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Rear Greaseable U-joints

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Old 03-21-2009, 11:34 PM
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Rear Greaseable U-joints

For anyone who would like to know, here is the spicer part # for the rear drive shaft greaseable u-joints. If you measure your caps (width) and they are 1 3/16 (1.188") the # is 5-160x. You can get them online from the u-jointstore. Maybe this can be helpful to somebody.
Old 03-22-2009, 07:58 AM
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I just had them installed, unfortunately I wasn't givent he parts numbers or I would have started this thread, buddy of mine is getting them installed Monday. best 180 bux spent in a while, parts and labor !
Old 03-22-2009, 08:50 AM
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Here is the link for the u-joint store.

http://www.theujointstore.com/
Old 03-22-2009, 11:50 AM
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Yeah, just put mine on yesterday. Had to use my torch to get them out, made it alot easier. I have a two piece drive shaft, so i had alittle problem puttin in the middle one, but I got it
Old 03-22-2009, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mikmaze
I just had them installed, unfortunately I wasn't givent he parts numbers or I would have started this thread, buddy of mine is getting them installed Monday. best 180 bux spent in a while, parts and labor !
I just bought a complete new factory driveshaft with the joints and the spline, ready to bolt in, for $181. Probably take all of 10 minutes to install it.

Seems like a better choice than replacing the u-joints.
Old 03-22-2009, 01:10 PM
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Raspy,

Where did you buy the complete assembly for that amount?
Old 03-22-2009, 01:22 PM
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yeah, but it still comes with non greasable joints, so if you can't get that deal again next time.........
Old 03-22-2009, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Raspy
I just bought a complete new factory driveshaft with the joints and the spline, ready to bolt in, for $181. Probably take all of 10 minutes to install it.

Seems like a better choice than replacing the u-joints.
So you replaced crappy joints with another set of crappy joints. Take your shaft to a d-shaft shop and have them replaced with good joints if you do not want to do it yourself.
Old 03-22-2009, 07:07 PM
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OOPS,

While I agree that the new joints would be better if greaseable, I would not call them crappy. In fact I have over 160,000 miles on the stock joints and they show no signs of failure yet.

After I replace the shaft I can rebuild the old one with greaseables, at my leisure, and have it ready to go in when needed. A nice spare, in stock.

I got the shaft from Bremerton Dodge, on line. And it has new yokes and a new spline. Ready to bolt in.

Pretty hard to beat the cost and convenience I'd say. Plus I'll have my next replacement waiting in the shop. What part of that doesn't make sense?
Old 03-22-2009, 08:32 PM
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Wow $181 is pretty cheap considering. I just had my rears replaced by a good driveline shop here in Cleveland with Spicer greasables, and parts plus labor and tax ran $98. If you got a whole new driveline for 83 bucks more, I'd say that's a deal
Old 03-23-2009, 06:11 AM
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160 thou on the original ? sheesh, my first set was done at least a hundred thou earlier than that ! if you get that out of the next set, you have made out quite well.
Old 03-23-2009, 01:22 PM
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Best deal

If you remove the driveline (easy), my local Six-States Distributors will sell you the greasable Spicers AND install them for less than $20/each.

(Found out 5 minutes after I installed $20 Napas myself )
Old 03-23-2009, 06:52 PM
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160k on a stock set. wow that is insane. they must of put a lot of love into those u joints. my original joints only lasted 45k miles and were blown out. went with a set of precision u-joints greaseable. haven't looked back since. that resin is a pain in the butt tho to get out the first time.
Old 03-23-2009, 07:30 PM
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That is the most miles I have ever heard on those joints, that is why I call them crappy. I have 57,000 on mine and I thought I was pushing it. In fact I was thing about changeing them be for I take the trip to Moab, Utah next month to go 4-wheeling.
Old 03-23-2009, 08:14 PM
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thanks for all the info guys!! Now i'm shaking like a dog passing a peach pit out !!! my truck has 114k and no problems with the u-joints. looks like i might want to change them before camping season starts. i pull a 28" toy hauler that is 8k empty and maxes out at 11k. dont want a joint pooping out while towing ( or any other time for that fact)


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