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those of you running leveling kits

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Old 11-15-2006, 10:33 AM
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those of you running leveling kits

I want to get a 2.5" leveling kit for my 03,however when i put one on my 01 the steering geometry was way off and i could never get it correct,so basically i need to know what kit to get and what other components to make it correct and not have suspension issues down the road.thanks
Old 11-15-2006, 10:46 AM
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If you want proper steering/suspension geometry you need to replace the track bar no matter which kit you get. I recommend Don Thuren's track bar. The rest is up to you, but I would use taller coil springs and longer shocks to get the lift you want. Check out Lorenz Industries ($505) and KORE Performance ($565) for their level kits. Good luck!
Old 11-15-2006, 10:59 AM
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i have 2" spacers on my o6 with the factory shocks and nothing else changed. my truck drives as straight as it did with 2 miles on it and now it has 15k...
Old 11-15-2006, 12:09 PM
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i've had the 2" steel spacers with factory shocks, then some Superlift leveling springs (2") with Bilstein shocks, and now i have Kore's Recon kit (3"). I've never had any steering related issues.
Old 11-15-2006, 12:48 PM
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Just a thought, but I lowered the rear of my 4 wd to level it. Cheaper and still easy. Not sure how easy that would be on your DRW though.
Old 11-15-2006, 01:26 PM
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I maybe opening a can of worms and I am sure it is just a personal preference but the reason our trucks sit A$$ high is because these trucks are towing machines and placing a load either in the bed or towing something behind levels the truck (cheapest way to level the truck ). When guys level these trucks and then put heavy items in the bed or tow any significant weight then the truck sits A$$ low . Just my personal preference is to leave the truck in its original rake when lifting the truck .
Old 11-15-2006, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Thundercloud
I maybe opening a can of worms and I am sure it is just a personal preference but the reason our trucks sit A$$ high is because these trucks are towing machines and placing a load either in the bed or towing something behind levels the truck (cheapest way to level the truck ). When guys level these trucks and then put heavy items in the bed or tow any significant weight then the truck sits A$$ low . Just my personal preference is to leave the truck in its original rake when lifting the truck .

i dont tow anything of significant weight so that is not really a concern.besides i have airbags in the back that i could use to level it if i wanted.I dont rerally want a "lift" just want to get rid of the 80's rake
Old 11-15-2006, 03:26 PM
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If all you're concerned with is getting rid of the stink bug look get the $99 dollar spacer of ebay and call it good.
Old 11-15-2006, 05:41 PM
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ive installed the daystar 2in spacer and a 1 in block in the rear for a bit of rake........I tow a boat and 5th wheel so I hate to see the rear end lower that the front. anyhow, no alignment here, drives straight and no tire wear ??? I read everywhere that it would have to be done, but I guess not on this application
Old 11-15-2006, 05:43 PM
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Just lift both ends!!
Old 11-15-2006, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Thundercloud
I maybe opening a can of worms and I am sure it is just a personal preference but the reason our trucks sit A$$ high is because these trucks are towing machines and placing a load either in the bed or towing something behind levels the truck (cheapest way to level the truck ). When guys level these trucks and then put heavy items in the bed or tow any significant weight then the truck sits A$$ low . Just my personal preference is to leave the truck in its original rake when lifting the truck .
Great Advice...I am running the KORE HD levelling kit, and while I love what it has done for the truck, I have this issue while loaded.
Thanks for the simple solution.
Old 11-15-2006, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by danimal 95
I dont rerally want a "lift" just want to get rid of the 80's rake
Is the 80's rake any different the the rakes I was doing in the late 50's????

I was going to lift mine also, but then I though about what would happen when I tow the rockcrawler, so I left it alone.
Old 11-16-2006, 09:31 AM
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FL_Diesel and I lowered our trucks at the same time, he pulls a good size camper and I pull a reasonable size boat. I know I am not taxing the suspension, the tongue weight hardly drop my back end and FL_Diesel said his camper doesn't make his look low either. I don't know how much weight you are adding to make it look low but just moving the spacers and hooking up the boat it still sits a little high in the back. If I do get the bigger boat I want I MAY have to put a spacer or both back in.

Besides, if I level it by lifting the front, then load it in the back, the back will sag just as much either way. So unless I do something to the suspension to stiffen it up, if I load the back it will sag the same.
Old 11-16-2006, 10:54 AM
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I know I've said this before so if I sound like a broken record please excuse me, but I had a 1200 lb golf cart in the bed and my 9000 lb (loaded) travel trailer coupled to the truck, and with my weight distribution hitch the truck sat perfectly level. And thats with a 2" coilspring lift up front and factory suspension in the rear.
Old 11-16-2006, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ptgarcia
I know I've said this before so if I sound like a broken record please excuse me, but I had a 1200 lb golf cart in the bed and my 9000 lb (loaded) travel trailer coupled to the truck, and with my weight distribution hitch the truck sat perfectly level. And thats with a 2" coilspring lift up front and factory suspension in the rear.
Thank you, I think that is what I was trying to say. You raised your front and left the rear suspension stock, then dropped a load on it and it looked level. I instead relocated the shims on the rear axle to get the same net effect (except my entire truck sits about 1.5 inches lower than yours) so when I load it, it looks level too.


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