Valvoline Premium Extreme Blue Oil
11-30-2009, 12:07 PM
#17
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I thought I saw a thread here a while back and the general consensus what that the old and now harder to find ci oil lubes way better than the new cj oil but will clog the cat converter on the new trucks. I guess I need to find it again because I would rather replace a cat than rebuild the motor early. My question would be what happens when the cat gets clogged? To much back pressure and hurts the motor or just fail the smog test? Anyone?
CI-4+ oil will damage the DPF's on newer model diesel's, hence the reason why CJ-4+ oil was developed in the first place. CI-4+ oil though, won't hurt the CATs on our trucks, they were designed to use that grade of oil.
11-30-2009, 04:28 PM
#18
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I 've been running the AMSOIL 15w-40 in my truck for 3 years now. It's a great oil just pretty darn high priced. I 'm paying $34.xx/gallon. Plus 2 oil filters, I (change the oil at 10k and the filter at 5k). That's about $110 just for the oil alone.
Went to the local NAPA today and looked at the Valvoline Premium Blue 5w-40 Syn. They are selling it for $23/gallon. I 'm going to be switching to that in about 3k miles when my next service is due.
Just wondering. If any of you are running the Fleetguard Stratapore filters how long do you leave them on? I 've been changing mine out at 5k miles but would like to maybe run one until 8k and then do a service again. Any suggestions on that?
Went to the local NAPA today and looked at the Valvoline Premium Blue 5w-40 Syn. They are selling it for $23/gallon. I 'm going to be switching to that in about 3k miles when my next service is due.
Just wondering. If any of you are running the Fleetguard Stratapore filters how long do you leave them on? I 've been changing mine out at 5k miles but would like to maybe run one until 8k and then do a service again. Any suggestions on that?
11-30-2009, 05:57 PM
#19
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I 've been running the AMSOIL 15w-40 in my truck for 3 years now. It's a great oil just pretty darn high priced. I 'm paying $34.xx/gallon. Plus 2 oil filters, I (change the oil at 10k and the filter at 5k). That's about $110 just for the oil alone.
Went to the local NAPA today and looked at the Valvoline Premium Blue 5w-40 Syn. They are selling it for $23/gallon. I 'm going to be switching to that in about 3k miles when my next service is due.
Just wondering. If any of you are running the Fleetguard Stratapore filters how long do you leave them on? I 've been changing mine out at 5k miles but would like to maybe run one until 8k and then do a service again. Any suggestions on that?
Went to the local NAPA today and looked at the Valvoline Premium Blue 5w-40 Syn. They are selling it for $23/gallon. I 'm going to be switching to that in about 3k miles when my next service is due.
Just wondering. If any of you are running the Fleetguard Stratapore filters how long do you leave them on? I 've been changing mine out at 5k miles but would like to maybe run one until 8k and then do a service again. Any suggestions on that?
11-30-2009, 08:33 PM
#20
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Guys, there's nothing wrong with a CJ-4 oil. Yes, they have a little less TBN reserve. No, it doesn't matter since you aren't running your oil all the way down to the end, either.
CJ-4 has a lower sulfated ash limit (1.0% vs 1.4% for CI-4).
If you don't NEED a CJ, then run a CI if you have it. But there's no reason to fear a CJ-4 oil.
PB Extreme is great stuff. BTW- I've asked our resident oil guru about Valvoline PB. He told me that it is essentially a Cummins-formulated oil that Ashland manufactures under the Valvoline brand. The recipe is Cummins spec, and Cummins tested.
We use hundreds of gallons a day of CJ-4 regular Premium Blue running heinous abuse tests (oil temps over 275F). NO problems. Why would Premium Blue Extreme (a better oil) have any issues?
Cummins runs Premium Blue not because they get it cheaply-- but because its "their" oil.
Justin
CJ-4 has a lower sulfated ash limit (1.0% vs 1.4% for CI-4).
If you don't NEED a CJ, then run a CI if you have it. But there's no reason to fear a CJ-4 oil.
PB Extreme is great stuff. BTW- I've asked our resident oil guru about Valvoline PB. He told me that it is essentially a Cummins-formulated oil that Ashland manufactures under the Valvoline brand. The recipe is Cummins spec, and Cummins tested.
We use hundreds of gallons a day of CJ-4 regular Premium Blue running heinous abuse tests (oil temps over 275F). NO problems. Why would Premium Blue Extreme (a better oil) have any issues?
Cummins runs Premium Blue not because they get it cheaply-- but because its "their" oil.
Justin
11-30-2009, 09:14 PM
#21
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You know if you buy the Amsoil "preferred customer" subscription, ($10 for 6 months or $20 for 12 months), it'll drop the price down to $23 a gal. If I were you I'd go for longer intervals, changing syn. out at 5k when the normal interval when using dino oil is 7.5k, is a waste of money. Go for at least 10k, or possibly once a year if anything. If you really want the most for you buck, I would invest in a bypass filtration system. With one of those, syn. can easily run up to 25k safely.
I 'm just wondering how long a Fleetguard Stratapore filter is good for? 5k, 8k, 10k?
11-30-2009, 09:29 PM
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Ahh ok, that's understandable then. The severe service interval on our trucks is 7.5k, (oddly enough the normal interval is 15k), which is around the general consensus interval, (5k - 7.5k). Now, if Mopar filters will go 7.5k without a problem, than I wouldn't figure it dangerous for a Stratapore to go 8k, if not 10k, without a problem.
11-30-2009, 10:05 PM
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Ahh ok, that's understandable then. The severe service interval on our trucks is 7.5k, (oddly enough the normal interval is 15k), which is around the general consensus interval, (5k - 7.5k). Now, if Mopar filters will go 7.5k without a problem, than I wouldn't figure it dangerous for a Stratapore to go 8k, if not 10k, without a problem.
11-30-2009, 10:50 PM
#25
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My owner's manual says to change oil every 7,500 miles during normal service. 3,750 during severe service.
The big differance between CJ-4 and CI-4 is the amount of ZDDP (zinc); about 25% less. ZDDP is an anti-wear additive. It's been used for many years in car and truck oils. But, in recent decades it has been removed because when burned it can clog the cat.
Oil burning mostly occurs when the engine is cold, and when the rings and valve guides/seals wear down enough to allow crank case oil to enter the combustion chambers.
The only time the levels of ZDDP seem to matter is when you have flat tappets/lifters. All modern gas engines that use lifters, use rollers. Flat tappets were phased out many years ago. EXCEPT in the cummins diesel engine. For some reason, we still have flat tappets/lifters.
Without the added ZDDP found in older oils, the tappets can wear excessivly and wipe a cam lobe. It happens pretty regularly to the classic car and truck crowd. Some engines will wipe a cam lobe in less than an hour. Although here are other facters involved, the lack of zinc is a major player. It's so important, that makers of flat tappet cams will not warrenty the parts if a modern (low ZDDP) oil is used during break in.
It seems that we are left with two choices. First is to add readily available zinc additives or use a racing break in oil. This will save the cam and lifters, but may kill the cat.
Second is to use standard CJ oils and hope for the best.
As for me, I'll add zinc to the base oil. If the car goes, it will be a slow decline, and it takes less than an hour to fix it. If the cam goes, it will be a sudden failure, and will take days to fix. If I'm in the middle of WY (like I was yesterday), I'd prefer to have a problem with the cat.
The big differance between CJ-4 and CI-4 is the amount of ZDDP (zinc); about 25% less. ZDDP is an anti-wear additive. It's been used for many years in car and truck oils. But, in recent decades it has been removed because when burned it can clog the cat.
Oil burning mostly occurs when the engine is cold, and when the rings and valve guides/seals wear down enough to allow crank case oil to enter the combustion chambers.
The only time the levels of ZDDP seem to matter is when you have flat tappets/lifters. All modern gas engines that use lifters, use rollers. Flat tappets were phased out many years ago. EXCEPT in the cummins diesel engine. For some reason, we still have flat tappets/lifters.
Without the added ZDDP found in older oils, the tappets can wear excessivly and wipe a cam lobe. It happens pretty regularly to the classic car and truck crowd. Some engines will wipe a cam lobe in less than an hour. Although here are other facters involved, the lack of zinc is a major player. It's so important, that makers of flat tappet cams will not warrenty the parts if a modern (low ZDDP) oil is used during break in.
It seems that we are left with two choices. First is to add readily available zinc additives or use a racing break in oil. This will save the cam and lifters, but may kill the cat.
Second is to use standard CJ oils and hope for the best.
As for me, I'll add zinc to the base oil. If the car goes, it will be a slow decline, and it takes less than an hour to fix it. If the cam goes, it will be a sudden failure, and will take days to fix. If I'm in the middle of WY (like I was yesterday), I'd prefer to have a problem with the cat.
12-01-2009, 07:32 AM
#26
The big differance between CJ-4 and CI-4 is the amount of ZDDP (zinc); about 25% less. ZDDP is an anti-wear additive. It's been used for many years in car and truck oils. But, in recent decades it has been removed because when burned it can clog the cat.
The only time the levels of ZDDP seem to matter is when you have flat tappets/lifters. All modern gas engines that use lifters, use rollers. Flat tappets were phased out many years ago. EXCEPT in the cummins diesel engine. For some reason, we still have flat tappets/lifters.
The only time the levels of ZDDP seem to matter is when you have flat tappets/lifters. All modern gas engines that use lifters, use rollers. Flat tappets were phased out many years ago. EXCEPT in the cummins diesel engine. For some reason, we still have flat tappets/lifters.
The CI-4 oil was used and reccomended for diesel engines WITH catalytic converters. How do you come up with this nonsense about plugging CAT's?
Cummins engines still use flat tappets and they use CJ-4 oil, can you be any more contradictory? Evidently Cummins knows somethign you don't about flat tappets and CJ-4, eh?
C'mon man!!!
12-01-2009, 08:04 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by That no_6_oh_no Guy
You have now posted 2 totally irrelevant and blatantly incorrect statements that wil now forever be copied\pasted into these discussions.
I have used this oil for the last 35,000 and I love it....No smell, seemed to quiet the motor way down!
12-01-2009, 08:27 AM
#28
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I always marvel how people consider clean oil GOOD for their engine.... Maybe they would like to see the water stay clean when they mop their floors also.... just leave the dirt where it is.
12-01-2009, 08:33 AM
#29
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I read an article in the TDR in which some oil guru did an independant test on 20 oils, not knowing the brands that were in the test. The Valvoline Premium Blue 15w-40 was in the top 5-7 amongst the higher priced synthetics. I then switched to it from Amsoil. Price was also a factor for me.
At least my oil report showed less anti-wear additives with the LE.
My truck OM says 15,000 mile intervals, and my oil reports show more iron at that interval, but no detrimental effects beyond that. I change at 7,500 to 9,000 using DelVac now, and reports are great.
And DelVac was on sale for $6 a gallon at Reilly's......
12-01-2009, 08:50 AM
#30
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Numerous owners of fleet trucks have posted repeatedly of their success w/CJ oils. Oil samples and tough everday usage of the trucks have resulted in no reports of excessive wear. The engines will still outlive us w/CJ oil. I stockpiled some Delo CI oil but will be switching to the CJ next. If it's keeping you up at night,use what you need to get your rest. I got Delo CJ-4@ $6.98/gallon@ Kragen. I change@ 5,000 miles from new.