lastcall190

I have a close to stock truck, finished my 2micron setup, and am looking to finish it off with a Raptor 100gph pump to replace the stock canister pump. The install looks very straightforward from what I've found via the search, but the only thing that is concerning me is the stock output pressure of the Raptor. I know it is adjustable with that screw and jam nut thing, but without a gauge at the moment I figure I'm just walking around in the dark. Anyone know what the Raptor is set to straight out of the box? I have a FP gauge on my to-do list as well... Thanks for the help.

-J

BlueOx1

I thought they came preset at 15 psi That's what my 150 said in the instructions.

lastcall190

Thank you, that helps.

-J

randallp84

I agree with BlueOx. I don't have a gauge on mine either, but I do have a rail pressure gauge.

rip 112

My ad100 reads 15psi as well, so if you see 14-16 you are good to go.

1-2-3

I just did my Raptor install. The instructions say to remove the filter can, then remove the stock LP and replace that with an adapter. After going thru that, I would leave the filter in place, drop the starter, remove the LP and add the adapter. Mine had the factory LP, not the in tank LP. My kit came with all new 1/2" fuel line, so the next tricky thing was the connection to the fuel tank. I left it and the bed in place, removed the tire, removed the screws holding the filler neck to the bed, and removed the body brace in front of the wheel well. Then used two small screwdrivers to pop the factory fuel line connector off, removed the blue clip. then installed the new fuel line. Mounting the pump and routing the wires and lines was the easy part.

Glacier sells a fancy dancy 1/2" Tee to get into the 1/2" line for a fuel pressure gauge. Makes the gauge install a snap.

lastcall190

Thank you all for the input. The local shop only had a 150 Raptor, not a 100. I held off because I had heard the 150 "recommended" an upgraded draw straw (though other places have told me to upgrade it from stock regardless). I have a regular cab and somehow have a birds eye view of the supply line so that seems pretty easy to get. Was I an idiot for passing on the 150?

1-2-3, funny you mention the adapter to T into the line for fuel pressure. I actually ordered the 3/8 version from GDP (with some other stuff) to tap into the line from my CAT filter to the CP3 and I'm gonna get a reading for my (eventual) fuel pressure gauge. Thanks for the install pointers. Do you have a FP gauge at the moment or nope?

-J

1-2-3

No gauge yet buy I'm not driving it alot till I do. Glacier Diesel has free shipping on the 100 right now and their kit comes with the big line kit. It's the same price about everywhere.

lastcall190

Yes that's what I've noticed, I guess Pureflow has a MAP pricing policy on it. Guess I'll grab the 100 from GDP and take some time next week to install. Thanks

-J

1-2-3

Get the 1/2" T from them to drop in the line and be ready for your gauge. And don't pull the filter outa there.

lastcall190

Well I got my Raptor yesterday, and installed it today. I would've taken pictures, and I always have that ambition but things typically end up not going as smooth as I hope so if I had a camera it would probably end up just thrown across the garage. I'll just give a quick rundown and my impression of the product.

I got the RP100 and it's apparently redesigned and has all quick connects now. Whereas before you would thread the quick connect adapter to the hose fitting and then click it on to the feed line, now you get preassembled hoses. You get a healthy portion of hose. The fitting on the back of the filter canister is now a quick connect as well (90*). The fittings for the Raptor itself are some type of fancy quick connect that is unable to be disconnected without a little tool, I can't remember the name and the instructions are in my truck now. I am split on whether or not I like these new fittings versus the old pushlock stuff. On one hand it makes assembly an absolute BREEZE. But on the other hand, you are kind of limited in your approach to connecting the lines. What I mean by that is, on my regular cab I couldn't for the life of me find a suitable spot on the inside of the frame to mount it (anyone have a good spot??). So I had to mount on the outside and give myself tons of slack so that I didn't kink the lines (they are good now). It's pretty well hidden, and I needed it hooked up. What sucks is that I had to come in and basically pull a 180* with the hoses since the IN/OUT ports are on the opposite logical sides (IN faces the motor OUT faces the tank). That being said, I could imagine a truck config with more frame space could find a better location, but I am happy with where mine is. The wiring is so **** simple, probably because there is none. Everything is plug and play, and the hardest part is running the wires. After zip tying everything in place I'd say the install took a few hours, at least 1 of which was just finding a f*(#)^* spot for the pump. I am incredibly satisfied with this piece, largely in part due to the fact that I didn't have to buy anything else to install it. Instructions are IMO very easy. Had to bump the starter a few times, then it fired right up like it normally does. My gauge isn't here yet, and I don't really hot rod it much, but I feel better knowing the canister mounted russian roulette special is outta there. Thanks to those who gave some pointers on this and Glacier for the good price.

-J

bemhoff

I did the same set-up about 4 months ago. Raptor 100 and added a 2 micron set-up. I didn't have any gauges then so I used an ashcroft certified pressure calibrator I brought home from work, when I first started the pump I had 15.42 Psi at the outlet of my 2 micron filter. I increased it to 17.5 Psi and have been running it like that since then. About 2 months ago I installed gauges and it is still around 17.5 Psi at idle and drops to about 15 when I get on it. The only thing I noticed in the last couple of weeks when I start the truck at times it sounds like the pump is loading and unloading. My pressure is steady at about 17.5 Psi but I never heard the loading and unloading before. Hope this may help.

lastcall190

Thank you, yes it does sound like we have similar pump/filter setups. I am looking to add a BF1212 before the pump, but with the severe lack of space I really don't know where the hell I would put it.

Little ignorant here, but what kind of programmer is the Van AAken? 15psi at WOT seems pretty good, I was worried about dropping to single digits with my stock pump. Thanks for the input.

-J

lastcall190

Back to the top... how were you guys sealing the threads on the pressure sensor for the FP gauge? Just installed mine but it's leaking. I took it back off, threw some Permatex #2 on the threads, tightened it pretty good, and am letting it sit overnight. Any other suggestions? Thanks

-J

rip 112

teflon tape for me with no problems