3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Where to go if dealer wont enable features?

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Old 12-30-2006, 11:51 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by northernwheeler
I have mine hooked up with just the jumper wire. The extra safety switch really isn't needed.
'Course it isn't needed from our point, but the NTSB and others disagree and DC has to follow or risk being sued.


Question is can you put the truck in gear and activate the high idle and get it to hold? If it is disengaged as soon as wheel speed is seen then the clutch switch truly is not needed. May not do any good since DC seems adamant about it but it don't hurt to try.
Old 12-30-2006, 02:11 PM
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Ok can someone catch me up. I know they have had a flash for automatics to enable the high idle. Is there now a kit to get the manuals done? Is there an actual TSB out?
Old 12-30-2006, 08:16 PM
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is this an 06+ only issue? its enabled on my 03 6 speed. it does wonders in teh cold. the only way to get it to slow down, it to hit the fuel pedal, it'll rev down for a few seconds, then rev back up. i think it'll do it until the intake temps hit 45F. not 100% on the temp number though. dealers are tards......more than one occasion i have had to print off stuff from forums and take to them to read, when they tell me something can't be done.
Old 12-31-2006, 10:50 AM
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Okay, call me simple... In colder weather (est approx 20 degrees) my truck will automatically idle up from 750 to 1000 RPM.

I would call that a high idle feature enabled.

I know a friend had his 2004 enabled at the dealership and he could work it using the cruise control. Later the dealer did a reflash for a TSB and it blew away this feature for him.

How much higher (than 1000 RPM) would you want to go and why go to all the work with the pins, etc?

Mine came this way from the factory.
Old 12-31-2006, 11:43 AM
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Okay, call me simple... In colder weather (est approx 20 degrees) my truck will automatically idle up from 750 to 1000 RPM.
That is built in to all the 3rd gen ECU's but it doesn't happen unless the intake air temps are fairly low. The idle up we are talking about starts at 1100 at set and can be ramped up to 1500 with the cruise buttons.

At +1100 the engine warms very fast and negates the wet stacking issues. At 1500 rpm's it only takes about 5 minutes to get warm air into the cab.
Old 12-31-2006, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
That is built in to all the 3rd gen ECU's but it doesn't happen unless the intake air temps are fairly low. The idle up we are talking about starts at 1100 at set and can be ramped up to 1500 with the cruise buttons.

At +1100 the engine warms very fast and negates the wet stacking issues. At 1500 rpm's it only takes about 5 minutes to get warm air into the cab.

What he said. In addition, if your running a winch or inverter, high idle maintains battery charge a whole lot better. Just one example - there are more applictions.
Old 01-01-2007, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
That is built in to all the 3rd gen ECU's but it doesn't happen unless the intake air temps are fairly low. The idle up we are talking about starts at 1100 at set and can be ramped up to 1500 with the cruise buttons.

At +1100 the engine warms very fast and negates the wet stacking issues. At 1500 rpm's it only takes about 5 minutes to get warm air into the cab.
What do you mean by "wet stacking" ??
Old 01-01-2007, 09:43 PM
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"Wet stacking" is insuficient combustion heat to burn the fuel at idle. It results in fuel washing down the cylinder walls. Main reason NOT to idle for extended times unless the idle up feature is used.
Old 01-01-2007, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
"Wet stacking" is insuficient combustion heat to burn the fuel at idle. It results in fuel washing down the cylinder walls. Main reason NOT to idle for extended times unless the idle up feature is used.
That's what I thought, just never heard that term before, Thanks.
Old 01-03-2007, 12:41 PM
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I think that the High idle WITHOUT the clutch kit is still safer than an automatic. Seems like i know a few more people that high idle with there automatics in nuetral (pumps fluid). I bet it is alot easier to get it into reverse or foward, than an manual would be.

Then again, With our manuals it is not going to matter if we are at 1500 or 750, these things are tanks and are going to run over anything they want, till they run out of fuel. The 1500 rpm will just do it a little faster!!!

It is a useless safety option! they are just trying to get more money out of us. I feel sorry for you folks that have an automatic with the pathetic excuss of a safety fix for the slipping out of park into reverse. HONK HONK HONK!!! It pisses me off and i dont even have an automatic.
Old 01-03-2007, 01:14 PM
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Try calling West Motor in Preston (208)852-1337 too. I've found them to be easy to work with.
Old 01-03-2007, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by pooperscooper
..... they are just trying to get more money out of us.

Dealer wanted around $250 for the clutch switch. I got the ECM prom from Cummins for $17.53 incl. tax. Works like a hot darn - after the dealer actually enabled it after lieing to me that they did.
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