Sticky throttle bad shifting
#16
I believe that I found out why the pedal feels sticky. The part where there are three cable routed to beside the valve cover, when you manually depress the throttle cable, it moves about an eighth of an inch before it picks up the tv cable going to the trans. Any thoughts???
The TV cable in the housing tends to get sticky. I have had to pull the cable and housing completely out, wash it out with brake cleaner or carb cleaner then lube it again and problem solved.
#17
Took it for a spin after I reset the apps and battery disconnection for about 45 minutes. Lubed the assembly at the trans so it slides smooth when you press the accellerator and also lubed the cable inside the apps to make sure it slid good. When you press hte accellerator, it feels smooth now but the problem is still there. I didn't disconnect any cables from the apps to pinpoint the problem because I wasn't sure where to disconnect the from. It seems like the cable going from the apps to the bell looking thing under the battery is fitted with something at the apps that won't let you disconnect it there and I didn't tear the bell housing apart to see if I could disconnect there. At about 125 degrees on the trans temp is when the situation occurs. It seems like it is building pressure until it finally lets go and shifts. It shifted today at 2500 rpm in both 1st and 2nd gears and probably would do the same in 3rd but I didn't have enough runway for that. STill if you blip the throttle fast about half way down it will automatically upshift. I don't know....
#18
DO you mean to take the TV assembly off the side of the trans, then press the accellerator to see if it's sticking? The trans guys put in a new vb so don't you think they would have tested the linkage inside the vb when re-installing? I manually pressed the linkage with my finger beside the trans and it feels smooth.
#19
DO you mean to take the TV assembly off the side of the trans, then press the accellerator to see if it's sticking? The trans guys put in a new vb so don't you think they would have tested the linkage inside the vb when re-installing? I manually pressed the linkage with my finger beside the trans and it feels smooth.
#20
TV cable stick or worn somewhere, VB throttle linkage worn inside VB. Pull the TV cable off so its working when you use the throttle and see if thats helps the stickiness.
Should the TV cable have any slack in it at the APPS? Like I said before, it has about 1/8 in. gap before the gas pedal picks it up.
Should the TV cable have any slack in it at the APPS? Like I said before, it has about 1/8 in. gap before the gas pedal picks it up.
#21
Yes, thats about right for WOT. That may be part of your problem if its too tight. AT WOT throttle there should be about 1/8 inch play in the the TV cable sliding back and forth for a starting point.
#22
I'll try to take the tv cable off at the apps to see if it's that. Question though... You said earlier that if the pedal feels stiffer as you press on it, that the vb could be sending back pressure to the circuit. I did notice that the arm back beside the trans did get harder to push the further it went in. What I don't understand is why would the ecm be reading pressures all over the place at about 0 to 1/4 throttle at low rpm? Can we rule out the tps? Also, if I disconnect the tv at the apps, will I still notice the problem if the trans is shifting all over the place or will it just stack shift? I appreciate your patience. THanks
#23
I just had a thought. If it was the tv cable sticking in or out of the trans, why would the problem quit as soon as blip the throttle. If it was the cable, it would seem to reason that it would stick all the time. Because remember as soon as you blip hte throttle, it's fine but as soon as you take it out of D, the problem occurs again.
#24
The ECM only reads governor pressures from gov pressure transducer. It could be doing that because the transducer is bad, the gov solenoid is bad or the VB is back feeding pressure into the gov circuit which can happen if the VB is not built right or a passage cracks in the case, or several other things.
The TV lever should get stiffer the farther you push it as it is spring loaded.
Disconnect the TV cable at the trans and drive it to see if it is still sticky.
I have seen one wire in the cable pop loose and intermittently throw a snag in the cable you can feel. Pop the throttle quick it will go back into place and be good untilthe strain pops it loose again.
It is really sounding like you have a problem internal to the trans somewhere though. The APPS just tells the ECM what its opening is and if you aren't getting any codes it is probably good.
Don't remeber if you said, have you tried to pull any codes?
The TV lever should get stiffer the farther you push it as it is spring loaded.
Disconnect the TV cable at the trans and drive it to see if it is still sticky.
I have seen one wire in the cable pop loose and intermittently throw a snag in the cable you can feel. Pop the throttle quick it will go back into place and be good untilthe strain pops it loose again.
It is really sounding like you have a problem internal to the trans somewhere though. The APPS just tells the ECM what its opening is and if you aren't getting any codes it is probably good.
Don't remeber if you said, have you tried to pull any codes?
#25
Yea, there are no codes. What gets me is that the trans place said that they put in a new vb, gov, solenoid and transducer. Unless they are lying to me. They have a dyno that they put all their rebuilds on to test them before they install back into the vehicle. They said it ran PERFECT on the dyno and as soon as it's in the truck, the problem starts. I'll check again for the snag though. The readings they were getting was from where you connect the unit to check for codes. That's where they were getting numbers jumping all over the place. My other problem is that if I take it to another trans shop to have them look at it, it's going to cost more $ and may void my trans warranty. You also may want to know that they drilled a hole or two (I believe in the vb) so that the trans would be getting fluids while idling. It may not be in the vb but they said that those trans don't pump fluid or cool themselves while idling in D. Does any of that make sense to you? The reason is so that you don't overheat the trans while sitting in traffic. It also seems like you and I have our own little thread going on here. hahah
#26
Did you see them run it on the dyno and verify it worked fine?
Drilling a couple holes or other things to get the trans to flow fluid in park is normal, they all circulate in gear and neutral.
The fact they drilled on the VB does raise some concerns. If they didn't do it right its a problem. Ifyou can vaerify its not the cable sticking and causing the problem I really doubt its the ECU or APPS. More than likely its a botched VB job, but, thats internet diagnosis for ya.
Drilling a couple holes or other things to get the trans to flow fluid in park is normal, they all circulate in gear and neutral.
The fact they drilled on the VB does raise some concerns. If they didn't do it right its a problem. Ifyou can vaerify its not the cable sticking and causing the problem I really doubt its the ECU or APPS. More than likely its a botched VB job, but, thats internet diagnosis for ya.
#27
I didn't see them do anything including put in a new vb. I just found a guy who teaches diesel mech. school not too far from me so I think I might have him look at it and see what he can tell me. I still think it's the vb or gov. sel., but I still don't understand why it will stop if you blip hte throttle until you take the lever out of D again. Any thoughts on that aspect of it?
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