Well it took me about a year to get around to doing this (low priority)

1. took the four bolts off the balancer.... Check!

2. took the ring off and filed the counter clockwise side of the dowel hole... Check! (I have no idea if it is actually 2* but it is better than it was in the stock position)

3. re assemble with the tone ring turned clockwise.... Check!

4. Puzzle over the play in the balancer. Hmmm.... perhaps the dowl pin came out of the crank and is allowing the balancer to slop back and forth. Just thought of that as I was typing

5. tighten bolts to 30 foot pounds + 60*... that is another tough one to accuratly guage (the +60*) when the crank is moving with the wind up in the powertrain (manual stuck in gear)

So, three questions
does the balancer have any slop on the dowel pin?

how to accuratly guage the +60* additional twist on the balancer bolts after the 30 foot pounds?

If the balancer does have some slop does the balancer get twisted clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

It doesn't matter if there is any slop in the balancer pin hole - just make sure the ring is fully cw before tightening. I tq. mine to 90 ft/lbs. I'm pretty sure that's in the ballpark. 070" at the outer edge of the ring is 1 degree. I use a dial indicator. I've tried it in several places, before and after the Predator. Craig

 

Ooops....
I didn't want to advance it that much.

My tone ring was tight to the dowel with no play back and forth before I filed out the one side. I went back out and took another look at it and found I had advanced the tone ring a little more than the width of one tooth (without the gap). having done a search I determined that was about 6* I backed it off and advanced it about a half tooth.

I was getting pretty good milage with it advanced a tooth, I just don't know what I was screwing up having it set there....

what is 070" in 1/16ths? (I'm imperial challanged, Canadian eh!)

 

bump to the top

 

The search button is my friend.
The search button is my friend.
The search button is my friend...

Buried in here are some of the answers I was looking for.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=71543

The good stuff starts here, https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=71543 but there are still a couple more pages to skim through before finding another set of measurements.
I still have a bunch of reading to do.

the problem with this, is the information is not compiled into a nice neat little package. Digging through the discovery, development and deployment can end up leading a guy in the wrong direction. Completly my fault for jumping in without doing the proper reasearch first.

 

a 1/16th is .0625. sixty two and one half thousandths of an inch.

 

I doubt you can get 6* by only filing the pin hole unless the bolt hole are really sloppy. The first time I adjusted it, I filed the pin and the bolt holes and got a LOT of rattle when it was cold and gained 1/2 mpg. Then I used my dial to check exactly where it was. It was at 3.25*. I used the dial and ended up at 1.5*. Then it only rattled slightly when cold and I got another 1/2 mpg - for a total of 1mpg. So you can go too far and hurt mpg, too. I ended up with it at 2* with the Predator. I don't know why I can use more timing with a box that's supposed to be T&D. All I can guess is the addition of duration softens the bang when the injector fires. I started riding the company vanpool to work so it's going to be a long time before I know what my mpg is with the Predator and extra timing. I only use the truck for errands now. For you northeners who use metric - 1 degree is 1.778 mm at the edge of the ring. Us southeners are so used to our system, we have a very hard time with the much simpler metric system. Craig

 

what does the tone ring mod do?

 

It fools the Crank Sensor as to where the timing is and thus changes the fuel timing by up to several degrees. It quiets the motor, gives better fuel efficency and power at lower RPM. IIRC, it doesn't do much when cruisin the freeways at 2k RPM and up.