Bad Ramer Jamer

I've read countless thread's about trani flush's. I've had it done twice at the dealer, and I'm a firm believer in it. Now, I really need to do one, but am a little tight on money, so I want to do it myself. I read somewhere that the torque converter has a drain plug. So, has anyone physically seen this, and drained the converter. Or is this an internet rumor. Anyone know how many quart's I would need draining the converter and loosing the valve body. Thank's.

On a side note, my part's guy is willing to sell me ATF +4 for 25% off. I really wanted to switch to Amsoil, or something simular, and go with a deep pan. But I think for now I'll just use +4 till I can save some money for the full blown upgrade.

fredbert

I guess you didn't get the Drain Plug Convenience Package option! Lack of drain plugs for the torque converter, automatic transmission and differential is shameful, especially since they expect you to change those fluids so frequently. The D part of DC has had all of the above since at least 1970.

Gunrunner

No drain plug on converter-------I haven't looked under my 05 yet, but on my buddies' 95, we removed the tranny temp sensor from the pressure line down at the tranny and put a 3/8" X 4in. nipple in it's place, then slid a piece of hose onto the nipple and pumped out the old oil while dumping new in the top. Works perfect!! On my suburban I have a tee and a valve on the pressure line up by the cooler, works same way just a LOT easier. When it warms up a little I'll do the same thing or similar to my 05.

XZILR8N

I saw this procedure for flushing automatic transmissions on the Auto-RX website. I have not tried it, so use at your own risk. Others may want to chime in with their opinions as to how effective this might be in doing your own transmission flush. After reading the procedure I would think you might need to put a hose on the return line of the ATF cooler and insert it into a bottle of new transmission fluid, otherwise I would think it might suck in air on the return line?

Anyway here is the procedure as it was written

"...drop pan, change filter, reinstall. Measuring the old fluid in pan into a milk bottle type container, install that amount of new ATF back into transmission. Disconnect BOTH ATF cooler lines at radiator and place a container or pan under each line end (helps to have an assistant). Start engine, shut down after 1 or 2 quarts have come out one of the lines. Refill exact amount of fresh fluid in transmission (this keeps air out of the system).

Start engine again and repeat until clean fluid is coming out of cooler line. This is messy and time consuming but will purge all old ATF from transmission and torque converter. Reinstall cooler lines and start car, cycle through gears, place in park and check level per owners manual. Check for leaks. Top up as necessary after driving and heated up. Don't overfill.

You just safely flushed the whole system, no T-TEC $ cost..."

Maybe this method will do what you need to do in a pinch. Good luck!

WA4SLC

I used a simular procedure on my old 2001, except what did was take the return line from the cooler loose at the side of the transmission.

Gunrunner

My 1995 suburban has 295,000 miles on it (lots of them towing), and I have flushed the tranny twice a year, using pressure line since new---no air, no problems. IT WORKS---no need to unhook both lines---talk to a tranny shop, they'll tell you the same thing. Just my 2 cents---take it for what it's worth.

Mallard

is changing the filter and associated fluid good enough or is a complete flush required ?? never done it yet, how much fluid gets replaced from dropping the filter pan vs. a flush. is it 3 of the 4 quarts or ??

gatf4

Can we drill a hole in the Torque convertor? 1/8 NPT plug? I would think you could?

Drop the pan and and install a drain plug in the pan, then your good to go. I've got 25K on my truck so I'll be doing something soon.

TexasCTD

The stock pan is supposed to hold 5 quarts. I added a Mag Hytec DD pan which is supposed to add 4 quarts over stock...and it holds 9.

Currently, I am draining the fluid and dropping the pan every 15K and replacing the Tranny filter. Then reinstalling the MH pan and adding back the 9 quarts.

I would think you could do the same thing with the stock pan, just a little more messy without the drain plug.

It doesn't get all of the fluid out, but since im doing it every 15k I figured that it will do fine. Maybe I should consider a full flush every 60k or so?

XZILR8N

According to my shop manual:

48RE

Service Fill w/filter change: 3.8L (4 Quarts)

Over Haul: 14 - 16L (29 - 33 Pints)

Standard Procedure Transmission Fill:

To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul perform the following procedure:

(This assumes you are parked on level ground and be sure to clean off all dirt from dipstick handle and top of filler tube before removing to avoid contamination of fluids)

1. Remove dipstick and insert clean funnel in transmission fill tube.

2. Add following of initial quantity Mopar ATF +4 to transmission:

a) If only fluid and filter were changed add 3 pints (1 1/2 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.

b) If transmission was completely overhauled, torq converter was replaced or drained, and cooler was flushed, add 12 pints (6 quarts) of ATF + 4 to transmission.

3. Apply Parking Brakes

4. Start and run engine at normal curb idle speed

5. Apply service brakes, shift transmission through all gear ranges then back to neutral, set parking brake, and leave engine running at curb idle.

6. Remove funnel, insert dipstick and check fluid level. If level is low, add fluid to bring level to MIN mark on dipstick. check to see if oil level is equal on both sides of dipstick. If one side is noticably higher than the other, the dipstick has picked up some oil for the dipstick tube. Allow the oil to drain down the dispstick tube and re-check.

7. Drive vehicle until transmission fluid is at normal operating temperature.

8. With the engine running at curb idle speed, the gear selector in NEUTRAL, and the parking brake applied, check the transmission level.

CAUTION: Do not overfill transmission, fluid foaming and shifting problems can result!

9. Add fluid to bring up to the MAX arrow mark.

When fluid level is correct, shut off engine, remove funnel and install dipstick to fully seated position in fill tube.

Anyway, that should answer questions as to how much fluid to use either way you do it.

underwoodtransp

you know I was thinking the same thing. But the problem I see is you don't know where you are drilling and if you hit one of the fins or something inside there you just ruined the converter. But on the bright side when you install that bd converter it will have a drain for next time!!

gatf4

HMMM, .50$ drain plug for the convertor or $1300 for a new convertor that comes with a plug? That's actually a harder decision than people might think

underwoodtransp

as long as you don't mind the gamble??

gatf4

What gamble. I really need to replace my torque convertor. Maybe that is a good excuse to change it. " But Honey, there was no drain plug, so I had to buy a new one"

underwoodtransp

I think that will go over like a fart in church.. Thats why I started my own business to hide the mods under "business expense" it is called "automobile maintence". She doesn't know half the stuff I buy anymore.