Hi all
I have an 07.5 6.7L with 62,000 miles on it. Straight pipe from the turbo back, egr delete, south bend dual disc, ace stage 2, edge juice with attitude and smarty me
now that u have some back round. I'm pulling allot and recently any time I really get on it or Im tyin to pull a load it starts to over heat and starts blowin coolant so I let it kool down and it's fine until I put it under one of the 2 conditions. Automatically though head gasket But replaced thermostat and had the radiator flushed and blown still nothin. so pulled the head and got it pressure check with no problems so all new gaskets and a nice new set of head studs and bam back to the same problem. Anyone hAd this problem or got any ideas. To thinking maybe the fan clutch?
Appreciate any help
kyle

 

Thinking you may have air trapped in your cooling system. Did you do an EGR cooler delete? This trapped air not only hampers cooling, but will show up when there is a lot of load/stress on the motor. The pressurized air will also blow head gaskets too.

 

When you say egr delete, are saying just the egr or the egr and the egr cooler. If you still have the cooler I would say that is what the problem is. I had the head gaskets replaced with no luck. Replaced the cooler and that solved the problem. That will never happen again because I have now removed the cooler along with the egr and dpf. That was right at 100 k miles ago and I have not had any problems since. The exhaust was getting into the water jacket and blowing the coolant out the overflow.

 

i have complete egr and cooler delete. and have also bled the coolent line...
hmmmm

 

Well, you've covered a lot of bases. Maybe you could check/test the fan clutch somehow like you said. Not sure of its pricincple of operation, but maybe you could take a heat gun to the area while idling and see if you can make it engage...

 

Might not hurt to replace your radiator cap. On my 5.9 I thought my head gasket was going bad but it was only a radiator cap.

 

Sounds like you need to start taking some of your power equipment off. Start with the last thing you put on and go from there. Other than the deletes, I'm stock, no overheating at all. I pull a 40 ft. gooseneck in the oilfields with up to 38k gross wt., truck and trailer.

 

What was the problem with your radiator cap that it nEeded replacing do you know? And I tried turnin the smarty off leaving the edge on but didn't make a difference. That's what everyone says is the programer messed it up buy hadn't done anything new to it for the last 10k miles. Going to take the water pump off and check it tonight and try to find out how to check the fan clutch

 

When my truck got hot (240) the radiator cap was cold.
It must have been a seal leak on the cap because it wouldn't suck water back into the radiator. All it took was 1-2 quarts to refill the radiator.
New cap and 4-5000 miles latter no problems.

 

so after a weeks wait finally got the water up and suprise suprise! not the problem.... so going to bring it back home and change out thermostats again flush the cooling system and then try the radiator cap possiblity - Ill cross my fingers, and if thats not it then back to the drawing bored - fan clutch then turbo? any more suggestions im all ears!

 

ok when youd o this go to sears buy a coolant fill kit, there 69 dollars i believe to vac the coolant up into the motor, this isnt needed but will insure there is no air, next, back wash your radiator, all that good stuff up front and get all dirt out, i dunno where you are, but if your open roading a lot bugs will fill it up fast. before you buy a thermostat, ust tae it you ( not 100% sure if this is possible on these rucks i havent changed one) but if you can try that i doubt its the problem if you changed it once with no repair Good luck! Easy to troubleshoot really

you drive down the road over heat
eliminates fan *at highway speeds*
next shot is thermo but you changed that.

the cap might not be the problem presure test it first. when they hold pressure it makes the coolant carry more heat as it raises the boil point of the coolant.

 

water pump impeller loose

 

didnt seem loose or anything spins freely blades are good and didnt see any damage to the spring back in there either