Transmission Service
#1
Transmission Service
I know this is an old topic, but I have been searching and reading and still have a few questions. I am changing out the fluid in my 48RE this weekend, and was wondering how much fluid to buy? I have heard 4 quarts, 6 quarts and 7 quarts. Also, Is there any way to do it without spilling STF everywhere? I am doing it in my driveway, so should I lay down a tarp or something or is it pretty easy to contain? Also, any tips or different methods than just dropping the pan? Thanks, you guys are always a big help.
MSandt
MSandt
#2
With that plan for 8quarts of the ATF+4 maybe one extra to be safe. For the pan you can loosen the bolts across the back of the pan off a bit and then pull out the rest of the bolts. This will allow the pan to drop forward a bit and make it a little easier to contain the mess. You might want to look at a deep sump pan. They add a couple extra quarts of fluid, then have a port for a temp gauge and they also have a drain plug.
#3
Go to walmart and buy one of those BIG plastic containers with the lids, but besure to measure the clearance your truck has under the trany pan, so you dont get one too tall and cant slide it under. When you loosen the bolts it will be able to catch all the fluid that starts seeping from around the whole pan. Mine took 6.5qts to refill. I would change the filter out also. Napa has them for $15-19 depending on if they have one without the gasket with it.(you wont need it).
#4
If it's been a few miles since the last one or it's the first, let the dealer a transmission shop do it. They do the fluid/filter change and adjust the bands. Well worth the $140 in my opinion.
#5
I dont think for $140 a band adjustment would be involved. But yes I would do a band adjustment while your at it. It's not hard. If your somewhat mechanically inclined you can do it yourself.
ADJUSTMENT - BANDS
FRONT BAND
The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is
located on the left side of the transmission case
above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut (Fig. 74).
Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting
screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary.
(3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N•m (72 in.
lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench
C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and an appropriate
Torx™ socket.
CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 is needed to reach the
adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 5 N•m
(47-50 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns.
(5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten
locknut to 41 N•m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Lower vehicle.
The Rear Band is inside:
REAR BAND
The transmission oil pan must be removed for
access to the rear band adjusting screw.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
(3) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns.
Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.
(4) Tighten adjusting screw to 8 N•m (72 in. lbs.)
torque (Fig. 75).
(5) Back off adjusting screw 3 turns.
(6) Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut
to 34 N•m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan
on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 N•m (13 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(8) Lower vehicle and refill transmission with
Mopart ATF +4, Automatic Transmission fluid.
ADJUSTMENT - BANDS
FRONT BAND
The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is
located on the left side of the transmission case
above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut (Fig. 74).
Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting
screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary.
(3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N•m (72 in.
lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench
C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and an appropriate
Torx™ socket.
CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 is needed to reach the
adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 5 N•m
(47-50 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns.
(5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten
locknut to 41 N•m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Lower vehicle.
The Rear Band is inside:
REAR BAND
The transmission oil pan must be removed for
access to the rear band adjusting screw.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
(3) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns.
Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.
(4) Tighten adjusting screw to 8 N•m (72 in. lbs.)
torque (Fig. 75).
(5) Back off adjusting screw 3 turns.
(6) Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut
to 34 N•m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan
on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 N•m (13 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(8) Lower vehicle and refill transmission with
Mopart ATF +4, Automatic Transmission fluid.
#6
If you don't have any shifting issues, I'd skip any band adjustments. It's not necessary.
I was careful and took all the precautions and still had some spill on my first fluid change.
I used seven quarts on my last change and added a B&M drain plug to my stock pan for the next change. A Mag-Hytec pan will give you more volume, but not much improvement in the cooling department. It's more bling than anything else. My trans with a stock pan runs 160* empty and <190* towing a 10K toyhauler.
I was careful and took all the precautions and still had some spill on my first fluid change.
I used seven quarts on my last change and added a B&M drain plug to my stock pan for the next change. A Mag-Hytec pan will give you more volume, but not much improvement in the cooling department. It's more bling than anything else. My trans with a stock pan runs 160* empty and <190* towing a 10K toyhauler.
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#8
Cummins Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 64
From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
I use electric pump that they sell at auto parts store for pumping out oil. Use it for changing oil on my boat too. I use it when oil is hot since it pumps it out much faster.
#9
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
Band adjustment is necessary. Without band adjustment you eventually lose second gear or reverse gear. When you run out of adjustment threads the KD band is worn out.
Like bigIrons suggestion.
Like bigIrons suggestion.
Last edited by dozer12216; 07-20-2008 at 03:37 AM. Reason: add
#10
Buy a 1 gallon bottle hand pump and 5 feet of hose that will connect to the bottom of the pump. Run it down the dip stick and suck out the oil. You should get most of the oil (up to 7 quarts). Then when you drop the pan to change the filter you will not leak oil everywhere. May have one quart left in the pan so you still need to be careful but it will not drool everywhere.
#11
I just did mine today. Just loosen the bolts in a fashion that will let the pan start to open on one side or one corner and start dropping fluid. I use a plastic mortar mixing tub about 20in. X 30in. (cheap like 10 bucks at lowe's). Continued to take bolts out until the pan is manageable without spilling all over the driveway (which is covered with cardboard). Installed new filter, I think I went back in with about 7 quarts of ATF. Also forgot to mention that I got a drain plug from Oreilly's for about 5 bucks, looks just like the 13 dollar B&M drain plug just in a different package and cheaper. Next time I can just open the drain.
#12
Transmission taking lots of ATF?
I did my trans service today, everything went good, except it is taking a lot of ATF. I bought 8 quarts to be on the safe side, filled up and checked often, and now I have all 8 quarts in there and it is not quite to the "OK" mark yet. THe fluid is plenty warm, my commander is readin 160 degrees, and I just got back from a 20 mile round trip drive. It is acting ok, it just sometimes downshifts early while slowing down and kind of shutters. Anyone else have similar problems? Should I just keep adding ATF until it reads "OK"? I know 8 quarts didnt come out. Thanks.
MSandt
MSandt
#13
#14
I did my trans service today, everything went good, except it is taking a lot of ATF. I bought 8 quarts to be on the safe side, filled up and checked often, and now I have all 8 quarts in there and it is not quite to the "OK" mark yet. THe fluid is plenty warm, my commander is readin 160 degrees, and I just got back from a 20 mile round trip drive. It is acting ok, it just sometimes downshifts early while slowing down and kind of shutters. Anyone else have similar problems? Should I just keep adding ATF until it reads "OK"? I know 8 quarts didnt come out. Thanks.
MSandt
MSandt
How are you checking the level? Hot fluid in Neutral with engine running? Mine is full at 7 quarts on a drain and re-fill.
#15
Yes, as I said, the engine is idling in neutral, hot fluid at around 160 DEG F. It is not leaking out anywhere. I changed the fluid and filter and after pulling the pan, I let it drip for maybe 30 min.