Tone Ring Help
#17
The Tone Ring Mod is a free mod that basically gives you the same result as using a Rokktech crankshaft timing sensor. With the TRM you can get a bit more timing which usually gives a boost in Off the Line performance plus better mileage. Do a search for the details on how to do it. I will be doing it soon. I have a Rokktech but it just doesn't seem to make a difference on this truck or the last truck I had. I definitely could feel the difference in the 03 SO truck that I used to own when I did the TRM....
#18
Okay did a search and this is how you do it, I dont understand the part which talks about "use a Dremel tool or a good round file and remove about an eighth inch off the left side of the hole as you look at the front of the tone ring, don't worry about taking too much off and the 4 bolts will only allow the tone ring to adjust so far". What are you grinding down? Help!
"Basically, it is doing about the same thing as the RokkTech Cam sensor by advancing the timing 2 maybe 3 degrees. Behind the Crank Pulley for the serpentine belt there is a Tone Ring. It has 4 bolt holes and a dowel pin hole. Take off the belt, loosen up the crank pulley and remove, the tone ring will then slide off. Now you will see the tone ring has the 4 bolt holes and an alignment pin, use a Dremel tool or a good round file and remove about an eighth inch off the left side of the hole as you look at the front of the tone ring, don't worry about taking too much off and the 4 bolts will only allow the tone ring to adjust so far. Now reinstall the tone ring and the belt sheave and finger tight the 4 bolts, install serpentine belt and make sure it is clear of the crank position sensor as it is a close tolerance . Now with the bolts just finger tight rotate the tone ring in a clock wise rotation as far as it will go...........this is looking at the FRONT of the motor. Secure the 4 bolts to 30ft.lbs. plus another 60 degrees per manual ( weird I know) or do like I did and just tighten the **** out of them. So the end result is you just advanced your timing about 2 or 3*. This mod is very simple to do and well worth the time, If you have a manual tranny it will be easy to do the bolts, if you have an auto tranny you will need a hammer to loosen them so the motor just doesn't rotate. Also check the bolt torque again after a week or so."
Thanks Whitmore!!!
"Basically, it is doing about the same thing as the RokkTech Cam sensor by advancing the timing 2 maybe 3 degrees. Behind the Crank Pulley for the serpentine belt there is a Tone Ring. It has 4 bolt holes and a dowel pin hole. Take off the belt, loosen up the crank pulley and remove, the tone ring will then slide off. Now you will see the tone ring has the 4 bolt holes and an alignment pin, use a Dremel tool or a good round file and remove about an eighth inch off the left side of the hole as you look at the front of the tone ring, don't worry about taking too much off and the 4 bolts will only allow the tone ring to adjust so far. Now reinstall the tone ring and the belt sheave and finger tight the 4 bolts, install serpentine belt and make sure it is clear of the crank position sensor as it is a close tolerance . Now with the bolts just finger tight rotate the tone ring in a clock wise rotation as far as it will go...........this is looking at the FRONT of the motor. Secure the 4 bolts to 30ft.lbs. plus another 60 degrees per manual ( weird I know) or do like I did and just tighten the **** out of them. So the end result is you just advanced your timing about 2 or 3*. This mod is very simple to do and well worth the time, If you have a manual tranny it will be easy to do the bolts, if you have an auto tranny you will need a hammer to loosen them so the motor just doesn't rotate. Also check the bolt torque again after a week or so."
Thanks Whitmore!!!
#19
Okay did a search and this is how you do it, I dont understand the part which talks about "use a Dremel tool or a good round file and remove about an eighth inch off the left side of the hole as you look at the front of the tone ring, don't worry about taking too much off and the 4 bolts will only allow the tone ring to adjust so far". What are you grinding down? Help!
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#20
There is a dowel pin that holds the ring in place behind the crank pulley. What you do is elongate that dowel pin hole, on the tone ring, which in turn gives you some adjustability with the ring. You can use a round file, a drill bit, or a dremel tool to make this hole into more of an oblong shape. You can't go too far because there is not much metal there.
Spinning the ring clockwise makes your ECM think the crank is further forward and adjusts the fueling accordingly. This is what gives the better bottom end power and also gets rid of some of the lag which helps your mileage.
Spinning the ring clockwise makes your ECM think the crank is further forward and adjusts the fueling accordingly. This is what gives the better bottom end power and also gets rid of some of the lag which helps your mileage.
#21
The first time I did this I spun it backwards because I was lying upside down and got confused. Doing that makes the truck more sluggish and does not help mileage. So, just pay attention to what you are doing...
#24
So then if it needs to go clockwise, you would file down the left corner of the dowel pin hole, if you are standing in front of the truck and looking at the truck? That will allow you to spin it clockwise right? Want to get it right the first time..
#25
Yes that is correct. Here is a write up I did way back when. This was posted at another site...
No pics but it's stupid simple. Behind the crankshaft dampner there is the tone ring which looks like a big sprocket. You pull the dampner off and the ring comes loose as it's held on by the same 4 bolts. I had to use a long handled ratchet w/ 15mm socket and a 3lb hammer to hit the ratchet to break the bolts loose. Pull the serpentine belt off and remove the bolts. Once it's off you will notice a dowel pin hole which is oblong. Hold the ring so the dowel pin hole is at the very top. All you do is drill or file the counterclockwise (left) side of the dowel pin hole about 1/16th". Now you can advance the ring enough that it actually gives you about 2 degrees of timing advance. It's basically doing what the Rokktech sensor does but for free! There is enough play in the bolt holes that you may even be able to give yourself some extra timing without even taking the ring off. Just loosen the crank bolts and see if you can spin the ring clockwise. Many people have found that theirs was all the way to the wrong side possibly causing poor performance and fuel mileage. This seems to be a part of the engine which is not meticulously assembled by our friends in Mexico. Some guys are even hogging the bolt holes out now so they can get even more timing. This mod is geared more toward stock trucks but being who we are even those of us with fueling boxes have to try this. The beauty is that if it doesn't work for you, you just loosen the bolts and put the ring back to the stock position... Mine seems to be fine so far but I have read about some trucks getting the timing rattle but I think they maybe just went too far.
No pics but it's stupid simple. Behind the crankshaft dampner there is the tone ring which looks like a big sprocket. You pull the dampner off and the ring comes loose as it's held on by the same 4 bolts. I had to use a long handled ratchet w/ 15mm socket and a 3lb hammer to hit the ratchet to break the bolts loose. Pull the serpentine belt off and remove the bolts. Once it's off you will notice a dowel pin hole which is oblong. Hold the ring so the dowel pin hole is at the very top. All you do is drill or file the counterclockwise (left) side of the dowel pin hole about 1/16th". Now you can advance the ring enough that it actually gives you about 2 degrees of timing advance. It's basically doing what the Rokktech sensor does but for free! There is enough play in the bolt holes that you may even be able to give yourself some extra timing without even taking the ring off. Just loosen the crank bolts and see if you can spin the ring clockwise. Many people have found that theirs was all the way to the wrong side possibly causing poor performance and fuel mileage. This seems to be a part of the engine which is not meticulously assembled by our friends in Mexico. Some guys are even hogging the bolt holes out now so they can get even more timing. This mod is geared more toward stock trucks but being who we are even those of us with fueling boxes have to try this. The beauty is that if it doesn't work for you, you just loosen the bolts and put the ring back to the stock position... Mine seems to be fine so far but I have read about some trucks getting the timing rattle but I think they maybe just went too far.
#27
Cummins Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 64
From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Tighten bolts to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque, plus an additional 60°. Make sure you tighten her up good or you'll be buying more then a tone ring next time. If you don't have a barring tool you can take off inspection cover on bell housing and use pry bar to hold crankshaft when tightening bolts.
#29
Well, thanks to you guys my wife was looking at me strangely again this morning while I was pulling parts off my perfectly good running truck. I went ahead and did the TRM and I installed my 180 degree stat too. With the TRM I ended up doing it twice because I really noticed no difference with just opening the dowel pin hole up. I pulled it off again and hogged the bolt holes out a little bit too. Now when it's cold I get the slightest timing rattle. I feel just the slightest amount of extra power off the line too. It is very minimal though. Hopefully I will get an increase in mileage. That's what I'm really after anyways.
The reason I put the lower temp stat in is that my temps stayed right at 200 degrees once the truck warmed up and the oil pressure was kind of low when the temps were that high. The OP stayed barely above the minimum "Normal" line. I also could hear a slight knocking when the OP was that low. Now the temps stay way cool and the OP is almost 1/4" further over on the guage. No more knocking either. This stat is good for the summer only because when it gets cold out the truck will never warm up....
The reason I put the lower temp stat in is that my temps stayed right at 200 degrees once the truck warmed up and the oil pressure was kind of low when the temps were that high. The OP stayed barely above the minimum "Normal" line. I also could hear a slight knocking when the OP was that low. Now the temps stay way cool and the OP is almost 1/4" further over on the guage. No more knocking either. This stat is good for the summer only because when it gets cold out the truck will never warm up....