trans shifting prob
#1
trans shifting prob
HI, sometimes my trans, 48RE auto, in 2004 Diesel Ram, doesn't want to shift to next gear. Intermittant prob., It stays in 1st gear till about 2400 rpm, then extended shift in next gear. When it finishes shifting, after next stop it does fine for a while. I just found out if I back it up a bit, it will "trigger" it to extend shift points. ALso if you Bip the throttle quickly in firsr gear, it will then shift perfectly through the rest of the gears. I've replaced the Governor solenoid, and the pressure sensor after a local trans shop checked and suggested it. There are no codes. I've also replaced the trans filter and refilled with Valvoline atf+4 synthetic. What's up?
#3
#4
I havent done anything yet, because it is not very consistant. It seems to do it more when the humidity is up, but no proof for me yet. It doesnt even do it all the time when I back up. I have checked the fluid level and it is good and clean looking. I will proably change the filter and fluid soon too, as I havent done it since I bought the truck and it is coming up. I dont know a lot about transmissions, so I have been searching my *** looking for others with this prob. I have found others with similar, but not the exdact same symptoms, you are the first I have found. Exact same symptoms.
M Sandt
M Sandt
#5
Hello I had the same problems as you. I even had to come off the gas let it shift and then I could step back on the paddle. After months of going back to the dealer I got someone who knew what they were doing. The other thing I use to do is put the shift indicator slightly off of the drive symbol just so the drive indicator did not light up. When I did this it would shift right on the money.It sounds like a v/b and prssuer problem. Here is the other problem dodge is having a big problem with the direct drum lip seal. The seal goes flat and prevents the direct drum and clutches from engages had the v/b built by a good trans shop and had the dealer change the lip seal and what a difference. It goes right in to the next shift and is perfect. I hope this helps you and good luck.
#6
Another guy on here fixed his by having the bands adjusted. If you're doing a tranny change anyhow, do the bands. It is not hard to do. Plan on noing mine soon as I am feeling a little "in between gears" kind of a feel when going from 1-2.
#7
Hello I had the same problems as you. I even had to come off the gas let it shift and then I could step back on the paddle. After months of going back to the dealer I got someone who knew what they were doing. The other thing I use to do is put the shift indicator slightly off of the drive symbol just so the drive indicator did not light up. When I did this it would shift right on the money.It sounds like a v/b and prssuer problem. Here is the other problem dodge is having a big problem with the direct drum lip seal. The seal goes flat and prevents the direct drum and clutches from engages had the v/b built by a good trans shop and had the dealer change the lip seal and what a difference. It goes right in to the next shift and is perfect. I hope this helps you and good luck.
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#8
Thanks, I'm gonna do the bands next.Hoping that'll remedy the situation......
#9
Well did the front band, at first it seemed right on, as it warmed up though, a quick back-up and lo and behold it was still there. A little bip of the thottle and it was back to working perfectly......sounding more like the v/b everyday....?
#10
Hello Yes the trans had to come out with the lip seal. Tell the dealer it is not going in to third at times or the t/c is not locking up. It should me covered under warranty. The v/b is very complicated. You can up the line pressure and it will problem help the problem. But unless you do the v/b it will never be right. After my v/b was done it was a whole different Trans. If you up the line pressure on the v/b with out doing a shift kit and go to high it will set a check engine light. Also may not lock up t/c . I went thought months of problems till I got it right. Most dealers know about the lip seal but keep it quite. I hate to tell you the wrong thing but it sounds like the v/b is a place to start. I would start by checking the line pressures. Good luck
#11
Hello Yes the trans had to come out with the lip seal. Tell the dealer it is not going in to third at times or the t/c is not locking up. It should me covered under warranty. The v/b is very complicated. You can up the line pressure and it will problem help the problem. But unless you do the v/b it will never be right. After my v/b was done it was a whole different Trans. If you up the line pressure on the v/b with out doing a shift kit and go to high it will set a check engine light. Also may not lock up t/c . I went thought months of problems till I got it right. Most dealers know about the lip seal but keep it quite. I hate to tell you the wrong thing but it sounds like the v/b is a place to start. I would start by checking the line pressures. Good luck
#12
Not having much luck with this thing. Here's the next thing.I replaced both the governor solenoid and the pressure sensor. It didn't have any effect on it. I also adjusted the front band, no help there either. I've just lately found out if when I go to reverse if I go to park momentarily then back to drive it shifts correctly. Remember that when I go to reverse is when the problem occurs, that "triggers" it to extend the shifts. Of course going back to park momentarily would trigger a new sequence and maybe that is causing it to shift correctly. If I can isolate that one thing that would cause this.........
#13
the only thing that sticks out is that on a 1-2 shift the overrunning clutch comes of and the front band applys, i would wonder if the front servo had a internal leak?
if you want to build your own shift kit is almost he same as a transgo kit the only difference is they give you a valve and some spring which you really dont need. drill out your seperator plate and the park oiling hole, up the line pressure about a half to a whole turn clockwise and you should be good to go! save some money!
if you want to build your own shift kit is almost he same as a transgo kit the only difference is they give you a valve and some spring which you really dont need. drill out your seperator plate and the park oiling hole, up the line pressure about a half to a whole turn clockwise and you should be good to go! save some money!
#14
I have seen the kickdown linkage at the trans come loose and "bind" against the shifter linkage and cause a similar problem. The shifter linkage could be doing it to ( binding against the kickdown linkage). They are both on the same post coming out of the trans. Might be worth a look at ? Kind of wierd that shifting the lever will make it change......that make me think even more it could be in the linkage area.