HerbW

Hi. I do know if you unhook anything electrical with the batteries still hooked up they will store codes even though you restored the connection. Sounds to me like you needed an OBDII tool to clear all these codes and start anew. My guess is your throttle control under the dash that tells the ECM how much fuel to add. What did you find wrong to fix this?

Grit Dog

First clear the codes and see what comes back right away. Seems unlikely to have all those problems.
Main symptom sounds like the APPS (throttle pos sensor) but need to verify before throwing the $ at it.

dozer12216

you can clear codes without reader.
Suggest you look closelly at batteries, cables, and alternator. You cannot possiblly have that many faults....
test batteries out of truck(separatelly) and bench test alternator at favorite parts store. Then clean all electrical connections for batteries you can find. do not replace just one battery, but both if one bad....Make sure batteries fully charged.
Now to kill fault codes. put ignition key in pocket. Close all doors and electrical components off for at least two minutes. Remove BOTH positive cables. Wrap a cloth around one to insulate from a ground short. Now hold the other positive cable to the negative post of same battery. YOU ARE NOT SHORTING THE BATTERIES. You are shorting/grounding the wiring and all the capicators in computers. It takes away any radio sets also. Hold cable together for at least one minute. Now release and install positive cables to appropieate post. You will notice a small electrical arc which is OK.
Now take key out of pocket and start vehicle. All codes have been cleared but will come back if active code present.

marder

Any good injectors in the engine from the donor truck?

Grit Dog

I see we all responded to a 2 yr old thread over the last cpl months.
Gotta love it when the OP doesn't follow up weft asking for help!