Trouble Changing Engine Oil Filter
#1
Trouble Changing Engine Oil Filter
This was the first time I have done the oil and filter change on my 04.5 Dodge 2500 4X4. myself. I did read all the "search" information to save time and trouble. I had to remove the inner wheel well to gain access for a good job. Did I miss something or is that the best way?
#2
This was the first time I have done the oil and filter change on my 04.5 Dodge 2500 4X4. myself. I did read all the "search" information to save time and trouble. I had to remove the inner wheel well to gain access for a good job. Did I miss something or is that the best way?
I Also have one with a 3/8 rachet hole that will work the same way from the bottom with a 12" extension,,,,
#3
you can climb under the truck and reach up there with a rag on your hand and crank it off requires some muscle but you can navigate it down so no oil gets on ya. thats how i do it.
fill out your signature so we know what truck you got. its in the user cp part on the top of the page.
fill out your signature so we know what truck you got. its in the user cp part on the top of the page.
#4
I purchased an oil filter cap wrench from ginosgarage.com and it works really good for this . It fits on the end of a socket wrench and with an extension you can lay on your back and reach up to turn the filter. Being careful to keep it level until you get it down, then drop it into an catch pan. Nothing to it.
#5
Thanks for the information. I looked and saw that it is possible to reach the filter if I move the wires for the Air Conditioning Compressor out of the way. The wiring harness was blocking the view of the filter. I did not think the filter would fit out that way.
#6
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 0
From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
Way too much work, you're turning a 5 mintute jobe into a big ordeal.
Just get one of the ones you put on a 3/8" extension from underneath like the other guys mentioned. It's like a cup that just slides over the filter, has notches in it to line up with the squared edges of the filter.
See here:
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=LC54780
Just get one of the ones you put on a 3/8" extension from underneath like the other guys mentioned. It's like a cup that just slides over the filter, has notches in it to line up with the squared edges of the filter.
See here:
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=LC54780
#7
I have changed my filter from the bottom as the previous posts suggest and also from the top. I prefer doing it from the top because it requires pullling the air intake hose between the intake box and the turbo off. Couple hose clamps, quickly removed. I can check to make sure there is no dust getting past the air filter when pulling the hose.
I remove the drain plug and while the pan is draining out, I loosen the oil filter from the bottom using the Genos filter tool, then I go to the top over the fender/oil filter and pull a plastic bag over the filter, finish unscrewing it, the filter drops into the bag and I just seal it up, no mess whatsoever.
I replace the filter from the top as well, fill it up with oil and screw it on tight. It seem a lot easier to me to screw on the filter full of oil from the top than reaching up with it full of oil from the bottom. I have done it both ways, just do whats easier for me. You will find which method works the best for you the more you do oil changes.
CD
It is truly about a 5/10 minute job to change the filter.
I remove the drain plug and while the pan is draining out, I loosen the oil filter from the bottom using the Genos filter tool, then I go to the top over the fender/oil filter and pull a plastic bag over the filter, finish unscrewing it, the filter drops into the bag and I just seal it up, no mess whatsoever.
I replace the filter from the top as well, fill it up with oil and screw it on tight. It seem a lot easier to me to screw on the filter full of oil from the top than reaching up with it full of oil from the bottom. I have done it both ways, just do whats easier for me. You will find which method works the best for you the more you do oil changes.
CD
It is truly about a 5/10 minute job to change the filter.
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#8
I have changed my filter from the bottom as the previous posts suggest and also from the top. I prefer doing it from the top because it requires pullling the air intake hose between the intake box and the turbo off. Couple hose clamps, quickly removed. I can check to make sure there is no dust getting past the air filter when pulling the hose.
I remove the drain plug and while the pan is draining out, I loosen the oil filter from the bottom using the Genos filter tool, then I go to the top over the fender/oil filter and pull a plastic bag over the filter, finish unscrewing it, the filter drops into the bag and I just seal it up, no mess whatsoever.
I replace the filter from the top as well, fill it up with oil and screw it on tight. It seem a lot easier to me to screw on the filter full of oil from the top than reaching up with it full of oil from the bottom. I have done it both ways, just do whats easier for me. You will find which method works the best for you the more you do oil changes.
CD
It is truly about a 5/10 minute job to change the filter.
I remove the drain plug and while the pan is draining out, I loosen the oil filter from the bottom using the Genos filter tool, then I go to the top over the fender/oil filter and pull a plastic bag over the filter, finish unscrewing it, the filter drops into the bag and I just seal it up, no mess whatsoever.
I replace the filter from the top as well, fill it up with oil and screw it on tight. It seem a lot easier to me to screw on the filter full of oil from the top than reaching up with it full of oil from the bottom. I have done it both ways, just do whats easier for me. You will find which method works the best for you the more you do oil changes.
CD
It is truly about a 5/10 minute job to change the filter.
#9
Every time i change the filter all i do is remove the air intake tube between the box and the turbo which is really easy on the aftermarket systems, and then get at it with a band type filter wrench. takes less than 5 mins.
#10
What ever you do MAKE SURE that the old filter gasket is not still on the filter base.... My bro screwed up ....
Rod bearing on #6
#6 piston
So far he is in it for about $1500.... drove 8 miles till it started to knock.... still had oil pressure.
not a good day for him.
MM
Rod bearing on #6
#6 piston
So far he is in it for about $1500.... drove 8 miles till it started to knock.... still had oil pressure.
not a good day for him.
MM
#12
As for the filter. Just take the air tube from turbo to air box and you can easily get at filter. Or get it from bottom with a filter wrench
#13
Is this what you read?
Warning: Prefilling An Oil Filter Can Be Dangerous To Your Engine
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Soon after I bought my first Dodge-Cummins and joined TDR someone started a thread that contained a very valuable tip/warning that may have prevented me and many others from buying a new engine. I ALWAYS remember it when doing my own oil change but have not seen it mentioned in a long time. It's worth reminding everyone of here.
Prefilling an engine oil filter may (or may not be) a good idea for caring for an engine.
It seems that back in the '90s Cummins/Dodge and lots of unhappy owners experienced failed engines shortly after performing or having an oil change performed. Cummins disassembled a few warranty claim engines (and rejected the warranty claim) because a tiny sliver of aluminum was found blocking a piston cooling jet hole under the piston.
The cause was a tiny scrap of aluminum from the seal on top of the gallon jug of fresh engine oil. Apparently it happened many times. An owner, in a hurry, would puncture or tear the aluminum seal away and hurriedly pour fresh oil into the center of the new oil filter.
Oil poured into the center chamber of the oil filter bypasses the filter element and the engine oil pump takes a suction in the center chamber of the oil filter. If that fresh oil contains a tiny sliver of aluminum oil jug seal it will be introduced directly into the engine's oil supply and pumped straight through the engine.
Cummins engines have a tiny hole in the piston structure (haven't seen it, just read about it) that allows engine oil flow for piston cooling. A sliver of aluminum will plug the cooling hole. The first time the driver puts his foot in his Dodge to pull a grade or tow his trailer after an oil change he overheats and melts a piston and wipes out an expensive engine.
Not long after I read that valuable tip on TDR and old friend was visiting, pulling his fiver with his 7.3 Powerstroke Ford and wanted to change the oil while he was here. To demonstate the warning, I held a paint filter in place for him to pour fresh engine oil from the gallon jug into his oil filter. To our surprise, we trapped a tiny sliver of aluminum seal in the paint filter from the new oil jug he had opened.
Do-it-yourself oil changers beware. Prelubing your oil filter is considered a wise practice for avoiding dry start-ups but it you accidentally allow a sliver of aluminum oil jug seal to drop into the jug and pour it into the center chamber of your oil filter while pre-filling the filter with fresh oil you could destroy a new engine.
Warning: Prefilling An Oil Filter Can Be Dangerous To Your Engine
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Soon after I bought my first Dodge-Cummins and joined TDR someone started a thread that contained a very valuable tip/warning that may have prevented me and many others from buying a new engine. I ALWAYS remember it when doing my own oil change but have not seen it mentioned in a long time. It's worth reminding everyone of here.
Prefilling an engine oil filter may (or may not be) a good idea for caring for an engine.
It seems that back in the '90s Cummins/Dodge and lots of unhappy owners experienced failed engines shortly after performing or having an oil change performed. Cummins disassembled a few warranty claim engines (and rejected the warranty claim) because a tiny sliver of aluminum was found blocking a piston cooling jet hole under the piston.
The cause was a tiny scrap of aluminum from the seal on top of the gallon jug of fresh engine oil. Apparently it happened many times. An owner, in a hurry, would puncture or tear the aluminum seal away and hurriedly pour fresh oil into the center of the new oil filter.
Oil poured into the center chamber of the oil filter bypasses the filter element and the engine oil pump takes a suction in the center chamber of the oil filter. If that fresh oil contains a tiny sliver of aluminum oil jug seal it will be introduced directly into the engine's oil supply and pumped straight through the engine.
Cummins engines have a tiny hole in the piston structure (haven't seen it, just read about it) that allows engine oil flow for piston cooling. A sliver of aluminum will plug the cooling hole. The first time the driver puts his foot in his Dodge to pull a grade or tow his trailer after an oil change he overheats and melts a piston and wipes out an expensive engine.
Not long after I read that valuable tip on TDR and old friend was visiting, pulling his fiver with his 7.3 Powerstroke Ford and wanted to change the oil while he was here. To demonstate the warning, I held a paint filter in place for him to pour fresh engine oil from the gallon jug into his oil filter. To our surprise, we trapped a tiny sliver of aluminum seal in the paint filter from the new oil jug he had opened.
Do-it-yourself oil changers beware. Prelubing your oil filter is considered a wise practice for avoiding dry start-ups but it you accidentally allow a sliver of aluminum oil jug seal to drop into the jug and pour it into the center chamber of your oil filter while pre-filling the filter with fresh oil you could destroy a new engine.
#14
However you choose to remove your filter, add in this step. Break the filter loose. REMOVE tool, then slip a plastic shopping bag over the filter and tie it shut. Replace tool and continue to remove the filter. This small FREE step will save you tons of cleanup and mess. Sometimes I double bag the filter cause the bags seem to get holes in them quite easily.
#15
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 0
From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
I used to use a big plastic pop bottle with the top cut off, slip it over the filter after loosening and when it comes off it falls into the bottle.
Don't bother with that or a bag, manage to lower it straight down without ever spilling a drop.
Don't bother with that or a bag, manage to lower it straight down without ever spilling a drop.