How much oil should be comming out of that tube? The bottom of my truck is very wet, but there is not any decreases of oil on the dipstick. Now that winter is comming and I am in the salt belt I don't mind the oil to keep the salt off the bottome of the truck. I am just curious about the normal volume of oil that should be comming out and whether it is something that should be looked into further.

 

the oil that comes out of the breather should be a vapor. if enough vapor comes out it will condense back into oil. if there is a noticeable amount you could have an oil leak. my truck leaked oil since it was new, everyone dismissed it as normal blowby until it started losing a gallon a day to a cracked valve cover and cam bushings. ended up getting a new block. worse case scenario, but since the new block my garage floor is dry.

 

The truck is going in tomorrow for service. When I called the dealership and told the service guy the symptoms he insisted the truck come in ASAP. He said it was very serious. I also called the local Cummins serrvice outlet and spoke with one of the service guys there. He said it was very serious as well . Something about compression gasses pushing oil through the breather tube. I hope everything will be OK. The dealership assured me everything will be covered under the 100,000 mile engine warranty. I'll keep you all posted as more details become available. I am just warried they might want to give me a rbuild engine or try to rebuild mine. I only have 75,000 miles on the truck.

 

i have never heard of one of our engines being swapped out for a reman. they replaced my block with a new one. either way i hope its not that serious. you're 100% sure its coming from the breather and not an oil leak elsewhere?

 

100% sure. In fact about a month ago they replaced the front engine cover gasket as it was leaking. Now the breather is leaking. I have been checking underneath. It is the breather for sure.

 

Well I picked up the truck from the dealer on Friday. They determined there was too much oil in it so they drained some and washed the bottom of the truck told me to keep a watch on it. Right now it is Sunday morning. I drove a whopping 100 miles and the bottom of the truck is covered with oil. The dealer said that if the dripping continues from the breather tube they will have to do a wet and dry compression test . The service manager already contacted DC and thats what they told him to do. Does any one know what a wet compression test is? Should I start to worry?

 

Wet is adding oil into the cyl.to seal rings.(a prescriped amount)Wet and dry will show differant compression readings.ALSO there is a recent post on a truck with less then 5k on it I believe with a REMAN installed under warranty!!!!! Cummin DOES supply remans for WARRANTY!!!! Eaither this site or TDR.Just in the last month.Long thread.A friend of mines 03 at 95k or so started leaving fair size amounts of oil when parked and all over pan etc.Just a LONG time buildup of vapor/oil residue from vent.Kinda cleaned vent system(full of old oil)and it went back to normal stuff.Now has 110k and no differant then when it had 10k on it.

 

What is a REMAN?

 

I think mine just started leaking. I noticed that my fender well on the driver side are wet with oil, from the out side to about 6" in. The is very minimal oil spots under the rest of the truck. Is this what it looks like when it leaks?

 

Let's explore the options. My truck now has 16K on it and my problem just started. I just changed the oil and filter, could the filter have a higher friction loss factor creating more of a restriction, forcing oil out of the breather? My truck is stock other than the modified cam sensor which I installed just before the oil change, could a slight timing change force oil out?

 

No there are drips of oil from the front diff, the driverside wheel well is wet with oil, the tranny and tcase has actual oil drops hangin from them. the front bottom of the truck is soaked like driving through a deep puddle. There are no other leaks on the truck. The bottom has been washed and within 100 miles it is starting to look very wet. Also the dealer drained an extra 1.5 quarts of oil that they said was too much that was on Friday. When I checked the oil this morning it is again too much. I just changed the oil on Wednesday. I can still count to 12 . The oil looks just loke I poured it in. Does not smell like diesel nor is it discoloured in any way.

My understanding of the breather tube is that there should be nothing or almost nothing coming out of it. Even the Russian Ladas had breather tubes. You could dump in 2 time the required oil into it on an oil change and still nothing would come out of the breather, but as soon as there was any blow by, you had to squeege the bottom of the car. Ladas were POS, but the principle of a breather is the same regarfless of the vehicle, is it not?

 

If you are loosing oil due to compression you have a problem. I had a 400SB chevy that huffed less oil than you that had 2 cracked pistons in it! The compression thing really bothers me. A dry test is what you normally do to see the ring seal of the motor is good. If a cylander is low then you add oil to see if it will come up. I dont know why they would want a wet test done to all the cylanders. Ask the tech for the numbers. Usually they will all be close and anything past 15% (on a gas motor) variance is considered a bad cylander. Compression preasure in the crankcase could be caused by bad rings, cylander wall wear, a blown head gasket, or something cracked. The mysterious oil level rise tells me that you are getting fuel in the oil even though you dont smell diesel in the oil. A leaky injector could cause this. If you remove the radiator cap with the motor running can you see bubbles? If so something cracked or the head gasket let go. I am going to guess a blown head gasket is your cause.

 

Sounds like a injector issue to me.Only way to MAKE more oil. The question on REMAN engines.Lets do this the easy way.First REBUILT and REMAN are TWO differant terms and TWO differant things.Look UP REMAN engines etc.on a webb search.Look UP JASPER REMANS for a example or EVEN REMAN transmissions.After reading adds etc.you will understand.Of course it will be REMANUFACTURED Engines or transmissions etc.REBUILD is a VERY short version of reman. Also look up defination in the DICTIONIAY of BOTH.

 

I agree with hounddog, there is nothing wrong with reman. Reman is essentially new. Rebuild however...not nearly as good. I don't really agree with the headgskt call either as if you have coolant and oil mixing it usually turns the oil very ugly...I term it a baby s**t generator as the ned products looks like a very groos chacolate milkshake or gross baby sh*t. Fuel on hte other hand will mix very well and may not be able to tell easily...also if fuel is going into the crank it will overfill it and could cause it to start coming out the breather.

 

I agree that a leaking injector can add fuel to the oil but where is the compression coming from? Depending how the head gasket lets go it can pump fuel and air into the oil without ever getting into the cooling system. There is more preasure in the cylander than the oil system. I would think if he had a leaking injector or a bad ring he would also be mentioning a constant smoking out the tail pipe instaed of the vent tube.