At about 200 miles, I added about 2 1/2 qts. of Red Line synthetic fluid (same wieght as ref. in the manual).<br>The fluid in the axles were very thick and milky consistency.<br>You probably know what Red Line is like, it's red and runny, but the bottle said it's compatible with all conventional<br>and synthetic fluids.<br> <br>Now, I read that the fluid supposes to below the hole a bit to avoid foaming and overheating.<br><br> <br><br>This is all new to me; I always thought it's supposed to be level with the hole.<br><br>Did I screw up by mixing Red line with what was already there?<br> ???<br>Did I screw up by adding more fluid at all?<br><br>One other thing I noticed when I added the Red Line, there was lots of metal particles on the magnetic drain plugs.<br>It just seemed unusual for just 200 miles.<br><br>I hope I didn't mess up! :'(

 

I'm not sure on the specific fluid that comes in your axle, but as far as I've known, when the fluid is milkly it means water has gotten in there. If you said you saw a lot of metal particles as well, why not just drain all the fluid out and fill fresh new fluid in, to the proper level. Then you won't have to worry ;D

 

My axle fluid appeared milky also from the factory, so I'm assuming it's normal. It was honey colored but seemed to have a milky suspension in it. I added only the same synthetic fluid which I had to special order from the dealer after arguing with the parts department that they couldn't use the same old non-synthetic Dana axle fluid (I still don't think they believe me).<br><br>Personaly I wouldn't mix fluid types. I learned my lesson by mixing some of that new long lasting anti-freeze coolant with the older green stuff and got some nasty looking green sludge. Now the manufacturer says they are compatible, however all mechanics say don't do it. I would error on the side of caution. While I don't think it's very serious, drain them and replace with either one or the other for your peace of mind!

 

Drain it all and replace it. Don't mix that stuff. I like Redline products; but at least for a while, I'd put in what DC says to use. Then, if something does go sour, and warranty issues arise, your covered. I thought the factory stuff was synthetic. I can go out and look up the PN# of what they gave me to top my diff's up. It was in the owners manual I think too. I too had the &quot;mud&quot; on the drain plug.

The factory stuff is honey colored and has the consistency of milky but isn't milky. With that GL5 stink.

If you mix oil and water it has the consistency of a thick chocolate milkshake; been there done that. Even in the crankcase; 5 gallons of it - small block chevy. Took a quart of diesel fuel to mix with it to loosen it enough to pump it out. I sunk one of my dad's speedboats as a teeny bopper.

 

Yeah, it wasn't milky color just milky consistency. Actually more like honey. Greenish honey colored. Looked like conventional gear oil, but I guess it's hard to tell it apart from synthetic. So to drain it I have to unbolt the cover and let it rip? [undecided]<br>That'll be a big mess. I guess I'll buy the fluid and take it to a shop to have it drained and filled again. I had a feeling I shouldn't mess with it. That Red Line was pretty expensive too (something like $10 a quart <br>Any idea what the Mopar synthetic oil costs for these axles?

 

Not sure about the price, but at the dealer, the cost will probably approach the Redline cost. Oh well.<br><br>Shouldn't be a big deal to change it at home. There is plenty of room under there on a 4x4. Its been a while since I was under the truck back there, but I think all you need to do is loosen some bolts and let it drain into a pan. Maybe someone will chime in if they think you need a new gasket or maybe reuse the original.<br><br>When adding the new stuff, tighten all those bolts, and squirt the new lube into the hole. Stop just before the level gets to the hole.

 

I wish it was the same price as redline! I paid $16 - 17$ for 1 quart of the synthetic from the dealer. :'(