About a month ago the lift pump on my filter housing died while I was 700 miles from home. It was replaced with the in-tank retrofit kit and from the second I left the dealer it felt down on power, but at least it started and ran so I was happy. Well leaving work today in Milwaukee it died right in the middle of the road. 3,110 miles since it was installed. I am over 100k miles so no warrantee is left but it was replaced with 490 miles left so I lucked out there. I must say that I didn't expect this, and I haven't heard many stories about the in-tank pump dying. So how common is this? The pump doesn't even grunt, not a sound from it.

So I'm looking up a Glacier setup now so I can change it myself but I still hate the idea of an external pump. I can't wait to drive to The Pas, MB this summer knowing how quickly the pump goes. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge either.

Andy

 

The in-tank lift pump installed from factory is extremely reliable, it's the ones the dealership mechanics install that have had a couple of problems. Most mechanics are great people but with the advent of the internet only one can make it sound like all of them are incompetent. Maybe the connector for power came loose, since you say you can hear nothing. I would check things out before spending a bunch of money on some other product. Maybe even talk to the dealer about the lift pump going out since it hasn't been that long since you installed it. Maybe they will replace it for free.

 

realsquash, why do you hate the idea of an external pump? I love mine, and I can't think of any disadvantage that it has compared to the in-tank.

 

you should have a 12month/12,000mile warranty on parts MOPAR WARRANTY

 

I think the idea of an external pump is the only way to go. If I have a problem with my Walbro, I can probably change it out in less than 10 minutes. Of course I'll get diesel up and down my sleeves and probably in my ear again...
Now try to drop your tank in the same amount of time.... good luck...

 

I have had external pumps in the past and all they seem to do is eat themselves up. In-tank pumps are much more reliable in my experience. I'm hoping this is covered under part warrantee, but if I have to pay a $100 deductible like I did for the first one I might just put that towards the tow home so I can fix it myself. It's nice to be able to change the external pump but the in-tank pumps work much better in general. Has anyone tried to run w/o any lift pump like the Dmax? Maybe I should try that!

Andy

 

And for what it's worth I think I can get the bed bolts out and get it out of the way easilly enough if there's nothing in it. Funny tho, both times the pump went out there was a lot of heavy stuff in the bed!

Andy

 

i have 2 pairs of needle nose vise grips that i ground the teeth off, to make the jaws nice and smooth. i am going to get a spare pump for my BD, and just use the vise grips to clamp the hoses. no diesel down the arm, just what is contained in the pump cavity.

 

Dodgezilla, good idea... thanks

We have too much restriction to allow the cp3 to draw fuel like the Dmax. Don't try it cause it won't work. As far as external pumps having problems... I don't see it. Yes I've seen it with "Holley" type pumps. Never with the EFI style pumps that we are running. These are the same pumps the OE's use in tank and out of tank. Powerful and reliable. There is NO comparison between a Walbro392 and the stock pump. None whatsoever...

 

My stock lift pump went out and i got the in-tank lift pump and like you said, my truck also seemed to be down on power since the change. I hope mine lasts more than 3000 miles. At least i have miles left on my warranty

 

I would go back to the dealer and explain what happened. They should replace the pump for nothing, maybe just charge the labor. I agree with isbinside above. Have you had the pump longer than a year?

 

My pump was replaced about a month ago, and 3110 miles ago so it's under 12/12000 if that's what it's covered under. The dealer seems to be confused at the retrofit kit, they can't figure out the wiring or something? It's not complicated, I think they are just busy today.

As for nixing the lift pump, where are the extra restrictions as compared to the dmax? I've read fuel lines but I can make new ones. Is the filter housing more restrictive than the dmax? Perhaps the filter itself? Is the CP3 on a Dmax lower than the bottom of the fuel tank?

Andy

 

Dont neglect to fix your open elbows on top of your tanks guys. there wide open letting water and crud right into your tanks. crud that will ruin the lift pump because your running unfiltered fuel through those lift pumps.
And yes it would be interesting to know why the duro. doesnt need a lift pump and we do. Added restrictions only tells why we want to know what they are.

 

I know the DMax uses the same cp3 that we do, however, I believe it is geared differently than ours creating more suction on the supply side. Could be wrong but I think I read that somewhere... So you're not really comparing apples to apples here...

 

My CTD in my sig now has over 120K stock lift pump, which is being replaced right after Christmas before the stock lift pump does go bad. I am going with the Walbro from Richard over at Glacier. I already have his Big Line kit from the filter housing to the IP w/ gauge. When I first start it up inthe morning, FP is fine, @ 11-12PSI. After a day of work, and come home, check it....@ 2-3PSI I believe in maintenance on a fuel system. I change my fuel filter every other oil change, which is between 7-10K miles, as I change my oil every 3500-5000 miles. I also run fuel additives and cleaners every few tanks or so. I bought my truck with 90K miles on it, and with the above serviced I have picked up 1.5 full MPG since I bought the truck. My first couple of fuel filter changes, the filters were NASTY. Now, when I change them (last one at 118K) they still look good.

Now, the reason I am going with Richard and Glacier, few reasons:
1)When I bought his Big Line kit, it was missing 1 washer/O-ring for the AN/pipe straight fitting that screws into the IP. I called Richard up, and he overnights me the washer/O-ring. THAT is customer service.

2)After the experience with the Big Line kit, I called Richard again, asking questions about his Walbro GSL391 and 392 kits. The couple times I called, he answered the phone, and took his time explaining everyting to me, THAT is also customer service.

3)After 6 months and 15K miles on the Big Line kit, no leaks, everything is just like day one, good product.

4)After doing ALOT of research on the Walbro and FASS system, I fill that both are great products, but the Walbro wins out for me for reasons that are of no concern, so as to NOT start a "Walbro is better than FASS" or "FASS is better than Walbro" debate, and I add in the fact that Richard has been Johnny on the spot with his customer service, goes a LONG way in making my decision easier as well.

I am going with the GSL-392, since my upgrades to my CTD will not stop with my Bully Dog and exhaust mods

Future upgrades will be: Phat Shaft from Ind. Inj., stacked boxes, injectors, modified CP3 with dual feed line from Ind. Inj., 5" exhaust.

My original goal for my truck was 350/700 @ the tires. But, seeing how easy that was, I figure 450+/900+ is where I want to be now