Ridgetop

Long story short here. 06 spd 3500 srw w/ 40000 miles. Thought I ran it low on fuel. Added 5 gallons from a can that may have been contaminated w/a little water. Wouldnt start. Changed fuel filter, syphoned all diesel I could out and added 15 gallons fresh fuel. Still no start. Getting heavy flow through water seperator drain(fuel filter housing). This has drug out for a couple months now as truck has not been needed. Batteries died and after multiple recharges wouldnt hold full charge. Bought and installed two new Diehard Platinum AGM batteries no start but turned and wanted to run. Started and ran briefly on a very,very,light distant mist of ,Im not gonna say it. Thought it was mabey grid heater and for a brief period of time that my Sentry key had deprogrammed. Inspected up and down fuel supply and return to tank. Been buried searchin in old posts and came across Cascade Overflow Valve issues. Removed turned key and primed CP3. Bingo!!!Problem after it starts the rpms start to build an awful clack gets louder and louder. Kill ignition truck continues to run. Put the truck in gear and let the clutch out to stop the idling. This happens two more times after but I do a good job of stalling the truck out before RPMs build to a point that the clacking gets too bad. Any ideas appreciated . Could it be air still in the fuel sys? Bad injector. Bad CP3? Cant get any codes out of odometer. oh yeah when it did fire a made a cloud of white smoke 4 times as big as the truck. Truck may still be under warranty Bought Nov 05. I would rather avoid dealer unless its a major issue. I feel like I should be finishing my stereo install and mabey installing the 6" Revtec lift layin on the ground next to the truck instead of chasin this gremlin. Any thoughts/ideas greatly appreciated. I start a job next week and sure would like to be able to drive myself to work. Thanx Phil

1-2-3

If it's warranty, let it be someone elses problem. leave the lift off untill it's running right.

Ridgetop

I would but my experience with dealers and warranty service has always been frustrating to say the least. Seems like dealer is always lookin for or makin up a reason why they cant fix it under warranty instead of the best way to fix it under warranty. Stuff like we need to see all your oil change receipts before we can cover a blown door speaker. My ex wife called me about a year ago cryin because dealer wanted 1500 dollars to do a fuel injection sys flush on her year old SUV. Apparently the service manager was convinced that she had filled the gastank with diesel. Her 40$ receipt from earlier that day that came from a station that didnt even sell diesel but that wasnt enough proof they were "convinced" the tank was full of diesel fuel. Luckily I happened to be building a dealership two buildings down and made it over there with a glass bottle fo a sample. After looking at and smelling the fuel with two techs and the service manager they were still convinced that it was diesel. At that point I considered getting violent but held it together long enough to get out of there with the sample and send it to a lab on my dime. I wasnt going to leave it to them so somebody could dump it out and send a bottle of diesel to the lab. Finally with a report from the lab and the mfg's rep stongarming the dealer they replaced the fuel pump under warranty. I told them not to worry about flushing the fuel injection system. No problems since with the suv but as we left the three dip***** at the dealership made a point of telling me they were still convinced that she filled it up with diesel. So for the saftey of the service dpt and in the interest of continuing to be a member of free society Id just assume fix it myself if it is possible.

Ridgetop

Dont even get me started about my experiences with GM on my last truck.

rich

water kills thes injectors could be an injector or 2. could fca ore even the rail pressure control need to pull those 2 out and clean them. mslightly shake the fca it should ratttle a little if it doesn its bad. if your cp was bad it wouldnt probably even start or it would barely run. you have a way to check your rail pressure

Lost Lake

06 trucks have a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty. The engine is good for 100,000 mile warranty. Maybe take it to a Cummins dealer and see what they say. Or find a new Dodge dealer. Not every on e is a crook, but everyone I have ever been to is.

jballou

If it won't shut off it is the FCA, that is what stops the fuel flow to shut it off.

TedT

If it won't shut off and it clatters really loudly, it sure sounds like an injector or injectors rusted and stuck open from the water in the fuel. The FCA may also be stuck, keeping the fuel pressure high enough to keep the engine running.
Ted

Ridgetop

Right on guys that is the kind info Im lookin for. Long story but Im stuck at home with no drivers license, no way to get to the parts store to buy any of the test equip I need. Ill check the FCA. After I figure out where/what it is . Serious though thanx. That sound from an injector rusting shut. What are the long term serious damage possabilityies. Just a wasted injector or are we talkin blown up valve train pieces bouncin around against the cylinder walls and off the top of the piston?

billie

See post #7 here.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...m-t269803.html

FireDodge

Ridgetop,

I had a similar issue involving warranty, took mine to a dodge dealer for a water pump issue. I bought my truck from a private party but of course I still had all the warranty with the truck. Had an issue trying to deal with the dealer like you have experienced, they tried to say that it was not under warranty for whatever reason. Took my truck to a Western Branch Diesel don't know if you have heard of them. They work on tractor trailers and large diesels. But a Cummins is a Cummins and the honored my warranty and fixed my issue no questions asked. I got some weird looks from the shop guys taking my truck to them but once I talked to them they understood my situation. Hope this helps with your issue. The best thing about Cummins is we have one of the smallest engines they make so there are always ways to figure out issues.

Ridgetop

Thanx alot for all the quality feedback. Post #7 was very interesting and applicable as well I think. FD I have noy heard of WBD but a location and/or any contact info would be great. Or I suppose I could just do a search. By the way where are you located? Not real familiar with Mechanicsville.Anyway where I am at as of tonight is I pulled the fca and shook it. At first no sound so I blew it out with compressed air and manually moved the plunger. It began to make a very faint rattle so I figured what the heck and reinstalled it. I got results too. Not quite the results I was looking for but the truck fired up and idled. The idle was pretty rough but there was no smoke. As I pushed the throttle RPMs increased much more slowly than usual and the smoke started again. It did finally throw a ton of codes P0148,P0336,P0513,P088,P0341or14,P2609or2509. I wasnt prepared to note the codes so the last two I was unsure of and they all cleared before I could check them again. Im thinking relace the FCA as soon as I can find one but if anyone has any sugestions or ideas they would be appreciated as always. Phil

Ridgetop

Truck has improved a bit, idles better, starts, nothing replaced yet but after about 15 20 seconds idling tons of smoke. Much darker now. Does anyone know if the 06s were notorious for chaffed wire issues? Its hasnt thrown any codes since I cleared them. I wonder if disconnecting the battery terms to reset the ecu would be a bad idea. Also if anybody knows where I can purchase parts for the fuel system like fca without the cp pump wrapped around it. P