here are some better pics. the one that looks twisted is the drivers side, and the one that is straight is the passengers. is the drivers side supposed to be crooked.

If this is the sway bar what the hell is the trac bar then?!

sorry guys i am a newbie to SFA so i am trying to understand everything, you just have to tell me once though!

 

other pic............drivers side

 

i think i figured it out, the track bar runs paraell to the axle and is right above it. i am correct???!!!

 

Yes. The passenger's side mounts to the axle and the driver's side mounts to the frame.

 

Put tons of caster on a BRAND NEW dodge before driving off the lot, change nothing but throwing on some out of ballance tires, and you can get DW the first time you hit 50mph. Never say never...

 

Yeah I should know better than to say "never", but if you have seen that with a brand new truck that you cranked back the eccentric cams, there was something seriously wrong...bent housing?

 

Has anyone with a KORE setup had DW?

 

Gee, I was having an axiety attack just waiting for it to start!

Pete

 

WOW. I had 2 Early Broncos, both with 4" lifts and various tire size, when I sold them one had 33's and the other with 35's. Ran both for about 10 years (put about 100,000 miles on each) and never had the Death Wobble. Bought my 04.5 Ram and got it the first year on stock tires. It was the first time I had ever even heard about the DW. Man did I boogie in my seat when it happened.

 

Should i take this to the dealer? Is anyone elses like this?? just wondering if this is a problem and its going to wear the parts out prematurely...

 

Like I said before, its on a ball and socket, won't hurt anything being a little cocked, but grab it with some pliers and turn it if it bothers you. I wouldn't take it to the dealer with something as trivial as that...

 

you think pliers will be able to move it? i will have to try.

 

I had a '94 with the same problem. Ended up being the rear U-bolts. Needed tightening. Might wanna check 'em out.

 

It's a damping/frequency thing, and the more complicated the system the more things that can cause problems. I remember calculating the speeds at which one of my bikes should wobble, multiple of about 40 mph, and sure enough it did wobble if you took your hands off of the handlebars. It would stop with even light pressure, so it was never an issue driving normally, even at speed.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/arc...p?t-89266.html

There are two types of DW. The first typically is speed related. Whenever you reach a certain speed, bam, you get DW, no matter what. This is a vibration/oscillation issue. Look into tire balance, alignment, steering joints, missing bushings (totally shot), loose steering box (either loose bolts or worn internals), etc.

The second is an impact initiated DW. For example, hitting a pothole above a certain speed will start DW. This is more likely a bushings, loosening mounts, flexing components, etc. issue. Basically, something is tight enough that in general straight driving, it is ok, but give it an impact force, whatever is getting loose starts sliding, rebounds and starts going nuts.


http://www.bridgestonetrucktires.com...v6iss2/ra8.asp

Consider this story. Recently, we heard from a customer who was experiencing steering wheel wobble at about 65 mph. We jacked up the vehicle, and measured the runout of the steer tires.

The left front came in at 0.080", while the right front had only about 0.040" of radial runout. Neither of these numbers is huge (a typical wheel might have runout of about 0.025" and a typical tire about 0.050"), but what was suspicious was that the runout measurements were so different from one another.

It suggested pretty strongly that the real problem was at the vehicle. So, we measured the runout of the studs (these were hub-piloted wheel ends), and discovered that the studs had considerable runout.