Smarty Jr Questions
#1
Smarty Jr Questions
I just purchased a Smarty Jr for my '03 5.9 CRD HO 6spd manual (quad, dually, 2wd) with an Air Dog lif-pump/filters on the advice of many, including my tech, who is running one on his own truck. Everything is "stock" on my truck, BTW.
I have looked for HP and Torque graphs for the 3 higherpower settings for the Smarty Jr, but have not found any. I've heard 0=Stock, 1=40hp, 2=70hp and 3=100hp.
I have not yet installed a gauge package (I am leaning toward the Edge CTS w/ EGT), so have been running the 1st stage (mentioned in some places as the +40hp setting) because the instructions say this is the fuel economy setting.
I have an 8000 pound RV which I occasionally tow, but understand that the Stage 2 and Stage 3 settings are not advised for towing unless the EGT is very carefully monitored to avoid engine damage (melted pistons?).
I got into a situation in the mountains (8-10% grades at 6500ft elevation and 100+ degree temps) recently (before Smarty Jr) even with the modest 8000 pound trailer that made me think a few extra HP/FT-Pounds would not be a bad thing, but it would be useful to know just HOW I should best utilize the settings the programmer offers.
I've read about 20 pages of posts on the Smarty Jr here, and to be honest, I don't feel like I understand it an better than before. My degree is in physics, so I don't think I am not capable of understanding-just there seem to be so many combinations and opinions.
Basically, I'd like a basic "best" setting for every day use NOT towing w/ my 6spd. The mildest setting above stock (no other options) seems to give slightly better drivability and throttle response, though I have not had it on long enough to check my MPG (My previous non-Smarty MPG was about 23 local and 28 highway, though I did one 600mi totally city tank in Phoenix I did 29mpg, which I still can't understand) if I drive like the old-fart I am. I'm not looking for HP unloaded (the stock is plenty), but more MPG would be nice even though I am blown away by the stock MPG.
The OTHER setting I'd like is a good setting for towing my 8000# 5th wheel trailer that would work at all elevations without cooking anything, yet would give me that extra margin of safety when caught with one of those REALLY steep hills at high altitude.
I drive very conservatively, usually cruise at 58mph or so (1600-1800 in 6th gear at light throttle) whether towing or not, and rarely even use more than 1/4th throttle while towing. If it takes more than that, I just slow and use a lower gear at 1800rpm or so, and so on. I don't "lug" the engine (since I use only low throttle settings), and don't mind going down 2 or 3 gears to lighten the load. I'll admit that that one 10% grade in the mountains spooked me when I WAS down several gears and leaning pretty hard on the throttle and not "feeling the power," which is why I ante'd up for the Smarty.
I realize when I get the gauge package I'll be better informed about what the engine is REALLY doing, but I'm looking for a couple of basic "safe" settings that will be useful and beneficial.
Thanks,
Bob
I have looked for HP and Torque graphs for the 3 higherpower settings for the Smarty Jr, but have not found any. I've heard 0=Stock, 1=40hp, 2=70hp and 3=100hp.
I have not yet installed a gauge package (I am leaning toward the Edge CTS w/ EGT), so have been running the 1st stage (mentioned in some places as the +40hp setting) because the instructions say this is the fuel economy setting.
I have an 8000 pound RV which I occasionally tow, but understand that the Stage 2 and Stage 3 settings are not advised for towing unless the EGT is very carefully monitored to avoid engine damage (melted pistons?).
I got into a situation in the mountains (8-10% grades at 6500ft elevation and 100+ degree temps) recently (before Smarty Jr) even with the modest 8000 pound trailer that made me think a few extra HP/FT-Pounds would not be a bad thing, but it would be useful to know just HOW I should best utilize the settings the programmer offers.
I've read about 20 pages of posts on the Smarty Jr here, and to be honest, I don't feel like I understand it an better than before. My degree is in physics, so I don't think I am not capable of understanding-just there seem to be so many combinations and opinions.
Basically, I'd like a basic "best" setting for every day use NOT towing w/ my 6spd. The mildest setting above stock (no other options) seems to give slightly better drivability and throttle response, though I have not had it on long enough to check my MPG (My previous non-Smarty MPG was about 23 local and 28 highway, though I did one 600mi totally city tank in Phoenix I did 29mpg, which I still can't understand) if I drive like the old-fart I am. I'm not looking for HP unloaded (the stock is plenty), but more MPG would be nice even though I am blown away by the stock MPG.
The OTHER setting I'd like is a good setting for towing my 8000# 5th wheel trailer that would work at all elevations without cooking anything, yet would give me that extra margin of safety when caught with one of those REALLY steep hills at high altitude.
I drive very conservatively, usually cruise at 58mph or so (1600-1800 in 6th gear at light throttle) whether towing or not, and rarely even use more than 1/4th throttle while towing. If it takes more than that, I just slow and use a lower gear at 1800rpm or so, and so on. I don't "lug" the engine (since I use only low throttle settings), and don't mind going down 2 or 3 gears to lighten the load. I'll admit that that one 10% grade in the mountains spooked me when I WAS down several gears and leaning pretty hard on the throttle and not "feeling the power," which is why I ante'd up for the Smarty.
I realize when I get the gauge package I'll be better informed about what the engine is REALLY doing, but I'm looking for a couple of basic "safe" settings that will be useful and beneficial.
Thanks,
Bob
#2
Afraid I can't help too much with the best setting for either scenario. I started in "economy" then went to "tow" and haven't messed with it for years. I just wanted to suggest from my little bit of experience to be careful when towing with no egt gauge. At low 1600-1800 rpms set on "tow" pulling our 10K fiver up a grade mine will build to 1200 deg. quickly. Down shifting and keeping the R's up helps but I still have to keep an eye on the egt's. I have heard several people say they have no problems, this has just been my experience. That said, I really like the Smarty Jr. and have no complaints. I figure more power equals more heat.
#3
Bob,
You ask a lot of good questions here.
First, I would start by creating a signature with all your truck specs & mods (ex: gear ratio, tire size, manual trans, etc.) This will help people know what you are working with...
Second, (with or without towing...) GET GAUGES! Even when I take my truck back to stock on the occasion I am getting some work done and such, I am shocked how high and how fast the EGTs get running emty. Smarty certainly helps keep these temps under control...
Empty/Daily Driving:
You can run SW2 on a daily basis with the default TM & TQ settings and be fine...this is what I run daily for the best throttle response and power with a stock tranny (I wouldn't go higher than SW2 with a stock tranny...). However, if you drive as conservative as you claim, you could run SW3 (again, with conservative driving) and really experince the best fuel mileage. I know that sounds funny to run the performance setting and get the best mileage, but that is the case with those that have tested the muliple tunes. Again, don't go hammering on it in SW3...
Towing:
I preface this with a suggestion to seek out two folks on here that know a hell of a lot more about this subject than myself (I seldom tow, but when I do I lean on these guys..."AH64ID" & "rockcrawler304") These are two really good guys and do a good bit of towing. "In my opinion", AH64ID is an authority on all things Smarty Jr.
My "novice" advise in this arena would be that you could tow in SW2, however, you would want to keep thee TM setting down (less timing). Again, I get a little lost on the TQ management settings myself. I simply run TQ2 because I know this gives me the best throttle response/power. Again, last time I towed, it was around 4K lbs. and nowhere near the elevations your talking about. Still, I have taller tires and 3.73 gears, so my EGTs would still climb pretty quick if I didn't have the RPMs up on any type of elevated grade (again, jealous of your manual trans)!
Good luck, but again, I would reach out to those guys I suggested for some really solid answers.
You ask a lot of good questions here.
First, I would start by creating a signature with all your truck specs & mods (ex: gear ratio, tire size, manual trans, etc.) This will help people know what you are working with...
Second, (with or without towing...) GET GAUGES! Even when I take my truck back to stock on the occasion I am getting some work done and such, I am shocked how high and how fast the EGTs get running emty. Smarty certainly helps keep these temps under control...
Empty/Daily Driving:
You can run SW2 on a daily basis with the default TM & TQ settings and be fine...this is what I run daily for the best throttle response and power with a stock tranny (I wouldn't go higher than SW2 with a stock tranny...). However, if you drive as conservative as you claim, you could run SW3 (again, with conservative driving) and really experince the best fuel mileage. I know that sounds funny to run the performance setting and get the best mileage, but that is the case with those that have tested the muliple tunes. Again, don't go hammering on it in SW3...
Towing:
I preface this with a suggestion to seek out two folks on here that know a hell of a lot more about this subject than myself (I seldom tow, but when I do I lean on these guys..."AH64ID" & "rockcrawler304") These are two really good guys and do a good bit of towing. "In my opinion", AH64ID is an authority on all things Smarty Jr.
My "novice" advise in this arena would be that you could tow in SW2, however, you would want to keep thee TM setting down (less timing). Again, I get a little lost on the TQ management settings myself. I simply run TQ2 because I know this gives me the best throttle response/power. Again, last time I towed, it was around 4K lbs. and nowhere near the elevations your talking about. Still, I have taller tires and 3.73 gears, so my EGTs would still climb pretty quick if I didn't have the RPMs up on any type of elevated grade (again, jealous of your manual trans)!
Good luck, but again, I would reach out to those guys I suggested for some really solid answers.
#4
Bob,
You ask a lot of good questions here.
First, I would start by creating a signature with all your truck specs & mods (ex: gear ratio, tire size, manual trans, etc.) This will help people know what you are working with...
Yes, I listed all of these in my post I believe, except tire size, which is the stock 235/80-17 or whatever. If I missed it, it's 3.73 rear, which is why I can get 28mpg highway mileage empty I guess. Truck is dead stock.
Second, (with or without towing...) GET GAUGES! Even when I take my truck back to stock on the occasion I am getting some work done and such, I am shocked how high and how fast the EGTs get running emty. Smarty certainly helps keep these temps under control...
Gauges are on plan when I get the next $500 for the Edge CTS Package
Empty/Daily Driving:
You can run SW2 on a daily basis with the default TM & TQ settings and be fine...this is what I run daily for the best throttle response and power with a stock tranny (I wouldn't go higher than SW2 with a stock tranny...). You mean the stock NV5600 can't handle much more than stock? I had it rebuilt when I had the engine re-manned-maybe I should have installed something stronger (gears/shafts) inside? However, if you drive as conservative as you claim, you could run SW3 (again, with conservative driving) and really experince the best fuel mileage. I know that sounds funny to run the performance setting and get the best mileage, but that is the case with those that have tested the muliple tunes. Again, don't go hammering on it in SW3...If I understand, SW 2 is the mildest program (Stock Setting is SW1?)
Towing:
I preface this with a suggestion to seek out two folks on here that know a hell of a lot more about this subject than myself (I seldom tow, but when I do I lean on these guys..."AH64ID" & "rockcrawler304") These are two really good guys and do a good bit of towing. "In my opinion", AH64ID is an authority on all things Smarty Jr.
My "novice" advise in this arena would be that you could tow in SW2, however (that's the +40hp setting?), you would want to keep thee TM setting down (less timing). Again, I get a little lost on the TQ management settings myself. I simply run TQ2 because I know this gives me the best throttle response/power. Again, last time I towed, it was around 4K lbs. and nowhere near the elevations your talking about. Still, I have taller tires and 3.73 gears, so my EGTs would still climb pretty quick if I didn't have the RPMs up on any type of elevated grade (again, jealous of your manual trans)!
Good luck, but again, I would reach out to those guys I suggested for some really solid answers.Thanks, I'll see if I can PM them I guess? I'm sure there's a way to find the way to PM someone w/o doing it from a post one of them did?
You ask a lot of good questions here.
First, I would start by creating a signature with all your truck specs & mods (ex: gear ratio, tire size, manual trans, etc.) This will help people know what you are working with...
Yes, I listed all of these in my post I believe, except tire size, which is the stock 235/80-17 or whatever. If I missed it, it's 3.73 rear, which is why I can get 28mpg highway mileage empty I guess. Truck is dead stock.
Second, (with or without towing...) GET GAUGES! Even when I take my truck back to stock on the occasion I am getting some work done and such, I am shocked how high and how fast the EGTs get running emty. Smarty certainly helps keep these temps under control...
Gauges are on plan when I get the next $500 for the Edge CTS Package
Empty/Daily Driving:
You can run SW2 on a daily basis with the default TM & TQ settings and be fine...this is what I run daily for the best throttle response and power with a stock tranny (I wouldn't go higher than SW2 with a stock tranny...). You mean the stock NV5600 can't handle much more than stock? I had it rebuilt when I had the engine re-manned-maybe I should have installed something stronger (gears/shafts) inside? However, if you drive as conservative as you claim, you could run SW3 (again, with conservative driving) and really experince the best fuel mileage. I know that sounds funny to run the performance setting and get the best mileage, but that is the case with those that have tested the muliple tunes. Again, don't go hammering on it in SW3...If I understand, SW 2 is the mildest program (Stock Setting is SW1?)
Towing:
I preface this with a suggestion to seek out two folks on here that know a hell of a lot more about this subject than myself (I seldom tow, but when I do I lean on these guys..."AH64ID" & "rockcrawler304") These are two really good guys and do a good bit of towing. "In my opinion", AH64ID is an authority on all things Smarty Jr.
My "novice" advise in this arena would be that you could tow in SW2, however (that's the +40hp setting?), you would want to keep thee TM setting down (less timing). Again, I get a little lost on the TQ management settings myself. I simply run TQ2 because I know this gives me the best throttle response/power. Again, last time I towed, it was around 4K lbs. and nowhere near the elevations your talking about. Still, I have taller tires and 3.73 gears, so my EGTs would still climb pretty quick if I didn't have the RPMs up on any type of elevated grade (again, jealous of your manual trans)!
Good luck, but again, I would reach out to those guys I suggested for some really solid answers.Thanks, I'll see if I can PM them I guess? I'm sure there's a way to find the way to PM someone w/o doing it from a post one of them did?
Bob
#5
Before towing with the Smarty Jr I would get a set of gauges.
Your biggest limitation when towing is going to be the stock turbo. You will want to get an adjustable boost elbow installed and set it up to make about 30-32 psi of boost.
I would start on SW1 defaults. This tune makes most of it's power in the 1600-2400 rpm range, and is great for towing.
With a manual your trans can handle SW2, but it will be close with the stock clutch and stock turbo when towing heavy.
SW1 = 40hp fuel economy
SW2 = 70hp towing
SW3 = 100hp performance.
I would also increase your rpms a little. I have found better mileage and the motor is happier (EGT, boost, coolant, oil temp) at 2000-2400 rpms than 1600-1800 rpms. If towing at 55 I would be in 5th, and not use 6th until 67 mph, unless VERY flat or downhill. With the added timing of the Jr you will get more heat into the coolant/oil so the extra rpms are nice to keep the coolant/oil flow up.
In regards to non towing mileage I would try SW3 defaults, PoD 75 or 80, if you don't have a lead foot.
As far as 28 mpg, I am guessing that's off the overhead and not calculated?
Your biggest limitation when towing is going to be the stock turbo. You will want to get an adjustable boost elbow installed and set it up to make about 30-32 psi of boost.
I would start on SW1 defaults. This tune makes most of it's power in the 1600-2400 rpm range, and is great for towing.
With a manual your trans can handle SW2, but it will be close with the stock clutch and stock turbo when towing heavy.
SW1 = 40hp fuel economy
SW2 = 70hp towing
SW3 = 100hp performance.
I would also increase your rpms a little. I have found better mileage and the motor is happier (EGT, boost, coolant, oil temp) at 2000-2400 rpms than 1600-1800 rpms. If towing at 55 I would be in 5th, and not use 6th until 67 mph, unless VERY flat or downhill. With the added timing of the Jr you will get more heat into the coolant/oil so the extra rpms are nice to keep the coolant/oil flow up.
In regards to non towing mileage I would try SW3 defaults, PoD 75 or 80, if you don't have a lead foot.
As far as 28 mpg, I am guessing that's off the overhead and not calculated?
#6
Before towing with the Smarty Jr I would get a set of gauges.
Thanks for chiming in-I appreciate it. The Smarty Jr. paperwork is a bit "vague."Yes, as I mentioned, the gauges are on my list ASAP, as much for recording the parameters to see what's screwing up if I have another loss-of-power episode as described below, as for monitoring EGT.
Your biggest limitation when towing is going to be the stock turbo. You will want to get an adjustable boost elbow installed and set it up to make about 30-32 psi of boost.
So more boost is safer to tow with than less boost? Or are you saying I need more boost if I want MORE than the 40/70/100hp gains Smarty is capable of, or are you saying Smarty can't even deliver 40/70/100hp WITHOUT 30-32 pounds of boost? Just trying to learn why I need/want more than stock boost.
I'll study what an "adjustable boost elbow" does as I am not familiar w/ the term. I've heard that the stock turbo really isn't happy at those levels of boost-does the "elbow" fix that limitation? Someone suggested a used turbo off a 6.7 I think, for that reason.
I would start on SW1 defaults. This tune makes most of it's power in the 1600-2400 rpm range, and is great for towing.
OK, SW1 is the lowest power gain setting (+40hp) above the "Stock" setting, which is SW0? I notice throttle response is better, and I feel there is a bit more power, though I probably don't "need" more power the way I drive, and as light as I tow.
With a manual your trans can handle SW2, but it will be close with the stock clutch and stock turbo when towing heavy.
SW2 is 70hp, so the stock clutch won't happily handle more than that. Of course, if I only use 1/4th throttle 99% of the time (as I do), I probably wouldn't stress the clutch. Any added power is strictly for reserve use if ever needed on another "evil hill."
SW1 = 40hp fuel economy
SW2 = 70hp towing
SW3 = 100hp performance.
I would also increase your rpms a little. I have found better mileage and the motor is happier (EGT, boost, coolant, oil temp) at 2000-2400 rpms than 1600-1800 rpms. If towing at 55 I would be in 5th, and not use 6th until 67 mph, unless VERY flat or downhill. With the added timing of the Jr you will get more heat into the coolant/oil so the extra rpms are nice to keep the coolant/oil flow up.
That's exactly what I am now doing, actually.
If very mild throttle (1/4th or less) won't maintain speed, I slow to about 55 and use 5th gear, and so forth down the gears as needed.
I have only ONCE used more than about 1/4th throttle towing in any gear except for one 8-10% grade in Utah when I couldn't hold any gear but first w/ the 8000# trailer, and it took almost full throttle and 2900rpm to crest the hill. VERY disturbing in the extreme.
Something felt VERY wrong on that hill. The engine felt perfectly smooth, but there was simply NO power on tap. Absolutely GUTLESS.
After that hill, I checked for turbo leaks, but found none. The rest of the vacation the truck felt pretty normal, even up at 10,000ft elev and 6-7% grades.
Once home, we have gone through everything (using a SnapOn scanner) and can find nothing wrong. Command and rail pressures are the same (FCA and CP3 evidently OK), and in the lower gears at WOT both go up to 21,500psi (a bit less in 5th and 6th at legal road speed). The tech suggested a Smarty Jr as he has one and likes the MPG gains and better throttle response, plus he thought in the first setting towing, he felt it would give a bit extra power with cooler EGTs than stock.
In regards to non towing mileage I would try SW3 defaults, PoD 75 or 80, if you don't have a lead foot.
I surely don't have a lead foot, and regularly get 23 around town and 28 highway the way I drive (leisurely would be a good description). Are you saying the 70hp setting will improve upon the 40hp setting for MPG gains?
Quite honestly, I drive like having the proverbial egg under my throttle foot, even when towing. I spent 30+ years as an airline pilot and respecting the equipment was always Job 1. The Smarty was mainly added for drivability, lower EGT for engine longevity, and MAYBE the next 8-10% grade that scares the crap out of me!
As far as 28 mpg, I am guessing that's off the overhead and not calculated?
No, all MPG figures were computed on miles and gallons added over my 23,000mi of ownership. The 28mpg is on trips when I have run empty at 60mph constant, and don't shut the engine down for a 16 hour day. The one tank that blew me away was 29.6 in Phoenix city driving over about 600mi and 3-4 days driving (and trust me, I filled the tank to the neck, waiting until all the foam is down).
I have been ASTOUNDED by the fuel economy of this truck. I don't tell most folks what I get 'cuz they just say I am lying, which I am not.
On the overhead at 60mph on level ground I can easily see 30mpg, though I know that's bogus, though towing, the overhead is dead on compared to actual calculated.
I get 14-15 pulling the 12ft5" high 25ft 8000# 5th wheel both overhead and pencil and paper. When I had a 4000# Lance truck camper towing my Jeep I got 16mpg average over 7000mi whether over the Rockies, or on the flats.
I also have a small 3500# travel trailer, and I get a tad over 20mpg towing it.
Did I say I LOVE this truck!
Thanks for chiming in-I appreciate it. The Smarty Jr. paperwork is a bit "vague."Yes, as I mentioned, the gauges are on my list ASAP, as much for recording the parameters to see what's screwing up if I have another loss-of-power episode as described below, as for monitoring EGT.
Your biggest limitation when towing is going to be the stock turbo. You will want to get an adjustable boost elbow installed and set it up to make about 30-32 psi of boost.
So more boost is safer to tow with than less boost? Or are you saying I need more boost if I want MORE than the 40/70/100hp gains Smarty is capable of, or are you saying Smarty can't even deliver 40/70/100hp WITHOUT 30-32 pounds of boost? Just trying to learn why I need/want more than stock boost.
I'll study what an "adjustable boost elbow" does as I am not familiar w/ the term. I've heard that the stock turbo really isn't happy at those levels of boost-does the "elbow" fix that limitation? Someone suggested a used turbo off a 6.7 I think, for that reason.
I would start on SW1 defaults. This tune makes most of it's power in the 1600-2400 rpm range, and is great for towing.
OK, SW1 is the lowest power gain setting (+40hp) above the "Stock" setting, which is SW0? I notice throttle response is better, and I feel there is a bit more power, though I probably don't "need" more power the way I drive, and as light as I tow.
With a manual your trans can handle SW2, but it will be close with the stock clutch and stock turbo when towing heavy.
SW2 is 70hp, so the stock clutch won't happily handle more than that. Of course, if I only use 1/4th throttle 99% of the time (as I do), I probably wouldn't stress the clutch. Any added power is strictly for reserve use if ever needed on another "evil hill."
SW1 = 40hp fuel economy
SW2 = 70hp towing
SW3 = 100hp performance.
I would also increase your rpms a little. I have found better mileage and the motor is happier (EGT, boost, coolant, oil temp) at 2000-2400 rpms than 1600-1800 rpms. If towing at 55 I would be in 5th, and not use 6th until 67 mph, unless VERY flat or downhill. With the added timing of the Jr you will get more heat into the coolant/oil so the extra rpms are nice to keep the coolant/oil flow up.
That's exactly what I am now doing, actually.
If very mild throttle (1/4th or less) won't maintain speed, I slow to about 55 and use 5th gear, and so forth down the gears as needed.
I have only ONCE used more than about 1/4th throttle towing in any gear except for one 8-10% grade in Utah when I couldn't hold any gear but first w/ the 8000# trailer, and it took almost full throttle and 2900rpm to crest the hill. VERY disturbing in the extreme.
Something felt VERY wrong on that hill. The engine felt perfectly smooth, but there was simply NO power on tap. Absolutely GUTLESS.
After that hill, I checked for turbo leaks, but found none. The rest of the vacation the truck felt pretty normal, even up at 10,000ft elev and 6-7% grades.
Once home, we have gone through everything (using a SnapOn scanner) and can find nothing wrong. Command and rail pressures are the same (FCA and CP3 evidently OK), and in the lower gears at WOT both go up to 21,500psi (a bit less in 5th and 6th at legal road speed). The tech suggested a Smarty Jr as he has one and likes the MPG gains and better throttle response, plus he thought in the first setting towing, he felt it would give a bit extra power with cooler EGTs than stock.
In regards to non towing mileage I would try SW3 defaults, PoD 75 or 80, if you don't have a lead foot.
I surely don't have a lead foot, and regularly get 23 around town and 28 highway the way I drive (leisurely would be a good description). Are you saying the 70hp setting will improve upon the 40hp setting for MPG gains?
Quite honestly, I drive like having the proverbial egg under my throttle foot, even when towing. I spent 30+ years as an airline pilot and respecting the equipment was always Job 1. The Smarty was mainly added for drivability, lower EGT for engine longevity, and MAYBE the next 8-10% grade that scares the crap out of me!
As far as 28 mpg, I am guessing that's off the overhead and not calculated?
No, all MPG figures were computed on miles and gallons added over my 23,000mi of ownership. The 28mpg is on trips when I have run empty at 60mph constant, and don't shut the engine down for a 16 hour day. The one tank that blew me away was 29.6 in Phoenix city driving over about 600mi and 3-4 days driving (and trust me, I filled the tank to the neck, waiting until all the foam is down).
I have been ASTOUNDED by the fuel economy of this truck. I don't tell most folks what I get 'cuz they just say I am lying, which I am not.
On the overhead at 60mph on level ground I can easily see 30mpg, though I know that's bogus, though towing, the overhead is dead on compared to actual calculated.
I get 14-15 pulling the 12ft5" high 25ft 8000# 5th wheel both overhead and pencil and paper. When I had a 4000# Lance truck camper towing my Jeep I got 16mpg average over 7000mi whether over the Rockies, or on the flats.
I also have a small 3500# travel trailer, and I get a tad over 20mpg towing it.
Did I say I LOVE this truck!
#7
Advocate of getting the ban button used on him...
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,081
Likes: 8
From: Live Oak Texas
Well AH pretty much nailed everything! Not really anything for me to add except I have to ask if you checked the version of your Smarty? There is a new version that changes the timing numbers and it has a much improved throttle curve. More linear than before.
Check your Smarty by plugging into the truck and the software version is quickly displayed. Newest is 5.14B
If yours is not up to date go here http://madselectronics.com/DownloadSJ6.html to download it to your Smarty. The instructions are there also and it can be a little confusing the first time!!
Check your Smarty by plugging into the truck and the software version is quickly displayed. Newest is 5.14B
If yours is not up to date go here http://madselectronics.com/DownloadSJ6.html to download it to your Smarty. The instructions are there also and it can be a little confusing the first time!!
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#8
Well AH pretty much nailed everything! Not really anything for me to add except I have to ask if you checked the version of your Smarty? There is a new version that changes the timing numbers and it has a much improved throttle curve. More linear than before.
Check your Smarty by plugging into the truck and the software version is quickly displayed. Newest is 5.14B
If yours is not up to date go here http://madselectronics.com/DownloadSJ6.html to download it to your Smarty. The instructions are there also and it can be a little confusing the first time!!
Check your Smarty by plugging into the truck and the software version is quickly displayed. Newest is 5.14B
If yours is not up to date go here http://madselectronics.com/DownloadSJ6.html to download it to your Smarty. The instructions are there also and it can be a little confusing the first time!!
If I don't have the latest version on my brand new Smarty Jr, do I have to restore the stock settings to my truck, then download the new software, then re-load my truck w/ the newer stuff in that order?
Also, is the 70hp towing setting going to give poorer MPG than the 40hp economy setting assuming one drives his truck precisely the same way on both settings (not "using" the available horsepower)?
In other words, is there an advantage to using the 40hp setting, either in MPG or anything else if one drives conservatively as I do. Are the EGTs cooler at the same engine output level, or is the torque improved lower in the RPM band w/ the +40 setting vs with the +70 (that may favor higher rpm)?
That's where I wish they published some HP/Torque graphs (though of course those would be at WOT, so it's not like they are useful in day-to-day operation.
I have not tried anything but the +40hp w/ default settings yet, since I assume (you know what that means) that it's the safest setting to use until I get my gauges, though I would hope that empty, never exceeding 1/4th throttle, I couldn't hurt anything anyway.
Here in TX where I live there are NO hills, so only a fraction of the available horses are needed anyway unless towing.
#9
Advocate of getting the ban button used on him...
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,081
Likes: 8
From: Live Oak Texas
Thanks, I'll get it out tomorrow and check the version.
If I don't have the latest version on my brand new Smarty Jr, do I have to restore the stock settings to my truck, then download the new software, then re-load my truck w/ the newer stuff in that order?
Also, is the 70hp towing setting going to give poorer MPG than the 40hp economy setting assuming one drives his truck precisely the same way on both settings (not "using" the available horsepower)?
In other words, is there an advantage to using the 40hp setting, either in MPG or anything else if one drives conservatively as I do. Are the EGTs cooler at the same engine output level, or is the torque improved lower in the RPM band w/ the +40 setting vs with the +70 (that may favor higher rpm)?
That's where I wish they published some HP/Torque graphs (though of course those would be at WOT, so it's not like they are useful in day-to-day operation.
I have not tried anything but the +40hp w/ default settings yet, since I assume (you know what that means) that it's the safest setting to use until I get my gauges, though I would hope that empty, never exceeding 1/4th throttle, I couldn't hurt anything anyway.
Here in TX where I live there are NO hills, so only a fraction of the available horses are needed anyway unless towing.
If I don't have the latest version on my brand new Smarty Jr, do I have to restore the stock settings to my truck, then download the new software, then re-load my truck w/ the newer stuff in that order?
Also, is the 70hp towing setting going to give poorer MPG than the 40hp economy setting assuming one drives his truck precisely the same way on both settings (not "using" the available horsepower)?
In other words, is there an advantage to using the 40hp setting, either in MPG or anything else if one drives conservatively as I do. Are the EGTs cooler at the same engine output level, or is the torque improved lower in the RPM band w/ the +40 setting vs with the +70 (that may favor higher rpm)?
That's where I wish they published some HP/Torque graphs (though of course those would be at WOT, so it's not like they are useful in day-to-day operation.
I have not tried anything but the +40hp w/ default settings yet, since I assume (you know what that means) that it's the safest setting to use until I get my gauges, though I would hope that empty, never exceeding 1/4th throttle, I couldn't hurt anything anyway.
Here in TX where I live there are NO hills, so only a fraction of the available horses are needed anyway unless towing.
The SW2 (70 HP) will actually give better mileage. I have tried all 3 levels and multiple settings and I get the best mileage on the 100HP SW3 setting driving empty. I tow on SW2 TM2 default TQ. Also right now daily driving on this setting.
If you drive conservatively you can run SW3. But like said above GAUGES are a must to monitor things.
Where in Texas are you? I'm in El Paso and it is very flat too!
#10
Timing slightly increases with each setting, so mileage will also slightly increase.
If you never use cruise control you can limit your fueling (for the most part), but if you ever use cruise control then you don't know how hard the truck is fueling, or if you are using the available power. The fueling of the truck is different at each TPS level, so really you don't know if your using it or not.
If you never use cruise control you can limit your fueling (for the most part), but if you ever use cruise control then you don't know how hard the truck is fueling, or if you are using the available power. The fueling of the truck is different at each TPS level, so really you don't know if your using it or not.
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