Rear Main Seal Leak???
#16
Rick, thanks, that should help me out alot! One question, how deep should the seal be pushed in? I've read that it should be pushed in 3/8" Did you measure it to make sure you were in deep enough?
So I checked around the CP3 yesterday when i got home. Everything in the engine bay is dry, no oil or fuel leaking. It has to be the rear main seal.
My plan is to get this done this weekend, hope it goes as easy as they have made it sound. I'll be doing this without a lift so I already know it's not going to be a walk in the park.
Does anyone know what the torque ratings are to put everything back together? Such as the flexplate bolts, torque converter bolts and the transmission bolts.
Another question, should I drain the transmission fluid before I remove it. Remember, I a newbie at this.
So I checked around the CP3 yesterday when i got home. Everything in the engine bay is dry, no oil or fuel leaking. It has to be the rear main seal.
My plan is to get this done this weekend, hope it goes as easy as they have made it sound. I'll be doing this without a lift so I already know it's not going to be a walk in the park.
Does anyone know what the torque ratings are to put everything back together? Such as the flexplate bolts, torque converter bolts and the transmission bolts.
Another question, should I drain the transmission fluid before I remove it. Remember, I a newbie at this.
#17
Update, dropped the transmission over the weekend. It's not super hard but it is not no walk in the park. Having long extensions to get to the top bolt was key and some swivel sockets helped. Doing it on the ground was also not the easiest. Not sure I'd do it again.
In any case, the rear main seal had walked it self out and was flush with the end of the crankshaft. Put new one in and set to the correct depth using the supplied tool from Cummins. All should be well now.
After everything was pit back together and doing a test drive, I got a check engine light. Pulled back in to the garage and checked the codes, got P1749 & P1750. I was able to clear the P1750 but not the P1749. I wiggled and checked to make sure that the harness connectors were in place and then I was able to clear the P1749 code. Wonder if there was a bad contact or fluid got in them when removing the tranny. Or pulling on the cables as my friend did may have pulled the wire loose inside. I hate it when they do that. I'll keep an eye on it.
In any case, the rear main seal had walked it self out and was flush with the end of the crankshaft. Put new one in and set to the correct depth using the supplied tool from Cummins. All should be well now.
After everything was pit back together and doing a test drive, I got a check engine light. Pulled back in to the garage and checked the codes, got P1749 & P1750. I was able to clear the P1750 but not the P1749. I wiggled and checked to make sure that the harness connectors were in place and then I was able to clear the P1749 code. Wonder if there was a bad contact or fluid got in them when removing the tranny. Or pulling on the cables as my friend did may have pulled the wire loose inside. I hate it when they do that. I'll keep an eye on it.
#19
Administrator / Free Time Specialist
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,707
Likes: 14
From: Birmingham, Alabama
Thanks Jhenson!
#20
Well, I tried to replace the cam shaft seal. We removed all the bolts holding the plate on to the motor and the thing would not come off. We looked to see if anything else was holding it in and, nothing. We gave up, we were convinced it was the rear main seal. I may end up kicking myself in the butt for it later.
Rick, we did just that. We used the plate that went in front of the flywheel to push the seal in with the tool. Kind of like what you did with the bolts and washers. Last bit we did by hitting it with a hammer. Looked like it went in nice and even and to the correct depth. Time will tell if it was done correctly. So far so good!
Thanks guys for all your input!
Rick, we did just that. We used the plate that went in front of the flywheel to push the seal in with the tool. Kind of like what you did with the bolts and washers. Last bit we did by hitting it with a hammer. Looked like it went in nice and even and to the correct depth. Time will tell if it was done correctly. So far so good!
Thanks guys for all your input!
#21
"How in the heck do I change the phrase in between my user name and avatar?"
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
From: Waco, Texas
You have to remove the 3 bolts holding the starter in place for the plate to actually come off after all the other bolts are removed.
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