Driveline shop told me that the plastic injection u joint holder types need a balance after replacing u joints. I had the same problem after replacing both of my u joints with precision 330, vibration between 65 and 75, not too bad though. I was thinking the same thing, transfer case, trans and getting kinda worried. Yanked the drive shaft, got 2 new spicer u joints and a balance, vibrations are gone.

 

maybe ill try that. but what is plastic injection holder?

 

I Dont know about plastic injection holder.. Perhaps the molded rubber support for center bearing which you don't have. I take it that this happens in OD and not when OD locked out. Does it do the same at 1800 in direct?

Based on description to this point, I suspect the large bearing in OD housing.

 

iwhen i do get the vibration its usually COLD outside and the instant i hit tow/haul (3rd) it goes away...????

 

If it vibrates with engine rpm only then I would suggest its something before the trans. Maybe the flex plate. If at speed only then would suggest looking at the drive train. Check the carrier you need to have in neutral with brake on to have any tension off of the drive line then see what parts you can get any play out of. If your carrier is worn out it will be sloppy.

 

what do u mean by carrier? i have a short box truck.

 

The factory U joint caps are held to the yokes with an injected plastic...

I thought I'd also mention that 03's and I think some 04's often had a vibration in the pedals/steering wheel right at 2000 RPM.

My 03 did that, as a kazoo like buzz, only around 2000 RPM.

The solution was an updated power steering hose that supplies pressure to the hydrobooster.

The new style hose has a big weight, and a metal crimp fitting mid-span.

It might be worth looking...

 

what are u talking about pedal/steering hose?how does a bigger hose stop my vibration? also where is the plastic injected?on yoke?

 

I think the original hose transmitted pulsations of the power steering pump to the brake booster, that caused the pedals, firewall and steering wheel to vibrate...

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/19-008-03.htm

On some of the factory U joint there's no clip holding the cap in, but there's a little hole in the side of the yoke where they inject plastic into a groove inside that secures the U joint cap. You just press them out, or heat'm a bit and press them out.

 

so the plastic topic is only for removing/installing factory caps€?so plastic isnt the root cause of my vib?

 

The plastic injection thing is just the time/money saving way they install U joints at the factory. I saw the post about someone saying they had to be rebalanced when you change them out. I've never heard of that (needing a rebalance when you replace a U joint) but then I'm no expert.

When you say when you hit tow/haul mode, it goes away...

Does the vibration come and go or change with road speed, or engine speed?

Does it have the newer style power steering hose?

 

It sounds like to me that the new vb isn't putting out enough pressure to keep things in the tranny happy. When you turn on the tow haul it cause the vb to raise the line pressure. Did your tranny shop check line pressure to make sure the vb was set properly?

 

not sure. after tranny was rebuilt it had still had vibration that same day and the next. 3 days later now its warmer outside (0 celcius) and vibration is gone. ill check again today

 

I own a 99 and have this same vibration that turns to a loud buzz sound at 2k rpm and up, growing louder the higher the speed. Didnt have it prior to tranny rebuild 7 days ago.

 

I also had them reseal the transfer case at same time. Could be one or the other. I hear alot of people fixing the symptoms by doing certain fixes but none have fixed the problem, ie the vibration, as near I can tell. I have the 47RE tranny and suspect it to be causing the vibes. Will figure it out somehow.