rip 112

Im having a meltdown here.... was headed to work and the pedal went dead, cels came on and truck died. Will crank over but wont fire. Apps has been changed, new batteries and good connections. Alternator has been acting weird i get the check gauges light every so often and the voltage sits on 0 then goes away and acts fine. Fuel pump will cycle momentarily with the key on but quickly dies back to 0 psi. Overhead will not display mpgs or dte readings. Very upsetting. Has anyone through these codes altogether?? Can anyone point me in the right direction?

p0581-Speed Control Multiplexed Switch 1 High
p2509- ECM/PCM Power Input Signal Intermittent
p0517-Battery Temperature Sensor High

LGarrison

My guess with this information would be a bad alternator. It happen to me a while back no juice no go.

BigIron70

Check for loose or corrosion on battery connections. Drivers side battery ground most likely loose or corroded. Check battery have them load tested most likely drivers side battery is toast. Replace both batterys not just one cleans connections and make sure they are tight. Ground cable first off last on.

Dr.Dizzle

I agree with BigIron70's recommendation. If your drivers side negative cable requires replacement due to damage or excessive corrosion, Chrysler has them on national back-order at this time.

rip 112

What would cause the battery to fry i just replaced them 2 weeks ago?

Im thinking the alternator too because my airdog pump power is hooked to it and it wont cycle right.

Can anyone else verify this situation who has had an alternator fail on them?

rip 112

Would a corroded or bad ground cause the computer to act nonresponsive??/ The key on code trick is not working, and the smarty will not clear them either.

When i plug the smarty in the first few times it would constantly tell me key on key off but would not read any codes. After a few tries it popped up the codes I posted but when I went to clear them the smarty said comm error time out

Dr.Dizzle

Yes! A corroded, damaged or loose ground can contribute to that behavior.

rip 112

upon further inspection the negative cables are good, the positives have some corrosion and should probably be replaced. But particularly the driver side ground looks good

rip 112

And this applies to both positive and negative grounds?

Dr.Dizzle

Remove and clean the corrosion from each of the cable ends(terminals) including the battery. Then use a wire brush or battery terminal cleaning brush to clean the cable ends and battery terminals. Re install and tighten the terminals as BigIron70 noted;"Ground cable first off last on".

rip 112

will give it a try, thanks for the quick responses guys

rip 112

ok, i spent a little time to inspect the cables on both ends, cleaned them and wire brushed them thoroughly, put protectant on them and tightened everything.

Truck still wont start, gauges react when i turn the key on, but all the gauges go dead soon after, no readings whatsoever. When i crank it the rpms dont even move. And as i said, the overhead is reading nothing at all, and the programmer wont communicate with the truck long enough to read or clear the codes. Checked the fuses and none are bad. Im stumped. The only other thing that comes to my mind is the alternator, but with the truck down i cant take it anywhere to have it tested.

HELP!!!!!

Dr.Dizzle

I realize you are stuck, but; the batteries may have been compromised since you replaced them with corroded, loose terminals. They should be load tested to be sure they are up to snuff. The alternator is possible,however;at this point we are guessing.

rip 112

Thats why i was hoping to find someone that had this combination of codes and symptoms. I will get the batteries tested, but when i crank it it cranks fast and strong, doesnt seem like they have been hurt much.

in any case, say the batteries check out fine, does anyone have any clues to where i should look next??

Dr.Dizzle

Is the fuel pump cycling like it should and perhaps not providing fuel? Does it have a fusible link that you can check?