04ctd

what had on it: (all for last year)
BDDLPP set on Perf for last year.
DIY crank sensor mod.
strait pipe
FIPK.


what it did:
starting smoking ALOT under throttle around time we got ULSD.
put on a 4 inch bully dog straight thru same time
MPG went to 13 from 16.
smoking bad at idle - enough to see in intersections.

what done so far:
took BDDLPP back to stock.
Took FIPK filter off - no change.
set Cranksensor to no advance.
added half bottle Diesel Service Power kleen (tried to get it to clear up to trade it in

took to dealership - they could not find any thing wrong, but could not communicate properly with the ECM due to some special codes I had put in.

disconnected battery for ~2 days.
replaced MAP sensor (that's $75 down the crapper)

now it does this:
drives fine for about a mile.
then, loads up, first, won't go over ~2200 RPM,
then won't go over 2000, then works way down to ~1500 rpm.

so basically, it runs ok, then it gets worse as you drive,
had a dickens of a time getting home from work in rush hour traffic friday.

did same when cold as hot - watched gauge, was cool out tonite.

so what sensors provide the parameters for the 04 ECM to determine the fueling rate?

it is overfueling so bad it is flooding out, it stumbles & exhaust note changes, and actually loses power - slows down.

if it was mechanical (cracked injector?) would it do it all the time?

68k miles on it.

bigwheels94

I'd start with the basics.Air filter.Fuel filter.Lift pump (fuel pressure to the cp-3).Are you growing oil?(leaking injecter).If none of the above.I'd look into the injecters hanging open.(Lowers rail pressure,overfuels bad)Is it hard to start?(Possible fuel leak,@ 1 or more transfer tubes,&/or injecters hanging open-constantly spraying.)Rail pressure relief valve.(Also lowers rail pressure,& hard starts,but wouldn't overfuel thoe.)Is it throwing any codes?Why couldn't the dealer communicate with the ECU?(Result of the downloader?) Just some suggestions.Hope it helps.

JIMCTD

04CTD -
I had the same problem right after I got my F2's installed - not too bad at first, but it got bad enough after a couple days that I limped it in to the dealer at a top speed of 42 mph, smoking like a train. Turned out it was a nicked orifice on the #4 connector tube. The tech that installed the F2's pulled a tube out of his "bench stash", and we were back to green flag racing. Tech told me that the reason it got worse after a couple miles was that as the engine heated up, thermal expansion made the leak worse. I couldn't believe that a sewing needle diameter sized nick had that kind of impact! Have a kill test done on the injectors - if the problem is there, it'll show quick. Good luck!

PS - just noticed you're in SC - I live in Columbia, work in Sumter. If you're close enough to be interested, PM me for the dealership and tech ID - mod friendly, and a metric ton more competent than the bigger dealerships in the area.

04ctd

Big94, I'd say you are on the right track with an injector maybe hanging open.
no codes, it is hard to start - and will die sometimes after ~2 seconds.

Jim - that sounds like exactly my problem.
so like Big said, spraying too much, (either nicked instead of hanging open) and thermal expansion makes it get worse as goes along.

what's a connector tube?
shoot me a PM with the dealer data.
my local dealer mechanic has a hopped up 12V CTD, but he's leery of my 24V with hop ups.

what's a "kill Test on injectors"?

JIMCTD

04CTD - you have a PM.
Kill test - tech uses the DRB tool to kill injectors one at a time with the engine running - take the bad one out, and the problem disappears, there's the bad injector.
Connector tube - Tube that threads into the head and connects the high pressure injector line to the injector. Very critical to have the orifice where it mates to the injector body pristine, and to have it torqued according to in sequence with the injector per factory spec..
Check TDR for the thread on 3rd Gen injector removal and installation - pics of the parts mounted and removed are there.

chromegrill

Check to make sure your IAT sensor is clean. You had a FIPK on and if the IAT sensor filter was oiled it will cause those problems.

04ctd

yep, new IAT (it's really a MAP - and it's $75 bucks)

today the dealer did:
reflash of ECM to stock standards (?)
kill test of each individual injector.
cylinder balance test.

all results were negative.

but, as dealerships usually do, I don't think he got it hot enough to make the problem occur.

so in other words, he wasted his time and my &*(#% money.

it's not as bad as before, driveable now, but still not good. moved RPM up ~500 or so.

it's at the house, i held it WOT to see if it would blow up, it did not.
so i just brought it on home.

figure drive it till it grenades, and when parts come thru the block, there will be a visual indicator for them to work with.

04ctd

talked to my local guy:

http://www.performancedieselandrhinolinings.com/

he said the 04.5 have collector tube problems, but not the 04's, so I should be good there.

he said the AFC - Automatic Fuel Control valve on the Pump could be causing this,

or the Pressure Relief Valve on the Rail - could be stuck open or just malfunctioning.

he said either could only be checked on a DRB-3

he wants me to drain the fuel bowl, put in a new fuel filter,
and bring it over.

04ctd

well, it wasn't the MAP sensor - that was $75 down the tubes.

it must be the lift pump.

the DRB III says "it's running fine"

uh, ok.....except for it smoking, stumbling, and then dying...at which point my ECM locked up the DRB III.

the dealership can't find anything wrong with it.

runs good when cold, dies when full hot.
gets progressively worse from cold to hot.

i cleaned the fuel filter bowl & drained it some, put in new fitler,

did air filter

no change.

but the flow from cycling hte lift pump to pump some thru the filter was tiny, the local guy said it is my lift pump due low volume on key cycle...

???

04ctd

free Lift pump fixed it.