these transmission flushes, do they help the shifting of the transmission??
i had a valve body and torque converter installed at 2000 miles i currently have 3000 on the truck now and everynow and then it will do some funny shifting.
only when it is light to moderate acceleration.
i have 3000 miles on it now and wondering what is wrong with it.
i have a downloader, but the trans acted fine until i had the torque converter and valve body installed. looking forward to your input thanks james

 

I can tell you mine shifts much better after the flush. Much smoother.

Jamie

 

Greyrig 305 don't expect a flush to repair a problem such as your describing.When fliud looses some of its probertys and total new fluid installed it will make torque convertor engaugement smoother and the shifts smoother.What your talking about is eaither a hard part or program problem.A flush is the only time I had customer after customer mention how much smoother theirs felt after we did it.Never those comments with a pan drop a few quarts and a filter.

 

i heard alot of people are having the same problem.(people that have vb and torque converter) i just don't know what it is..
it has to be something in the valve body, because it didn't do it until the valve body was installed it is a race valve body
it shifts fine when i bairly accellerate, and it shifts fine when i am in the throttle
it's only when i accellerate light to moderate

 

Anyone who services an auto trans with-out changing the filter is fooling them selves.
Flush it first then drop the pan to change the filter and inspect.

I had a minivan flushed last year and insisted the filter gets changed. Was willing to pay extra, of course. The shop agreed, and flushed then dropped the pan for the filter. He was quite surprised at the condition and said, the trans was going to fail BECAUSE the filter was needing to be changed.
Filter is always cheaper than a trans.
It shifts fine and cleaner than before.

 

BULL! depends on how long filter in use.Pulled and saw HUNDEREDS with 60k to 90k on them and didn't look any worse then ones at 15k or 30k.Including my own auto's/trucks.Lots of vehicles these days filter is not even serviced unless trans is open for major repair.Some others filter is metal screen that if its pulled is just washed in parts solvent and reinstalled.I flushed a 700r4 every 30k with filter every 90k for 253k.sold auto and two years later its still driving on same 700r4.Never found nothing unusal in pan or filter.Same Chervy 305 on oil filters every 7500 and oil every 22k to 25k(syn) Doing the same maintance on a 2000 Mercury Marquis L.E 4.6 rwd.All hiway miles on it which is light duty.

 

What does a tranny fluid flush cost at the dealership?

 

When the tranny is flushed, does it remove/clean sediment and particles from filter and from magnet? If not, then filter and magnet remain dirty and will dirty up new fluid, correct?

I'm a newbie so there's a GOOD chance I am missing something!!!!

Seems to me, that a flushing, filter cleaning, and magnet cleaning would be in order each time tranny is serviced??

 

I paid around $150.00

Jamie

 

I paid $180. for my full flush. I had changed the filter about 10k ago and put on a mag-hytec double deep pan and the dealer had a problem with my amsoil fluid I put in. I am having minor problems with my trans and was told before they do anything that i had to have it flushed. We will see what happens.

 

I have a manual on the truck, but autos on both cars. For a 1st service I'd drop the pan, clean things out, AND do a full flush. Dropping the pan typically only gets something like 2/3rds of the fluid. I just changed the ATF on the older car; unhooked the ATF cooler line at the radiator, attached some vinyl tubing and placed the end in an empty milk jug, had the wide start teh car and put it in neutral, when it was 3/4 full had her turn off the car, added 3 qts of ATF, drained 3 qts, etc. I ended up putting in 14 qts plus an additive.

 

What a long hard way to do a trans flush.Bet it was messy also.Leave the NEW filter until 60 or 90k.Lot less hassel to get a shop to do it then messing with THAT(and fliud disposal)in a driveaway or home garage.Some things are NOT worth doing yourself.

 

Metal remains on magnet and just catch's more.It dosen't dirty up new fliud.Its stuck to the magnet.

 

"I just changed the ATF on the older car; unhooked the ATF cooler line at the radiator, attached some vinyl tubing and placed the end in an empty milk jug, had the wife start the car and put it in neutral, when it was 3/4 full had her turn off the car, added 3 qts of ATF, drained 3 qts, etc. I ended up putting in 14 qts plus an additive."

It cost $30 for ATF at $1.60 a qt and a bottle of additive, took less than an hour, wasn't messy as one just moves the tube from jug to another, used a few paper towels and the jugs were a sheet of newspaper, and our local recycling takes fluids as long as they're in milk jugs. I use new, empty paint cans for oily rags and such, keep a bit of soap and water in them, and when they're full add a bit more water, just put the lid on and put it in the trash.

Dropping a pan for a fluid change will be messy, as will mixing up the input and return lines :^) when doing a full flush at home.

 

I had my transmission service done today, here's what my dealer did:

replaced filter and fluid, clean and reseal pan, road test vehicle:

filter - $18.50
gasket - $12.45
oil - $32.80
cleaner - $4.20
labor - $65.60