Prior to the trip, I "throughally" changed the trans fluid, and all other fluids, installed gauges for the travel from WI to FL with a 40' gooseneck loaded with an F150 4wd & tons of house stuff. I wanted to weigh the entire set up but ended up not being able to. I did weigh the gooseneck which ended up being 3200 lbs - thankful I had installed air bags, those are worth every dollar! The trailer is 5500 lbs (enclosed aluminum frame), truck is 4700 lbs, and all of the other stuff was easily the weight of the truck. I am guessing the trailer weighed 13K to 15K

I now understand why several members say the first mod to any diesel is gauges - you can definitely taylor the driving style to the results on the pyro, boost, and trans temp.

I would like to ask the forum members about my concern towards the trans temperature. At cruising speed, 65 mph to 72 mph, the trans temp will follow the outside temperature; 68F outside will result in 155F trans temp, when it gets to 88F outside, the trans temp is 175F. My gauge is located in the hot line going to the cooler.
When I get onto the highway, the torque convertor must be really spinning since my trans temps slowly climb to 220F, going over the mountain pass they rose to 275F. As soon as the torque convertor locks in final drive, the temp will come down to the steady state condition. The temperature when climbing the mt or on the express way was only for a short time, less than 5 min.
Is this short duration trans temp ok? I do not think there is anything wrong with the truck or tranny, I think it is simply a function of the torque convertor spinning.
I had read about some people putting torque convertor lock up switches in, could this help if I use a switch and manually shift the tranny from 1,2,D?
Climbing that mt pass, the truck had slowed down to 40mph, Pyro was at 1250F - I was getting pretty nervous. My pyro is located in the "Y" of the exhaust manifold, that is where ISSPRO suggested to put it. I am assuming in this location I can run safely at 1200F.

Thanks for any input as well as if my idea of a trans lock up switch would be helpful for me in keeping the trans temps down when climbing the mountain / getting onto the highway.

SAS

 

As Goerends told me he doesn't care what the hot line temp is. He wants to know the temp of the fluid in the pan. That's what is going back into the trans.
Look into getting a trans lockup controller. Suncoast, Goerends, ATS & TS all make them. I can't live without mine.

 

So if I have a lock up switch, I can reduce my torque convertor slippage when towing a heavy load? I am assuming I can lock up the convertor and manually shift the tranny. Does this hurt the trans or put significant load on the bands? What is the negative with locking up the convertor and manually shifting through the gears?

Thanks
SAS

 

Not sure about the lockup controllers...no experience with them.

However, you would have to unlock TC, shift, then relock the TC.

Your hotside (275 for 5 min) trans temps are OK, for the duration you mention.

My trans in 110F AZ summers will hit 200-210 in the city and cool to ~190 after 10 miles or so on the freeway.

Tony

 

I agree with "scottsjeeprolet", use an aftermarket TC controller for lock-up. If you use a manual lock-up switch and FORGET to unlock the TC when coming to a stop, you'll bog the engine down or eventually smoke the TC.

 

Would not worry. Normal temps.

 

Next time put it in OD lockout in 3rd, and the TC will lock. I never see these temps in my hot line. That is what the 4.10 gears take care of. If you had 3.42 gears it would have been ugly pulling that kind of load with an auto. Next time wait until you get to 55 mph then take it out of OD lockout. Your temps should stay in check.

 

Keeping the TC locked is going to dramatically drop your temps. The bulk of th eheat generated in an an auto trans is in the TC while in fluid coupling. The more you can lock it the better off you are.

You could lockup the TC and manually shift it, but, that would mean you would be replacing the input shaft. With a billet input I shift locked to locked frequently with no issues. Thats the big negative.

As was suggested, use OD off when needed to get a better locking strategy. If you are going to use a lockup controller then be prepare dot build the VB to the controller, they are all a little different.

 

As Stated above, I wouldn't pursue a T/C lock up without at least a billet input shaft. Shifting gears while still locked is very hard shift on the internals.

 

If my tranny hit 275*, I would freak the F out! SLOW DOWN and shift gears.

This pic of my gauges is climbing up Eisenhower pass I-70 west of Denver pulling 9500lbs , 2nd gear, 35mph... The other thought is NOT to add any power. I can't control my EGT's unless it is set on stock, which is where I always keep it.

 

Most of the aftermarket lock up controllers don't shift locked. Mine momentarily unlocks when shifting from 3rd - 4th.