imaybail

Searched a lot of threads but haven't found an answer to my problem yet.
My truck, 07.5 6.7 with all the deletes, 5 in. TBE, and running Smarty S67ME software. 66,000 miles and trouble free since the deletes. Good mileage.
Exhaust brake is intermittent. For the last week, it will work when engine is cold and warming up, but quits working when engine warms up to operating temps.
Also, the exhaust note becomes very deep and has a "fart can" type of sound, but performance seems to be normal.
I suspect that the nozzle has a habit of sticking in the open (non-braking) position, but not sure. I have checked all the fuses that might be related to the systems controlling the turbo, ECM, etc.
Any ideas on my problem?

Cummn&Smokn

Are you talking about at idle or during deceleration? If you're talking about at idle, it's programmed not to come on if the ambient air temp. is 60 or warmer. Also, it won't work after your water temp. reaches a certain point. (For some reason I'm thinking it's 175 degrees, although I'm not completely sure)
I have no idea about the exhaust note unless you're talking about at idle with the EB engaged. That's the only time I notice that mine sounds any different.

imaybail

The exhaust brake acts normal when the truck is cold. But when it warms up, it quits working and the exhaust note changes its tone. I'm suspecting the turbo is on it's way out, although the truck is not smoking or down on performance that I can tell by "seat of the pants" measure.

Lil Dog

Have you had the turbo cleaned? I know its a dealer thing but that might get some life out of it. There is a thread sticky posted in the 3G area about it.

Cummn&Smokn

All I'm saying is that the turbo and water temperature (to the best of my knowledge) are only linked by the warm-up feature, you know, the one that tells the EB to kick off at idle when the water temperature gets to either 160 or 170 degrees? If it is working when it's cold and not when it's hot it seems to me that the computer is TELLING it not to work for some reason. I see no reason that a "cold" turbo should act any different than a "hot" one in that aspect. Also, I do believe that if your 'charger needed cleaning that your EB wouldn't work at all. (that's the way I've always seen it happen anyway) So I guess what I'm trying to say in all of my incoherent rambling is that I would think that there is a problem with a relay or a sensor that tells the EB when to engage and disengage. I'm sure there is somebody here that would know where they might be located and how to check them.

AH64ID

You haven't clarified if this is only at idle or while attempting to use the EB for deceleration.

The exhaust brake feature can also be used to reduce the
engine warm up time. To use the exhaust brake as a
warm-up device, the vehicle must be moving less than 5
mph (8 km/h), the exhaust brake switch must be in the
ON position, and the coolant temperature must below
180°F (82°C) and ambient temperature below 60°F (16°C).

imaybail

Sorry I wasn't clear. Brake is not working when trying to drive and use it to slow down. Not talking about the warm up feature, just saying that it works when the truck is warming up going down the road, but when up to 180 or 200 it stops working and I get a strange exhaust note from the truck. Driving it again today and it seems that it is a little sluggish, but I'm still not getting any smoke when taking off or going through the gears.
I did clean the pressure tube and sensor that measures exhaust manifold pressure, but not change in truck behavior. Got me stumped.

rrking

It might be a problem the electric actuator or it is sticking. The turbo might need cleaned or maybe replaced. Mine did the same thing but it also displayed code u010c. The description was lost commo with turbo control module (something to that effect). Turbo replaced as a unit and the problem was solved

Lil Dog

The actuator is usually ok, its the nozzle ring in the turbo that starts to bind. The servo motor isn't that strong, so any galling or buildup on the sliding surfaces of the nozzle ring will cause it to hang. On start up you should hear the servo cycling the nozzle ring, prior to cranking the engine.

VGT Turbo info.

Bankdude

Just throwing it out there but I wonder if the restrictor valve in the EB is sticking when it comes up to temp. Possible slight expansion of the valve under heat and if it hasnt been oiled it could be sticky. If it stuck partially open that would impair performance and change the sound of the exhaust as well as add backpressure to the turbo. Not sure how to check for that though.

imaybail

Thanks for the ideas guys. Looks like I'm going to have to get it checked out by somebody. This is an original turbo (no cleaning port) and with my deletes, I don't think the dealership is going to be very supportive in my situation.
Might just try to buy a new turbo and install it myself. There goes my clutch money!

AH64ID

No restrictor valve on a 6.7 turbo EB, it's just vane positioning.

You may have to pay the dealership, but I would be shocked if they wouldn't do the cleaning procedure for you.

rrking

Agreed. Something I never understood is, why does the EB work when the engine is cooler, and stop working as it warms up to operating temps?

AH64ID

Things expand when hot, and tolerances get tighter.

imaybail

Mad a trip today with my trailer. 6X14 tandem with about 1500 lbs in it. I have to say that even though the performance has suffered a little, the truck is getting better mileage and still no smoke, so I know the turbo is working to provide enough air to go with the fuel. I haven't had any Dodge software flashes since 2008, so I'm not sure what level my truck software is at right now. If I take it in to the dealer to get them to clean the turbo, I know they will want to flash the ECM to the latest update.
Is that a good idea? How will that affect my SMarty programming?