Question On Dynatrac Conversion
#1
Question On Dynatrac Conversion
Does anyone have a pic of there truck with the lockouts installed ?? I just wondered how the old hub cover worked or if people modified it to work with the lock-outs. I just dont know if I want to spend that kind of money for lockouts, I hate the front end turning all the time though whether locked in or not. Not to mention that when you replace the bearings it is about two hundred bucks a side instead of buying a couple of bearings because of the sealed hub.
#2
I have converted my about a year ago. I like the mod and think it was the best mod. I have had a lot of use out of the option to use low range without 4wd. The hubs do stick out, however that never caused a problem. The stock caps will need to be cut to allow the hub to stick out. The main thing I like is these hubs are real built. Makes the stock hubs look real weak.
#3
I have the dynatrac and like it a lot. I think the OEM 4wd system is very weak with the 3 piece axle. Since I am old school, I never have trusted the dash light, and there have been a few occasions where the light said, "your in", I was not, resulting in a bunch of damage to my radiator (twice) after it smacked the fan. Now I really do not trust the 4wd light, but since I manually lock the hubs, I don't have to worry about it. Also, as you mention, the freewheeling front wheels don't hurt either. I agree, it is expensive. I just left the hub cover off.
#6
I have been away for a bit, missing my fix of DTR. Now I am back. Day 1 of a 10 day trip, I was crossing a dry, very soft sand riverbed in Mexico. I put it in 4wd and the light went on, good to go. As I entered the sand, the truck started to buck wildly, so I added a bit more throttle. Truck went crazy. During the bouncing, the engine moved so far forward that the fan slammed into the radiator, tearing out a salad plate sized piece along with a circle of slashes. The fan was bent double. I was not a happy camper. It took almost two days to do a repair, but we got it done and finished the trip. What happened is that the vacuum actuator did not slide the collar enough to engage the axles, but the light went on anyway. The first time I thought it was a fluke, then it happened again during another trip, less damage though. This gets old fast, mechanical breakdowns in the middle or nowhere are a real bummer, so I changed to a manual system and got rid of the weak 2 piece passenger axle. Expensive, but such is the price of peace of mind. The bright side is I am really good at field repair of fans and radiators.
#7
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From: somewhere in northwestern ohio....Mansfield, Oh
What year and kind of truck was this on ? This could not happen on a 3rd generation Dodge Cummins since they only have one form of 4x4 engagement on the transfer case and it is electric our manual . For and engine to move that much I would be looking hard at all engine and transmission mounts . I was in a Chevy Blazer one time getting on it hard and a fan blade came up through the hood . We had been working on it just minutes before laying over top of it revving it up so it was not pleasant to watch . I have change quite a few of the rubber mounts under the transfer case on the older models . I have had that happen to me a couple of times but there was always another contributing factor . On the problems I have seen with the electric and vacuum shift almost all been confined to the front axle going in were as you said the light does go out and you are still in two wheel drive , can't happen on our trucks . Between electric and manual hubs I got to say for me I have had more problem getting the manuals to engage then the electric . If I got up and kicked them in before I needed them the manuals eventually went in and if I maintained them like I should they would work even better . Maintaining the aluminum bolts and the steel hub could get expensive and be a real pain , another story .
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#8
See sig about my truck. I have changed the engine mounts. I added a 3/16" thick x 4"dia "washer" to the front of the mount, preventing the rubber from wrapping around the mounting bolt. I also added retaining straps to the transmission, so the drivetrain cannot lunge forward. So far, so good.
I have had zero problems with the Warn hubs, although I know what you mean. My '62 Chev surburban hubs were a real hassle, my '52 ******, worse.
The peace of mind is that when the hubs are engaged, I know I am in 4wd. To find out if you are in or not too late is not OK. We are all a product of our past experiences. As you see, I have had problems, so I have had to make a change. I know my hassles may have been be unique, bummer for me, but hey, I had to make a change. You play, you pay.
I have had zero problems with the Warn hubs, although I know what you mean. My '62 Chev surburban hubs were a real hassle, my '52 ******, worse.
The peace of mind is that when the hubs are engaged, I know I am in 4wd. To find out if you are in or not too late is not OK. We are all a product of our past experiences. As you see, I have had problems, so I have had to make a change. I know my hassles may have been be unique, bummer for me, but hey, I had to make a change. You play, you pay.
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