Reading engine codes
#1
Reading engine codes
I got the 1693 code with an OBD 2 reader, where is the connector to read the engine computer.
I work for a trucking company and our tech has the tool to read the computers in the rigs, would this work on a 98' 24v.
Thanks!
I work for a trucking company and our tech has the tool to read the computers in the rigs, would this work on a 98' 24v.
Thanks!
#2
to read codes just shut ur truck off, turn the key on and off three times, then turn it on again... where ur odometer/trip would be, it will show u the code such as p1634 etc.. then when its done reading the codes it will read PDONE... simple as that... thats the same w/ all chryslers..
#4
CEL 2500 2006 under 300 miles
Sheesh. I just got this thing, a quad cab 4WD 2006 2500 stock.
'Still less than 300 miles. Doesn't seem to be running funny, but the little engine thingy on the dash is on. The only thing I notice different is the amp meter keeps flucutating, and sometimes drops if I rev the engine.
I tried the on/off trick with the ingnition, but that doesn't seem to do anyting to the milage display.
I live 100 miles from the dealer, so I have to go there for even a scan, let alone work. Thats about 5 gallons of fuel each way.
I checked all fluid levels, and the belt seems slightly looser than I had my Ford's, but I don't know if that will solve anything . I was told it is supposed to be self tensioning anyway.
I am frustrated.
'Still less than 300 miles. Doesn't seem to be running funny, but the little engine thingy on the dash is on. The only thing I notice different is the amp meter keeps flucutating, and sometimes drops if I rev the engine.
I tried the on/off trick with the ingnition, but that doesn't seem to do anyting to the milage display.
I live 100 miles from the dealer, so I have to go there for even a scan, let alone work. Thats about 5 gallons of fuel each way.
I checked all fluid levels, and the belt seems slightly looser than I had my Ford's, but I don't know if that will solve anything . I was told it is supposed to be self tensioning anyway.
I am frustrated.
#5
Here you go guys... My little web page on how it works for 2000+ year trucks!
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...rror_codes.htm
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...rror_codes.htm
#6
Sheesh. I just got this thing, a quad cab 4WD 2006 2500 stock.
'Still less than 300 miles. Doesn't seem to be running funny, but the little engine thingy on the dash is on. The only thing I notice different is the amp meter keeps flucutating, and sometimes drops if I rev the engine.
I tried the on/off trick with the ingnition, but that doesn't seem to do anyting to the milage display.
I live 100 miles from the dealer, so I have to go there for even a scan, let alone work. Thats about 5 gallons of fuel each way.
I checked all fluid levels, and the belt seems slightly looser than I had my Ford's, but I don't know if that will solve anything . I was told it is supposed to be self tensioning anyway.
I am frustrated.
'Still less than 300 miles. Doesn't seem to be running funny, but the little engine thingy on the dash is on. The only thing I notice different is the amp meter keeps flucutating, and sometimes drops if I rev the engine.
I tried the on/off trick with the ingnition, but that doesn't seem to do anyting to the milage display.
I live 100 miles from the dealer, so I have to go there for even a scan, let alone work. Thats about 5 gallons of fuel each way.
I checked all fluid levels, and the belt seems slightly looser than I had my Ford's, but I don't know if that will solve anything . I was told it is supposed to be self tensioning anyway.
I am frustrated.
The voltmeter fluctuation is normal if where you are located is getting cold out. If the air temp is 59° or lower the grid heaters (air intake heaters) activate (hence the wait to start light). After the engine is started the grid heaters cycle on and off to aid engine warmup and better combustion as the engine warms up. The grid heaters (there are two of them, located on the intake horn, right at the intake manifold) draw 90 amps each, thats a pretty hefty load on the batteries and alternator. That is why the voltmeter fluctuates, and is perfectly normal. The cycling stops when the coolant temp reaches 140° or the truck speed goes over ~25 MPH.
As far as the belt goes, yes it is self tensioning, and it is normal to get a little deflection when you push the belt with your thumb.
Now the engine codes. Take the key and put it in the ignition. Turn the key in the following sequence - ON - OFF - ON - OFF - ON. Leave the key in the on position and watch the odometer. You will see P ECU, P ------, P Done, P PCU, P ------, P Done, then the odometer will revert back to the mileage readout. If there are any codes you will see P XXXX instead of P ------. For example, P 0216.
Since this is dealing with 3rd gen (2003 and up) truck I will move this thread to the appropriate forum for you.
Let us know what codes you come up with.
#7
Here you go guys... My little web page on how it works for 2000+ year trucks!
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...rror_codes.htm
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...rror_codes.htm
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