2003-- 3500 truck . Within the last year its broken the surpentine belt twice along with the belt tensioner . Usually the bolt for the idler pulley ( pulley that is located right underneath the top radiator hose ) is snapping off as well . I've spun all pulleys and they appear to be fine . Truck has A/C if that helps to determine problem . Tired of replacing belts , want to know if anyone else has experienced this, Thanks

 

I had to change the belt on my 2005 model at 42K, the belt started squealing and i did notice a bit of belt fraing,
I replaced the belt with a gates gaterback belt.

my truck belt makes a Squeal noise each time i cut off the motor, at first i was concern about this, but others say this is normal as the motor has so much compression that it stops before the other items running on the belt can stop.

One guy said "it just makes a noise when you shutdown a big power plant".

 

If you got an alternator with a clutched pulley, no more belt chirp.

 

Griz

What belts are you using? Please don't tell me Auto Zone.

When it's rinning, does the belt appear to be running true?

Just because the idler spins free, doesn't mean the bearing is good. It could be momentairly siezing. The clue is the broken bolt. I'd change the idler and tensioner pully as the bearings are very small. Check the alternator too. If it feels chunky while spinning, then that could be the culprit. See if it has any up and down, side to side or in and out play. The same applies to all the bearings. Water pump, AC compressor, the works.

Something is locking up and broke that bolt off. Those suckers are hard to break. The power and the belt grabbing is probably putting too much tension on the bolt, which is the smallest and weakest point in the loop.

 

Tensioner pulley, if it's plastic change the tensioner (NAPA). Idler pulley, bearing can be changed out, pretty cheap in fact.

 

This is the part that grabs my attention. Bolts usually snap because of excessive lateral tension. Grade 8 bolts are more susceptable to this - they are extremly strong in tension, but can be relativly brittle in lateral stress.

I would look very closely at this are. Try to figure what is wrong there, and that will probably solve your belt problem.

 

I said that already in a different form. It could be the alternator locking up too. AC compressor, PS Pump, any number. Something is making that belt into a rubber band

 

Thanks everyone for the replies...the truck is sitting in at my brother's place so as soon as I can inspect all the idlers and pulleys I'll let you know if I find anything. Is this a common problem?

Griz02

 

Let's just say it happens occasionally. I'm surprised you didn't hear it. Oh that's right, its a 24 Valve. Can't hear a rod knock on one of those. LOL

 

Huh? What did you say I hope to figure out the problem with the belt this weekend. Thanks again everyone for their inputs.

Griz02

 

Havent changed my belt or pump but have a spare of each. I got it at Auto Zone. It was the top of their line and is two mm shorter than the original. What is the problem with their belts. Should I order a Gates from Geno's and pitch the new one from Auto Zone?

 

Don't make me use 4 letter words! ***** 5 letters are hard for you anyway.*****

JUNK!

Already it's too short. Get a Gates or a Dayco (Daygo). Besides, I wouldn't give that company used toilet paper. The caliper of the clientel is two levels of a garden slug.

I bought a couple of things from them, had to take it back 2 or three times because it was not the correct part. I just needed a headlight switch for a car I was selling. It looked right, but being in a rush, I didn't matche them up good enough. You had to be there. Bought a fan belt at the same time which was a tight fit, but went on. It lasted 6 weeks

Another time I went there and asked if they had any brass pipe fittings. "What kind of car is it for"

Trust me. When you restore cars, you learn real fast that price is not a solution. And full size Mopar is the hardest

 

Ok, since I have the time, guess I will go to Geno's.