Shorts, the incline will not affect the magnet working, but you already figured that out. At this time I don't think the rough spots are cause for alarm, especially since you didn't find anything of interest on the magnet. I would proceed with the seal replacement and have the play in the pinion checked at the same time. Sad to say but the fluid may be lost if any adjustment is needed.

On a side note, did you get a heavier weight fluid from the dealer or go after market? I think you're suppose to add a friction modifier if you don't use dealer fluid that already has it included but I'd have to look around to be sure.

 

Trad, I used 75w140 Mobil 1. You made me hop up and double check when you mentioned additive so I snapped a photo of 90 & 140 together. I know with the 90 I did not need to use additive. I was on the assumption I wouldn't need it with the 140. Will look and confirm.

Yeah, I'm resolving myself to the fact I might lose the fluid. Oh well, I got to play with my torque wrench that I love

 

If this is your front differential like I think it is, you won't need any friction modifier. You won't have a limited slip that requires it in the front. On your AAM axles, the limited slip unit you may have in the rear won't require it either, they don't have clutch discs like most others do.

 

Those gears look awesome! Run 'em!
As far as a pinion seal goes, easy as pie. in fact it was a 2 beer job on my '03 one ton dually.
1- drop the driveline, get a big 3/4 drive impact wrench and proper deep socket.
2- Rattle off the nut and using a small 6oz hammer, tap the yoke off,
3- Using a screwdriver, lever the old seal out and wipe the housing with a paper towel and solvent.
4- smear some RTV silicone sealer with your finger on the seal circumference and using a socket that fits the seal face, tap it in with a little bigger hammer gently and evenly.
5- smear some wheel bearing grease on the splines and slide the yoke back on, tap a few times and that'll seat it pretty well.
6- Install nut and rattle down to tight or torque it to the spec, whichever you're good with.
7- Reset driveline and tighten the bolts, done deal...

easy
took me about an hour to do it all together.

 

Like the others have stated,you do not need to add any friction modifier to the Mobil fluids for this application.

Yes! It is possible to make due by short cutting the proper replacement procedure by placing a mark on the pinion/pinion nut and/or counting the threads showing on the pinion and tightening the pinion nut to that point and then one more increment for good measure. The use of RTV sealant in order to assure a good seal is implemented because there is a good chance that the crush sleeve can be crushed and compromise the bearings by using the "good-n-tight method". At the end of the day, the choice to utilize that process is yours. However, keep in mind that is not the recommended method, and may result in premature pinion bearing failure and or seal leakage in short time which occurs quite often. Does this method work for many people...sure it does! I just want you and others to be aware that the proper method requires proper torque values, Miller tools and does not involve sealants.

 

Got word back from my buddy after showing my photos to his driveline guy. He recommended towing it in and having the pinion bearing play checked and the R&P alignment checked. So, I'm going to set that up.

Yall don't look at me that way for dragging it to the dealer, I know, I know. But considering the R&P is on the line at minimum, and the entire axle worst case, I'm going to err on the side of caution.

I have a feeling about that pinion bearing though. I've had a vibe for the last 20k that I cannot find and I am hoping they do find it the problem. It has driven me nuts. The closest issue to that is there is slight side to side play at the tcase output and I've suspected it for my vibe problem but couldn't verify it.

Will keep you guys updated. I appreciate the help on this.

 

The wear on the pinion gear is not correct. In a properly aligned (shimmed) ring/pinon you will not have those types of marks, they should be evenly marked with a polish not scarring. The lack of wear on the edges of the pinion gear is a strong indicator.

Good luck kid.

 

Thanks for the eyes Tim. And the luck

 

Got a call just now. Marty (the service guy) said they found a chip in the pinion gear and wear on the ring teeth. He essentially described what my pics show. (I did not show them my pics at all). But they do not see anything alarming, like chips or metal in the diff that would indicate a big problem. Marty said their plan of action at this point is to change out the seal. He did recommend keeping this R&P as it wasn't necessary to replace. He said that would just get expensive for no reason at this point. (I did appreciate that bit of CS effort and no upsell attempt). They will inspect for any hidden damage once the seal is out. If it looks good, they'll replace the seal and test drive. In the event they find a problem he'll call me back. So, that's where we stand.

 

That's at least some good news, if it holds. Fingers and eyes crossed here Shorts.

 

I would still exercise caution, ring gears don't just chip for no reason. Change out the seal and just keep a close eye on it.

 

I agree. I pressed a bit for "why" but never got an answer. I was given the impression if nothing else was seen when the seal was changed and the truck test drove fine, that would be the end of it. That made/makes me uncomfortable. I asked if there are some measurements could be taken to see what was out of alignment and Marty went into explaining setting the crush washer.

Guys, any suggestion what I should flat out ask or address before I take the truck back? What have I not inquired about that I should to cover my end?

 

Sending you a PM

 

I would ask about this vibration that you have been experiencing for the last 20k. The side to side play in the transfer case would concern me as it could be the yoke or driveshaft balance issue.

 

Marty just called, the truck is ready. To cover my bases I asked him flat out why the teeth would contact each other like that. He said maybe some dirt or debris got in there and got crunched up. I asked if the slack in the drivetrain was appropriate and he said it was acceptable/normal and definitely not excessive. I asked if the contact patch on the R&P was correct, he said it is and looks great. He said the test drive was great, no abnormal vibration. He said "Well you know how the truck drives and feels better than we do but if just feel like it's probably the tires".

So, soon as I can get ride I can go get the truck.


Dr Dizzle, that front dshaft has always sat in the back of my mind. Can those things be balanced out like the rear shaft? I told arty yesterday that I have had a vibration and I have suspected the front driveshaft. But he didn't go into that part other than to say "Well we will test drive it to see how it feels". And they have done that.

Will see how the truck feels. I'm not expecting it will be different than before it went in.