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Removing Front Driveshaft

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Old 11-15-2008 | 11:08 AM
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D45
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Removing Front Driveshaft

How hard/easy is it to pull the front driveshaft?

I have a grinding noise that I would like to rule out as coming from the front driveshaft

Any special tools or items needed? Are the bolts normal hex head or are they torx?

Also, will it be ok to drive the truck without the front shaft installed and not have ANY fluid leak out from the tcase?

Thanks for any and all info!
Old 11-15-2008 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by D45
How hard/easy is it to pull the front driveshaft?

I have a grinding noise that I would like to rule out as coming from the front driveshaft

Any special tools or items needed? Are the bolts normal hex head or are they torx?

Also, will it be ok to drive the truck without the front shaft installed and not have ANY fluid leak out from the tcase?

Thanks for any and all info!
Its really easy, but you will need some torx bits for the front bolts at the axle, and there are regular bolts on the t-case side, and you wount have any problems driving with out it.
Old 11-15-2008 | 02:30 PM
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Any idea on what size the torx head will be?
Old 11-15-2008 | 04:43 PM
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t-40 IIRC, needs to have some length to it, think mine is 4"
Old 11-15-2008 | 04:59 PM
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As 05 CTD2500 said, make sure you have a good solid long t40 torx bit that fits in there straight. You will need to apply a lot of pressure to get them loose. They use thread locker on the threads.
Old 11-15-2008 | 05:07 PM
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Will a 3/8" drive Torx bit with a long extension bar and a ractchet work....or an air ratchet?
Old 11-15-2008 | 06:11 PM
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no it needs to be long because the head causes it to be at to much of an angle you need a long bit, you will see what I mean if you crawl under the truck with it.
Old 11-15-2008 | 06:38 PM
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If they have threadlocker on them, heat the bolts up a bit. That will soften up the t-locker and they will come out a lot easier.
Old 11-15-2008 | 09:24 PM
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From what I have read, the front bolts have red LocTite on them......and the rear bolts are rather easy to remove.

I am going to hopefully get the driveshaft removed tomorrow and see if it solves the grinding noise....
Old 11-15-2008 | 09:28 PM
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if you want to get ride of the grinding, the dynatrac freespin kit will be a good start...
Old 11-15-2008 | 11:20 PM
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You CAN use an ordinary torque socket as long as you turn the drive shaft to get a good angle on each bolt. I used a 3/8" socket on mine, just jack up the front drivers wheel so the driveshaft will turn so you get a good angle and you'll be okay.

For the other end its easier if you take the skid plate off first.
Old 11-15-2008 | 11:59 PM
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Towed 3400 miles at a GCVW of over 19,000 lbs with the front drive shaft off and had no problems. It just made my truck a tall 4X2 for that trip. I was trying to isolate a vibration that turned out to be the same u-joint that had been replaced 3200 miles prior to the trip.
Old 11-16-2008 | 12:32 AM
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I was thinking of pulling mine for trips and just keep it in the bed in case I get stuck. lol.
Old 11-16-2008 | 09:42 AM
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Thanks for the info.......I am going to try to remove the shaft this afternoon.

Would it be a good idea to replace the stock u-joints with aftermarket parts, since the truck has 67,000 miles on it and the driveshaft will be off anyways?
Old 11-16-2008 | 10:37 AM
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I wouldn't bother.
Check them when you get it out to see how they are.
It's not a big job removing the front driveshaft, just 8 bolts.


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